Normal ride height only fault - air compressed issue resolved
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Normal ride height only fault - air compressed issue resolved
For all of you that have intermittent air suspension issues, i.e. “Normal ride height only”, I found a solution that appears to have worked for me. *First a little background…
*
About a month ago, my wife’s car (2007 LR3 HSE) began getting the “normal ride height only” fault just after the car was started. *It didn’t happen all the time, but the problem got progressively worse over the course of a month. *As the ambient temperature cooled off below 50 degrees the problem temporarily went away, but came right back as the temp got back to 65 or so. *I did extensive research and found several possible causes:
*
• In pre-2007 LR3’s, the compressor design was faulty in that an exhaust valve would stick open. *To my understanding this was corrected in the 2007+ cars as well as replacement compressor assemblies.
• Compressor age – they only last so long. *$500 replacement, parts only.
• Air dryer issues. *I live in S. Florida and the high humidity can pre-maturely exhaust the desiccant in the air dryer - $70 replacement part. *I chose to chase this option…
*
I called the local Land Rover dealer to discuss symptoms and possible solutions. *They told me it was easier to replace the entire compressor assembly to the tune of $1200. *They quoted me $550 just to change out the dryer. *No thanks. *I found an online Land Rover dealer that sells genuine parts and discount prices. *www.landrovermerriamparts.com. The Air Dryer cost was $70 plus $9.95 shipping. *
*
Removing the compressor assembly was a PITA. *Here’s a basic step by step but by no means all inclusive.
• Remove outer plastic cover. *5 or 6 clips and three 10mm bolts
• Disconnect 2 electrical plugs
• Take bottom 2 bracket bolts off (10mm) and loosen the third 3 or 4 turns. *The third bolt is located in the front of the assembly above the dryer. *Very difficult to see. *You can only get about 1/16 of a turn at a time. *This step is needed to rotate the entire bracket down later for access to an allen screw.
• Remove the 3 allen screws that attach the compressor assembly to the bracket. *The bottom one is simple, the two on top are extremely difficult to get to. *I had to cut a allen key to about half the size (both ends) to gain access to them. *For the upper most allen key, rotate the entire bracket down to get better access to it, but its still a pain to loosen.
• Remove the 2 air lines to the compressor and the blue line from the dryer. *You need to push on the base while pulling the hose out to disconnect
• Once the compressor assembly is out, removing the dryer is simple. *A single Phillips screw, disconnect the red air line and twist the assembly about 90 degrees and pull.
• Install new dryer. *Be sure to replace O-ring supplied in the kit. *It goes on the compressor assembly where the dryer was disconnected. *
• The remainder of the install is the reverse of the removal. *
*
I took the old dryer apart and the desiccant was discolored and caked up against the outlet, almost completely blocking flow to the air suspension. *In my opinion, it’s worth the $70 gamble to try this before you spend the money to replace an air compressor that may still be working properly. *If you are mechanically inclined and have a bit of patience, you can save over $1000. *Whole job took me 1.5 hours, but if I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour knowing how everything comes apart. *I’m surprised that Land Rover does not recommend replacing the dryer every couple years. *They should know that dryer desiccant doesn’t last forever, especially in humid environments.
*
Before the change, the air compressor would run about 2 minutes then give the suspension fault. *After the change, the compressor ran about 20-30 seconds with no faults. *That supports the idea that the dryer was blocking flow from the compressor to the reservoir. *I raised to full height and the compressor was able to keep with no issues.
*
Hope this helps.
*
About a month ago, my wife’s car (2007 LR3 HSE) began getting the “normal ride height only” fault just after the car was started. *It didn’t happen all the time, but the problem got progressively worse over the course of a month. *As the ambient temperature cooled off below 50 degrees the problem temporarily went away, but came right back as the temp got back to 65 or so. *I did extensive research and found several possible causes:
*
• In pre-2007 LR3’s, the compressor design was faulty in that an exhaust valve would stick open. *To my understanding this was corrected in the 2007+ cars as well as replacement compressor assemblies.
• Compressor age – they only last so long. *$500 replacement, parts only.
• Air dryer issues. *I live in S. Florida and the high humidity can pre-maturely exhaust the desiccant in the air dryer - $70 replacement part. *I chose to chase this option…
*
I called the local Land Rover dealer to discuss symptoms and possible solutions. *They told me it was easier to replace the entire compressor assembly to the tune of $1200. *They quoted me $550 just to change out the dryer. *No thanks. *I found an online Land Rover dealer that sells genuine parts and discount prices. *www.landrovermerriamparts.com. The Air Dryer cost was $70 plus $9.95 shipping. *
*
Removing the compressor assembly was a PITA. *Here’s a basic step by step but by no means all inclusive.
• Remove outer plastic cover. *5 or 6 clips and three 10mm bolts
• Disconnect 2 electrical plugs
• Take bottom 2 bracket bolts off (10mm) and loosen the third 3 or 4 turns. *The third bolt is located in the front of the assembly above the dryer. *Very difficult to see. *You can only get about 1/16 of a turn at a time. *This step is needed to rotate the entire bracket down later for access to an allen screw.
• Remove the 3 allen screws that attach the compressor assembly to the bracket. *The bottom one is simple, the two on top are extremely difficult to get to. *I had to cut a allen key to about half the size (both ends) to gain access to them. *For the upper most allen key, rotate the entire bracket down to get better access to it, but its still a pain to loosen.
• Remove the 2 air lines to the compressor and the blue line from the dryer. *You need to push on the base while pulling the hose out to disconnect
• Once the compressor assembly is out, removing the dryer is simple. *A single Phillips screw, disconnect the red air line and twist the assembly about 90 degrees and pull.
• Install new dryer. *Be sure to replace O-ring supplied in the kit. *It goes on the compressor assembly where the dryer was disconnected. *
• The remainder of the install is the reverse of the removal. *
*
I took the old dryer apart and the desiccant was discolored and caked up against the outlet, almost completely blocking flow to the air suspension. *In my opinion, it’s worth the $70 gamble to try this before you spend the money to replace an air compressor that may still be working properly. *If you are mechanically inclined and have a bit of patience, you can save over $1000. *Whole job took me 1.5 hours, but if I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour knowing how everything comes apart. *I’m surprised that Land Rover does not recommend replacing the dryer every couple years. *They should know that dryer desiccant doesn’t last forever, especially in humid environments.
*
Before the change, the air compressor would run about 2 minutes then give the suspension fault. *After the change, the compressor ran about 20-30 seconds with no faults. *That supports the idea that the dryer was blocking flow from the compressor to the reservoir. *I raised to full height and the compressor was able to keep with no issues.
*
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
I was too cheap to take it in. The local dealer didn't impress me with their suggestions, but you are right. They most certainly would have been able to pinpoint the problem. My issue wan intermittent so I'm not even sure they could have diagnosed unless it happened at that time. Thanks for the advice
Overlanding
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 15
Likes: 4
I can second your experience. I live next to the ocean and had the same thing happen. "you can spend $1100 for the whole compressor or gamble $500 that the drier is the problem". I think I won that gamble - for now.
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Rovin4life,
I do have a question for you. While I was under the car I didn't see an inlet filter for the compressor. I did see the two lines going into the compressor but I didnt bother tracing them out. Does this assembly have an inlet filter and, if so, where can I find it? I would bet that it is dirty by now. Probably not too expensive to fix either.
Any info would be appreciated.
I do have a question for you. While I was under the car I didn't see an inlet filter for the compressor. I did see the two lines going into the compressor but I didnt bother tracing them out. Does this assembly have an inlet filter and, if so, where can I find it? I would bet that it is dirty by now. Probably not too expensive to fix either.
Any info would be appreciated.
Overlanding
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 20
Likes: 2
From: La Quinta CA
rovenforlife
Left hand side of the truck as you sit in the driver's seat. open rear door remove left hand tail light behind that you will see what looks like a rubber louver.
Remove the louver get a flash light look inside you'll see one of the lines you saw connected to a filter canister its held in place by a bracket push up should come right up off the bracket
pull it to you once you can see it remove the cover you'll see a foam filter inside when I removed it the filter disintegrated to dust.
found some material to replace it with reassembled no issues
Left hand side of the truck as you sit in the driver's seat. open rear door remove left hand tail light behind that you will see what looks like a rubber louver.
Remove the louver get a flash light look inside you'll see one of the lines you saw connected to a filter canister its held in place by a bracket push up should come right up off the bracket
pull it to you once you can see it remove the cover you'll see a foam filter inside when I removed it the filter disintegrated to dust.
found some material to replace it with reassembled no issues
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Suspension fault
For all of you that have intermittent air suspension issues, i.e. “Normal ride height only”, I found a solution that appears to have worked for me. *First a little background…
*
About a month ago, my wife’s car (2007 LR3 HSE) began getting the “normal ride height only” fault just after the car was started. *It didn’t happen all the time, but the problem got progressively worse over the course of a month. *As the ambient temperature cooled off below 50 degrees the problem temporarily went away, but came right back as the temp got back to 65 or so. *I did extensive research and found several possible causes:
*
• In pre-2007 LR3’s, the compressor design was faulty in that an exhaust valve would stick open. *To my understanding this was corrected in the 2007+ cars as well as replacement compressor assemblies.
• Compressor age – they only last so long. *$500 replacement, parts only.
• Air dryer issues. *I live in S. Florida and the high humidity can pre-maturely exhaust the desiccant in the air dryer - $70 replacement part. *I chose to chase this option…
*
I called the local Land Rover dealer to discuss symptoms and possible solutions. *They told me it was easier to replace the entire compressor assembly to the tune of $1200. *They quoted me $550 just to change out the dryer. *No thanks. *I found an online Land Rover dealer that sells genuine parts and discount prices. *www.landrovermerriamparts.com. The Air Dryer cost was $70 plus $9.95 shipping. *
*
Removing the compressor assembly was a PITA. *Here’s a basic step by step but by no means all inclusive.
• Remove outer plastic cover. *5 or 6 clips and three 10mm bolts
• Disconnect 2 electrical plugs
• Take bottom 2 bracket bolts off (10mm) and loosen the third 3 or 4 turns. *The third bolt is located in the front of the assembly above the dryer. *Very difficult to see. *You can only get about 1/16 of a turn at a time. *This step is needed to rotate the entire bracket down later for access to an allen screw.
• Remove the 3 allen screws that attach the compressor assembly to the bracket. *The bottom one is simple, the two on top are extremely difficult to get to. *I had to cut a allen key to about half the size (both ends) to gain access to them. *For the upper most allen key, rotate the entire bracket down to get better access to it, but its still a pain to loosen.
• Remove the 2 air lines to the compressor and the blue line from the dryer. *You need to push on the base while pulling the hose out to disconnect
• Once the compressor assembly is out, removing the dryer is simple. *A single Phillips screw, disconnect the red air line and twist the assembly about 90 degrees and pull.
• Install new dryer. *Be sure to replace O-ring supplied in the kit. *It goes on the compressor assembly where the dryer was disconnected. *
• The remainder of the install is the reverse of the removal. *
*
I took the old dryer apart and the desiccant was discolored and caked up against the outlet, almost completely blocking flow to the air suspension. *In my opinion, it’s worth the $70 gamble to try this before you spend the money to replace an air compressor that may still be working properly. *If you are mechanically inclined and have a bit of patience, you can save over $1000. *Whole job took me 1.5 hours, but if I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour knowing how everything comes apart. *I’m surprised that Land Rover does not recommend replacing the dryer every couple years. *They should know that dryer desiccant doesn’t last forever, especially in humid environments.
*
Before the change, the air compressor would run about 2 minutes then give the suspension fault. *After the change, the compressor ran about 20-30 seconds with no faults. *That supports the idea that the dryer was blocking flow from the compressor to the reservoir. *I raised to full height and the compressor was able to keep with no issues.
*
Hope this helps.
*
About a month ago, my wife’s car (2007 LR3 HSE) began getting the “normal ride height only” fault just after the car was started. *It didn’t happen all the time, but the problem got progressively worse over the course of a month. *As the ambient temperature cooled off below 50 degrees the problem temporarily went away, but came right back as the temp got back to 65 or so. *I did extensive research and found several possible causes:
*
• In pre-2007 LR3’s, the compressor design was faulty in that an exhaust valve would stick open. *To my understanding this was corrected in the 2007+ cars as well as replacement compressor assemblies.
• Compressor age – they only last so long. *$500 replacement, parts only.
• Air dryer issues. *I live in S. Florida and the high humidity can pre-maturely exhaust the desiccant in the air dryer - $70 replacement part. *I chose to chase this option…
*
I called the local Land Rover dealer to discuss symptoms and possible solutions. *They told me it was easier to replace the entire compressor assembly to the tune of $1200. *They quoted me $550 just to change out the dryer. *No thanks. *I found an online Land Rover dealer that sells genuine parts and discount prices. *www.landrovermerriamparts.com. The Air Dryer cost was $70 plus $9.95 shipping. *
*
Removing the compressor assembly was a PITA. *Here’s a basic step by step but by no means all inclusive.
• Remove outer plastic cover. *5 or 6 clips and three 10mm bolts
• Disconnect 2 electrical plugs
• Take bottom 2 bracket bolts off (10mm) and loosen the third 3 or 4 turns. *The third bolt is located in the front of the assembly above the dryer. *Very difficult to see. *You can only get about 1/16 of a turn at a time. *This step is needed to rotate the entire bracket down later for access to an allen screw.
• Remove the 3 allen screws that attach the compressor assembly to the bracket. *The bottom one is simple, the two on top are extremely difficult to get to. *I had to cut a allen key to about half the size (both ends) to gain access to them. *For the upper most allen key, rotate the entire bracket down to get better access to it, but its still a pain to loosen.
• Remove the 2 air lines to the compressor and the blue line from the dryer. *You need to push on the base while pulling the hose out to disconnect
• Once the compressor assembly is out, removing the dryer is simple. *A single Phillips screw, disconnect the red air line and twist the assembly about 90 degrees and pull.
• Install new dryer. *Be sure to replace O-ring supplied in the kit. *It goes on the compressor assembly where the dryer was disconnected. *
• The remainder of the install is the reverse of the removal. *
*
I took the old dryer apart and the desiccant was discolored and caked up against the outlet, almost completely blocking flow to the air suspension. *In my opinion, it’s worth the $70 gamble to try this before you spend the money to replace an air compressor that may still be working properly. *If you are mechanically inclined and have a bit of patience, you can save over $1000. *Whole job took me 1.5 hours, but if I had to do it again I could do it in under an hour knowing how everything comes apart. *I’m surprised that Land Rover does not recommend replacing the dryer every couple years. *They should know that dryer desiccant doesn’t last forever, especially in humid environments.
*
Before the change, the air compressor would run about 2 minutes then give the suspension fault. *After the change, the compressor ran about 20-30 seconds with no faults. *That supports the idea that the dryer was blocking flow from the compressor to the reservoir. *I raised to full height and the compressor was able to keep with no issues.
*
Hope this helps.
hey. I’m currently having a similar issue. I live in a humid climate and my 08 LR3 has been doing the same thing. I hear what sounds like something working hard at the rear left wheel axial then I get the fault normal height and the sound goes away (as you can tell I am not a mechanic)
wondering if it’s the compressor. Or the air dryer as you mentioned in your post.
(slight background- we had our car in Canada and now it’s in a warm climate. And this only started here. We did get these warnings in Canada when the temp went below -10. But letting it run and warm up before driving and it never happened)
Any advice? And if it is the compressor or air dryer. Do you recall the part #?
thanks again
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,617
Likes: 265
From: Melbourne, Australia.
join the discovery3/4 facebook group and in the files section there are manuals and repair guides for everything.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 445
Likes: 31
From: Long Beach, CA
Old post but helpful info. My LR3 has just started with this warning, will do some diag next week to verify the issue. Down time is a factor for me and as much as I want to rebuild the one I have I may just order a new one then rebuild the original one when I have time. With a 3 month old, 3 year old, almost 12 year old and a home expansion and remodel starting in a month I need all the extra time I can get.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
