Great to hear vetalbig!!!

 

Hey guys,

Wow, quite the thread the follow!

I too had my t-stat replaced. Also had P420 codes that went away and then the 2096 that won't go away.

I understand you need the IID to properly clear codes and settings, but any ideas what finally fixed it?

Thanks!

 

short post. you may have missed it

 

But was it just the reset? Or was the problem fixed through one of the other fixes (O2, cats, etc), not knowing the repair worked because the codes weren't reset?

Sorry of this question doesn't make sense, bit of a novice. Thanks for your help.

 

The answer is really in post #84.

If you remove the throttle body, odds are that you'll move the butterfly around. In my case I did so to clean the carbon buildup. Because the truck is throttle by wire - more than likely the computer's understanding of the plate position no longer matched up the plate's position after it's been moved. By resetting the adaptations, it also tells the computer to reset the throttle body information. That's what did it.

The issue that was so confusing was that only one bank was registering the lean condition, when in reality, both banks were seeing the changed airflows as well as the fact that is still WAS METERED AIR! That's the truly frustrating thing because logic doesn't really apply to this error code.

There you have it.

 

AtlantaViking & Vetalbig... thank you guys so much for sticking with fixing the P2096 issue and posting your results! I am experiencing the same issue and have taken the vehicle to a couple local independent shops without any success. I personally replaced the MAF, 02 sensors and cleaned the throttle body just to have the CE P2096 code return, though I have been resetting the code with a generic OBD2 reader. Now I know that only the IIDTOOL will fully reset this code due to cars system has to re-learn where the throttle body plate zero position is. Think due to the cost of the IIDTool is $500+, I will try and find a shop that has this tool and just pay the fee to re-calibrate my system. Thanks again!

 

Hey Carl6405 - glad you found it helpful. These forums and threads are great for the DIY'ers who don't want to be forced to go to the dealer when, in many cases, the solutions are out there.

I will say though, that if you poke around here long enough you'll see MANY folks recommending just buying the IIDtool. Honestly, I went back and forth many times on it because it's not cheap but I do think that if you need more than 1 service visit for anything in the future it will likely pay for itself in both time and actual money savings. My 2 cents for sure - so good luck either way and glad you got some useful info from this thread!

 

I second the motion....I push the GAP tool on so many people you'd think I work for them, but I'm just trying to help. It's as basic to the LR3 tool kit as a flat head screwdriver. I'm not even much of a wrench-turner, but I would not want to go camping/off-roading/overlanding without my IIDTool. It has saved my **** many times. Also, it helps troubleshoot issues even if you are going to take it into a mechanic. You can save them poking around and charging you a diag fee.

 

Gap tool and a flashlight! Two critical necessities.

 

I’ve used GAP tool between my LR3 and my wife’s LR4 countless times since we purchased it last year. Definitely worth the money and hey Christmas is right around the corner! Get those gift carts and buy yours!
BTW P2096 never returned. One thing that I was grateful for having IID tool was my instrument cluster started flickering and going blank here recently. Quote from dealer was $1400, I purchased used cluster ($50 on eBay) and used IID tool to program it, another major issue fixed!
And of course hats off to AtlantaViking his contribution to this thread was priceless!