Poly Bush for LR3
Got the drivers front done. Upper bushings, ball joints, link pin and sway bar bushing looked good. I thought I was on the home stretch, but when I got to the passengers side, the lower rear bolt moved 1/2" then stopped dead in is tracks. Had to cut it. Plus the upper bushings were going, the link pin was shot and the upper ball joint was starting to go. Looks like I'll be doing the entire front as well. This has turned in to quite a project.
Last edited by metallicpea; Jan 7, 2019 at 12:41 PM.
Yep, sometimes. I think this has snowballed more than most. I can't wait to get to the end, but here I am waiting for parts, again...
So, after driving this thing with the full Polybush kit in for the last 2 months I wanted to report my findings and give someone else considering this my full feedback.
I really don't like how my LR3 rides anymore. It has degraded perhaps the best feature of this vehicle - the comfortable, smooth quiet ride. It is just overly harsh and has turned my Rover into a rattle trap. The ride is so harsh I have new rattles from all over, but especially the roof.
Previously I was on completely stock suspension at 125k miles. As far as I can tell, every bushing, ball joint, arm, pin and hardware were OEM. Likely the front lowers had been replaced at the dealer before 70k (both front lower rear bushings still had their oil in them) but I can't be certain of that. The only bushing that was really completely shot for me was the rear upper rear bushing - it was toast on both sides and causing severe inner edge tire wear. This bushing is different than all the others as it has a double tapered thick metal sleeve and tapered rubber on both sides - I didn't like this design at all.
If I were to go back in time and do this again with the knowledge I have now I would do it completely differently - both for effort and ride quality. The cost would be higher, but I wouldn't hesitate.
I would buy all 8 control arm assemblies as OEM or Original Equipment from the UK. Not Land Rover parts, but from the manufacturers who supply Land Rover. Then I would replace 2 pairs of bushings from those complete assemblies. I would replace the rear upper rear bushing with polybush and I would replace the front lower rear bushing with Meyle HD (this is a rubber but not oil filled bushing). Any other parts like the rear outer bushings or front ball joints or link pins I would replace as needed with Lemforder. As for hardware, I would use the Atlantic British hardware kits except for the rear captured nuts and the bolts/nuts for the rear upper rear and front upper (front and rear). I would use OEM parts here as they are hard to get to and would like the best possible chance of getting them out in the future. At the very least, I would not use the aftermarket captured nuts - those were junk.
This would keep the overall hours way down on this job and I think would give the best possible ride quality without having to touch any bushing again for well over 100k.
I have put a ton of work and thought into this and would be happy to give more feedback to anyone considering this. I researched quite a bit beforehand, but I ended up going down the wrong path anyway, so maybe this will help the next guy.
I really don't like how my LR3 rides anymore. It has degraded perhaps the best feature of this vehicle - the comfortable, smooth quiet ride. It is just overly harsh and has turned my Rover into a rattle trap. The ride is so harsh I have new rattles from all over, but especially the roof.
Previously I was on completely stock suspension at 125k miles. As far as I can tell, every bushing, ball joint, arm, pin and hardware were OEM. Likely the front lowers had been replaced at the dealer before 70k (both front lower rear bushings still had their oil in them) but I can't be certain of that. The only bushing that was really completely shot for me was the rear upper rear bushing - it was toast on both sides and causing severe inner edge tire wear. This bushing is different than all the others as it has a double tapered thick metal sleeve and tapered rubber on both sides - I didn't like this design at all.
If I were to go back in time and do this again with the knowledge I have now I would do it completely differently - both for effort and ride quality. The cost would be higher, but I wouldn't hesitate.
I would buy all 8 control arm assemblies as OEM or Original Equipment from the UK. Not Land Rover parts, but from the manufacturers who supply Land Rover. Then I would replace 2 pairs of bushings from those complete assemblies. I would replace the rear upper rear bushing with polybush and I would replace the front lower rear bushing with Meyle HD (this is a rubber but not oil filled bushing). Any other parts like the rear outer bushings or front ball joints or link pins I would replace as needed with Lemforder. As for hardware, I would use the Atlantic British hardware kits except for the rear captured nuts and the bolts/nuts for the rear upper rear and front upper (front and rear). I would use OEM parts here as they are hard to get to and would like the best possible chance of getting them out in the future. At the very least, I would not use the aftermarket captured nuts - those were junk.
This would keep the overall hours way down on this job and I think would give the best possible ride quality without having to touch any bushing again for well over 100k.
I have put a ton of work and thought into this and would be happy to give more feedback to anyone considering this. I researched quite a bit beforehand, but I ended up going down the wrong path anyway, so maybe this will help the next guy.
I would never put poly busing on any sorta of truck/off-road vehicle myself. Its been proven that the poly, being stiffer, puts more stress on the frame and components. Poly is for racing stuff on the track, thats it.
I did the math. If I decide to keep this thing, it will cost me $529 to restore the OEM bushings. $237 for the bushings. $115 for the alignment and $140 for machine shop to press them in.
If I keep it I will have to do this. I will need to make a decision in the next few months. I'm torn between keeping my Jeep Wrangler LJ and starting the constant rust war or selling it and my LR3 to buy a new Wrangler. So many pros and cons...
If I keep it I will have to do this. I will need to make a decision in the next few months. I'm torn between keeping my Jeep Wrangler LJ and starting the constant rust war or selling it and my LR3 to buy a new Wrangler. So many pros and cons...
I don't understand the poly love. Atlantic British seems to really promote the poly bushings, as do other retailers. However, I don't recall anyone that is happy after they get them fitted on their trucks. Noisy, harsh riding, I have never seen a post of anyone liking them. And they are more expensive. I don't get it. Phil
2005 LR3 HSE HD
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
2005 LR3 HSE HD
2006 Range Rover Sport
2010 Range Rover Sport
I have to admit I don't see the attraction of a more firm ride. The thing that separates the LR3/4 RRS and FFRR from the usual crowd of other trucks is the ride. So many who have been in mine say it rides so much better/smoother than their F150 or whatever truck they have.
I get that some may want a sharper response in the handling in something like a RRS SC, but in the LR3/4 that is not exactly designed for cornering on rails, it seems to go against the grain. Normal driving, I am very happy with the ride.
I get that some may want a sharper response in the handling in something like a RRS SC, but in the LR3/4 that is not exactly designed for cornering on rails, it seems to go against the grain. Normal driving, I am very happy with the ride.


