Do people really ever replace the rears???

 

My logic was to do them all as the truck I’m going through has 200k on the clock. Also planning to do control arms, all the fluids, zip kit, solenoids, filter, trans pan, pads, rotors, plugs, and hoses. Than add all the off road goodies.


Bilstein looks like it would be $650-700 for the fronts. Aside from being Bilstein what is the benefit?

 

So if the rears aren't leaking you would leave them be? Rather than be proactive?

 

I have just not heard reports of rear shocks giving up. Granted, high mileage examples are becoming more abundant out there but last year talking to the local indie shop (pretty big one up here) they said they never do the rears....same story at the dealer.

My theory is that the rear shocks are more robust and not loaded quite like the fronts...but data is anecdotal at best.

 

The left front bag was so weak it blew out loading on the trailer. So I was just going on the theory they are all probably junk

 

If I was doing work back there and did not want to dive in later I would just get em done. If anything, at 200k the absorber part is pretty worn out.

 

My thoughts as well.

I’m debating on doing hub bearings while I’m in there as well.

 

I went with new front struts from Detroit Axel on ebay for my 2006 LR3. They appeared to be identical to the Arnott struts, were very high quality, and offer a 10 year warranty. I think they were $350 delivered and I didn't have any issues with the install. It included new brass voss connectors that were actually better than the OEM. They've held air for about 6 months with no issues, including 2 weeks in the airport parking lot in which there was not any noticeable air loss. You'll be pulling the right front fender skirt, which gives easy access to the front valve block. I'd recommend giving it a refurb or complete replacement while you're in there. Ebay has rebuild kits for about $30 that have o-rings to rebuild both front and rear valve blocks.

The trick to the job for me was the short air supply line to the front struts. That supply line has a clip on the frame. If you follow the route of this supply line, you'll find it. Unclip this to get an extra few inches to pull the strut out, which gives MUCH more room to work! I didn't do this on the left side, but figured it out on the right side and saved about 30 minutes of fiddling to remove the supply hose (voss connector).

 

Maybe the ones you bought looked identical, but the ones Detriot sells now do not look the same. I think my biggest concern with cheap ones is simply ride quality. You know the insert is probably not the best. I mean of course putting anything new in will feel better than the old ones, but on cars past I have cheeped out on absorbers and within a year I replaced them again. The valving just does not hold up.

 

The rears rarely fail, and I believe it is based on what @houm_wa says as to load etc.

But, if you had a normal coil suspension vehicle with 150-200K miles, would you have changed the shocks by now?