Replacing Rear Strut Dust Boot
Found the dust boot on my rear strut ripped in several places. Ordered an new one for about $70 from the dealer. It appears that it slips up from the bottom and attaches with a metal clamp. My question is "will I need to release the pressure in the strut to remove the lower strut bolt?" If I do, what is the best way to release the pressure?
Ok, I picked up the boot from the dealer today. It came with a short boot for the top, a large boot for the bottom, and a long clamp for the top of the bottom boot. Appears that the clamp uses a standard cv boot crimp tool to tighten. The adventure begins!
You do not need to depressurize the air spring to disconnect the lower
strut bolt.
I suggust you use extreme caution while working with Air Suspension in your driveway.
1) set vehicle to low profile ride height.
2) disconnect battery to suspend ride height adjustment
3) loosen rear wheel and jack up vehicle from strut perch until wheel is off the ground.
4) positon jack stand under frame on jacked corner. remove rear wheel.
5) loosen lower strut bolt. lower jack under strut perch to fully extentd strut, remove strut bolt. you may need to jack up or pry down the lower control control arm to slide bolt out.
6) remove old boot.
7) install new boot and clamp. you may not be able to fit the boot and clamp easily with the strut fully extended.
8) pry or jack lower arm and refit lower strut bolt.
9) jack under lower control arm at the strut perch to compress the strut to low profile or close enough to fit strut boot.
10) fit new boot and secure clamp.
11) install rear wheel, remove jack stand, lower rear corner, and tighten wheel
12) reconnect battery
strut bolt.
I suggust you use extreme caution while working with Air Suspension in your driveway.
1) set vehicle to low profile ride height.
2) disconnect battery to suspend ride height adjustment
3) loosen rear wheel and jack up vehicle from strut perch until wheel is off the ground.
4) positon jack stand under frame on jacked corner. remove rear wheel.
5) loosen lower strut bolt. lower jack under strut perch to fully extentd strut, remove strut bolt. you may need to jack up or pry down the lower control control arm to slide bolt out.
6) remove old boot.
7) install new boot and clamp. you may not be able to fit the boot and clamp easily with the strut fully extended.
8) pry or jack lower arm and refit lower strut bolt.
9) jack under lower control arm at the strut perch to compress the strut to low profile or close enough to fit strut boot.
10) fit new boot and secure clamp.
11) install rear wheel, remove jack stand, lower rear corner, and tighten wheel
12) reconnect battery
Last edited by threalassmikeg; Feb 28, 2013 at 06:58 AM.
Repair complete. Not as straight forward as I expected. As Mike stated, required a bar and ultimately spousal assistance with the floor jack to get the lower shock bolt back in place. Used several jack stands and was very careful braking the bolt loose. As I removed the bolt, the rotor shot "up" instead of falling down as I expected. The replacement took a little more than an hour.
Repair complete. Not as straight forward as I expected. As Mike stated, required a bar and ultimately spousal assistance with the floor jack to get the lower shock bolt back in place. Used several jack stands and was very careful braking the bolt loose. As I removed the bolt, the rotor shot "up" instead of falling down as I expected. The replacement took a little more than an hour.
What did you mean by "The Rotor shot up" ? Did it hit hard as in smash fingers off hard? What would you do differently if you to try a second time?
Thanks!
BTW are the ebay or amazon aftermarket boots decent enough vs OEM? They are like 18.00 per boot including the clamp.
Last edited by RAJOD; Dec 1, 2022 at 05:37 PM.
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