First off determine which compressor you have, should be hitachi unless replaced previously. Pull the cover and check then either buy and fit a service kit or a replacement compressor, if you had no major issues previously then most likely it wont be expensive exercise. A working EAS system is far superior to a coil conversion for most duties.

 

Do what's been suggested. Drive it. Pull fuse 26 (which stops the vehicle self-leveling) and see which corner is down. It would help a great deal to get the faults read. Leaping to the conclusion that you should change to springs would seem a little premature (plus the vehicle with the original suspension is excellent) and leaks in all four airbags seems unlikely I think, if that's your concern.

There are a few relatively simple and very cheap to rule out exercises to go through as has been suggested above - i.e. inspect the front valve block for desiccant and change the seals, etc.

Good luck.

 

I'm down on my bump stops stuck in 30mph suspension fault mode...
My shocks may well have very slight leaks -- but nothing that has been an issue yet, as it has been raising and lowering great, and whatever calibration happens when I start it up in the mornings is pretty minor. The shocks themselves seem at least serviceable for now.
I'm concerned with what it is that triggered my full suspension fault (first amber colored alert, and then the red one saying to stop and not exceed 30mph shortly after) and then dropped down to my bump stops while I was driving.
That seems like an important detail -- I was in the middle of driving to the grocery store when this occurred, and I went from normal driving height down to bump stops in about 30 seconds.
Really weird.

 

Red fault with speed limitation sounds like a cross articulation fault to me, which means your EAS needs calibration. You may still need a compressor. Don't convert it, the EAS is the ****!

Adam, you have a suspension leak, as has been suggested. Easy fix.

 

Thanks for the insight @houm_wa , I got it diagnosed and fixed today actually. Compressor and struts are all good. It was just my rear height sensors that went bad, and disabled the EAS. Replaced them & recalibrated and all good now. Thankful I didn’t need to replace the actual shocks. I really like the EAS as well.
What is it about it that you like so much compared to coils?

 

@DakotaTravler I verified today that my truck does in fact lower when I shut off the engine and get out. It doesn’t necessarily go all the way down to access height - but just today as I was getting the groceries out of the back seat, just after stopping the engine and pulling the keys out, it bled down an inch or so in what seemed like a programmed standard adjustment. I start it back up and it returns to normal height. I had all 4 struts tested today and have zero leaks.
Thoughts?

 

Glad they calibrated it. I don't think you needed sensors but have to wonder why the EAS "lost" the calibration.

I like the EAS because it's at the core of the LR3's DNA and the cross-linking gives it solid axles dynamics. It provides good articulation for an independent setup, too. It's quite robust once a person knows the symptoms and their root causes.

 

Thats not how the LR3 works, going to access height. The trucks just adjust as needed. When turned off it runs a routine to set heights. An inch is nowhere close to access height. And it won't lower like that all the time.

 

Mine does the same his does. It's more pronounced now with the new compressor I installed. It "farts", as someone so eloquently put it, a few seconds after I get out of the car and only the back end lowers to, what looks like, level the car.

 

Yup, mine sometimes does it too. But that is nothing like access and again its just the system adjusting per protocol. Just like it will often do a noticeable adjustment in a drive-thru, etc.