Sorry for the lack of a reply earlier Superkev, but I just returned from vacation. I'm glad to hear the install turned out well! I suppose this is one reason why just replacing the dryer assembly instead of the entire compressor is a much cheaper option... you don't need to update the compressor software to replace the dryer only.

Regardless, I think you have made a good investment decision with the diagnostic tool, because you will get more errors in the future and want to be able to determine how severe they are. Actually, if you just plan on changing the oil yourself, you will need something to reset the service interval indicator.

Mai-ILLINOIS - If you've been following this thread at all, then I think you know that the first step is to figure out which codes are being generated and WHY you have the Suspension Fault light. Has the dealership already diagnosed the problem? If so, you should ask them which code was generated by the computer and exactly what it said.

Regardless, I think $1700 is highway robbery for what should be approximately 1 hour (but certainly no more than 2 hours) of labor to replace the compressor and update the software. Superkev got a great price on the compressor... I think I've seen them go in the $800-1000 range here in the US, but I wouldn't jump to an entire compressor replacement as your solution. There are other options such as the dryer unit replacement only (about $110 + your labor) and a compressor refresh kit (can't remember how much it was, but I think around $30?) that will replace some various bits and pieces prone to failure on the compressor itself. As far as the question on the mechanic replacing the compressor instead of the dealer... he/she should have no problem doing the actual mechanical replacement of the compressor (it's quite simple). However, they will need a special tool and software in order to update the software... this is where the IID tool/Hawkeye/Faultmate/whatever else comes in.

 

Yes, I have read and understood. I am not mechanically inclined - and will not know how to repair the compressor as the others have done nor how to go about replacing it.
The fault is still random (yellow) and is not yet permanent (red). Thus the dealership could not pull the code when I went in as it was NOT active. I'll be bringing it back this week to get a readout.

Thanks for the info regarding the full compressor package being $1K.
MAi

 

Mai, I don't know who you're dealing with, but red or yellow indicator makes no difference. If one of those warning lights indicates, then it does so because the ecu registered a fault in some system. This fault is stored in the memory and will remain present even after the indicator goes away... Until it is cleared manually.

 

Mai-ILLINOIS - I would explore the mechanic route. You don't actually need to be a mechanic to replace the compressor or dryer. the mechanic bit is good for the tool required but not essential. (sorry if this dabs genuine mechanics but it really is simple and the instructions are very easy to follow). If i were you i would print out the instructions from the link earlier in this thread and sit with a friend and see if you can both understand how this is replaced - 3 bolts 3 pipes, a wretch spanner and a strong arm.. and a guy directing (that's me!!)

See if you can get a price for the work, a price for the new parts and then you can weigh it up in terms of costs v confidence. If you have ever put together an IKEA wardrobe with a friend, this will be just as hard, i promise.. (i say now when i have completed it) so i know the nervousness you are going through having just gone through this myself. You don't need a LR mechanic any backstreet chappie will do..

Anyway, just my thoughts.

Best Wishes and good luck

 

cmb6s: no worries buddy - agreed with the dryer v compressor. I took the more expensive route as i didn't want to be stuck twice i guess.

i hope you enjoyed your holiday and i hope you slept in you LR at least one night

 

SuperKev and folks,
Thanks - I really appreciate the support on this forum.

I don't like this fear of the unknown with a USED car. The car repair quote's is so high - and now I am most nervous as I am worrying about what have I got myself into with a LR?

Now I know why everyone who buys one says there is much repair work/$ with keeping one, but I LOVE MY ROVER!! It's the best looking SUV out there...once I saw it - I said I got to buy this car. AND I AM A GIRL!!!

 

I think that the cost of maintaining a used LR3 may be the reason that the retail value for a used one is so low. I mean, if I'm being honest, the LR3s have not maintained their value well at all. Kind of like the Volkswagen Phaeton. However, that being said, if you stay on top of maintenance items and if you can do the simple things yourself (or find a good indy shop), then I think it is manageable.

There are certain problems that I would only trust a dealer to fix (especially electrical/computer related problems), but many that I think indy shops should be able to handle (most of the purely mechanical stuff).

This forum and others are a great resource and you will find many people who know all the ins and outs of these vehicles due to personal experience or from reading post after post after post and educating themselves. Even if you're not planning to work on the car itself, it may still help to post questions and receive feedback from the smart folks here so that you can at least go in to the dealer with a better understanding of what the problem may be and what to expect in terms of repair bills.

In the end, I think the old saying is still true... it is still cheaper to maintain a used car (no matter how painful it may be at times) than to purchase a new car. Think what your new car bill would be every month, take half of that money and put it away into an LR3 repair fund.

Oh, and on the note of your compressor repair, I would seriously go back and ask the dealer what code was generated and stored in your computer. If they charged you a diagnostic fee or any labor to look at it, then they read the code and should have the actual error code/message. This will help (though not guarantee) people on here to give you advice. Good luck!

 

Agreed; I figure I spend about $200/mo to maintain the beast. @Mai - the LR3 is NOT an SUV; it's a 4x4.

 

update: IID tool received, ECU flashed (it took 50 secs and i did it all by myself) we are rock and roll. Gotta find myself some sand dunes now... shouldn't be hard though!

thanks all

 

I've had the suspension fault on for a month now because I didn't want to drop the $250 for a little tank filled with Desiccant. I read posts on here about buying some Desiccant from Amazon so I gave it a shot. Package arrived today and I went to work. Took everything apart and took the lid off the filter. Most of the Desiccant was still in its bead form but it was all stuck together. I cleaned it all out and filled it with the new Desiccant. Reinstalled everything and fired it up. No error codes and everything works as it should. I'm so glad I followed members on here and spent $24 shipped rather than $250. By the way I asked around at a few parts stores and they said there was no way to replace the Desiccant because it's sealed inside the container. I'm glad there are some smart cookies on here. Thanks for the advise even though indirectly.