LR3 Talk about the Land Rover LR3 within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

V6 LR3 Expert Opinions, Please

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 11-06-2017, 10:37 PM
ATXLR3's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ArmyRover
There are cheaper ones out there but the less you spend the less they can do.

Just depends on what you are willing to go without for upfront savings. I programmed a key with my GAP tool. Check how much that little trick will cost at your local Rover shop and think about how much that will offset the cost of the tool.

https://www.lucky8llc.com/products/g...h-connectivity
Good point. Yea, I read that a new key is like $350. Crazy, similar for Lexus, though. I think my Smart key replacement cost like $550, something insane. Granted, it is smart!
 
  #22  
Old 11-07-2017, 09:41 AM
ATXLR3's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Would you guys say that, with the V6, I should be particularly concerned with the timing chain tensioner? Now that I am looking into it, it does seem to be cause for concern, and seems that even when catching it early, it still involved the engine being removed, and many, many labor hours. Is it basically 100% that the Ford V6 will need them done, or do you think it is a smaller percentage? I am getting the impression that it isn't if, but when.
 
  #23  
Old 11-07-2017, 10:46 AM
houm_wa's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 4,078
Received 454 Likes on 405 Posts
Default

You two have been having a good dialogue and I don't know that I can add much. I think the LR3 is quite reliable as long as you stay ahead of it. I learn a lot just by reading this board, and I address potential problems preemptively. For example I changed out that plastic bleeder valve BEFORE it could break. I changed out my EGR valve before it could start leaking....I spend about a $1000/year, voluntarily, changing out old parts on my 12 year old LR3. I call it an annual "Spa Day."

A few years ago I took it to the Yukon Territory. Before going I changed just about everything rubber (brake lines, coolant lines, HVAC, etc) and added a block heater to keep it happy in the cold.

Little things like that go a long way.
 
  #24  
Old 11-07-2017, 10:49 AM
ATXLR3's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by houm_wa
You two have been having a good dialogue and I don't know that I can add much. I think the LR3 is quite reliable as long as you stay ahead of it. I learn a lot just by reading this board, and I address potential problems preemptively. For example I changed out that plastic bleeder valve BEFORE it could break. I changed out my EGR valve before it could start leaking....I spend about a $1000/year, voluntarily, changing out old parts on my 12 year old LR3. I call it an annual "Spa Day."

A few years ago I took it to the Yukon Territory. Before going I changed just about everything rubber (brake lines, coolant lines, HVAC, etc) and added a block heater to keep it happy in the cold.

Little things like that go a long way.
Good tip. That is exactly what I am hoping for, around $1,000-$1,500/year in preventative work, and I would be very happy. Do you have the V6, or is it the V8? How many miles?
 
  #25  
Old 11-07-2017, 11:18 AM
djkronik57's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 531
Received 48 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

I also had to replace my V8 at about 95,000 miles, with no clear single reason for failure (it died in the hands of a mechanic, so details are iffy). So V6 or V8, nothing is bulletproof.

I would say if you are satisfied with the V6 and have driven a V8, the V6 seems like a decent deal with all the recent suspension work and records. But drive a V8 first. Even the V8 shows its lack of grunt on the highway and has to downshift when more adequately powered cars do not.
 
  #26  
Old 11-07-2017, 12:33 PM
ATXLR3's Avatar
Overlanding
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by djkronik57
I also had to replace my V8 at about 95,000 miles, with no clear single reason for failure (it died in the hands of a mechanic, so details are iffy). So V6 or V8, nothing is bulletproof.

I would say if you are satisfied with the V6 and have driven a V8, the V6 seems like a decent deal with all the recent suspension work and records. But drive a V8 first. Even the V8 shows its lack of grunt on the highway and has to downshift when more adequately powered cars do not.
The V6 felt decent enough. My main concern, at this point, is if I have to put $4k+ into it, relatively quickly, I would be better off finding a V8 HSE. Granted, it seems that even those may then need $4k+, so who knows, haha. Maybe it is luck, as you had issues on a well maintained V8.
 
  #27  
Old 11-07-2017, 01:26 PM
ArmyRover's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 9,832
Received 1,481 Likes on 1,209 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by djkronik57
I also had to replace my V8 at about 95,000 miles, with no clear single reason for failure (it died in the hands of a mechanic, so details are iffy). So V6 or V8, nothing is bulletproof.

I would say if you are satisfied with the V6 and have driven a V8, the V6 seems like a decent deal with all the recent suspension work and records. But drive a V8 first. Even the V8 shows its lack of grunt on the highway and has to downshift when more adequately powered cars do not.
The power difference is the big thing for me.

Dumb question how is the exhaust on yours with the resonator deleted. I keep finding myself looking at my exhaust and wonder how good could I make this Jag V8 sound with a little work.....
 
  #28  
Old 11-07-2017, 01:42 PM
djkronik57's Avatar
Winching
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 531
Received 48 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Love it. Great V8 sound and only loud when I really get on it. Normal driving is pretty normal volume with a little more rumble. Outside it sounds like a proper truck. The only time it can get a little annoying is on aforementioned hills on the highway where it needs to shift down to maintain speed. It really only gets loud in the upper RPMs.
 
  #29  
Old 11-07-2017, 02:09 PM
ArmyRover's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Augusta, GA
Posts: 9,832
Received 1,481 Likes on 1,209 Posts
Default

Good to know thanks!
 
  #30  
Old 11-07-2017, 05:03 PM
houm_wa's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 4,078
Received 454 Likes on 405 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by ATXLR3
Good tip. That is exactly what I am hoping for, around $1,000-$1,500/year in preventative work, and I would be very happy. Do you have the V6, or is it the V8? How many miles?
I have driven a V6 as a service loaner, a long time ago. Mine is a V8 HSE with Cold Climate Package, HD Package, Convenience Package (this had to do with the rear seats) and Adaptive Headlights. It's a 5-seater. I ordered it like this in Feb 2005 and waited for it. Kinda cool to think that it was mine before it even left the factory. Took delivery in June 2005. It has ~125,800 Miles on it.
 


Quick Reply: V6 LR3 Expert Opinions, Please



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:06 AM.