Got the drivers side pillar trim removed. Went back to records and had pillar/windshield leak worked on at dealer in July 2010. Looking over job I would call it a 6 out of 10. Seems like went overboard with auto sealant but hey it worked till now. Appears could possible be a point of water intrusion at top corner of windshield. I assume need to peel back rubber gasket on along top of windshield to check? Any observations or recommendations. I’ll clean up pillar, buy new clips and maybe a new pillar trim.




anyone peeled back or removed these two trim pieces? Any experienced advice or otherwise would be helpful. I would like to peel both back some to get a good look at glass seal and maybe add a little. Going to put some water to this area and see if I can replicate leak. Thanks.

 

Looking at your last picture it looks like the sealant or debris on the side of the glass has allowed a space for water to collect at the top corner (and possibly along the top).

The trim along the windscreen is most likely glued to some extent. peel back from the body side to see how much debris is under it or how easily it pulls up. The trim on the roof can be gently pulled up from a front corner as the plastic snap usually releases on one side first. Seldom have I seen the perfectly clean.

I still think you have a leak from the windscreen not sealed properly and most likely you have found the point where the water has been standing and has now worked its way inside.

Jeff

Standard Disclaimer: I might be wrong

 

Thanks Rufflyer! Both trim pieces on pretty tight. I figure the sealant at side of windshield was installed during previous fix. Does seem to form a blockage at the top which would cause some water to sit at the top corner of windshield. Will have to peel trim back several inches to inspect and get some caulk in there. The trim is so tight I wonder if I will be able to get in pushed back in?

 

Got upper windshield and foot molding pulled back. Windshield molding just took a good tug and it broke free no problem. Ran a tool along the upper and lower edge first to break it loose. The roof molding has some different clips attached to the molding. Ran trim tool under front and pried upwards and they popped loose easily. First clip was about 1.5 to 2 inches from from front edge. Water test uncovered the leak, thank goodness. It’s at the top of windshield and appears approx 2.5 inches or so from the edge of glass. Glass still is original so I guess over time a leak developed through original seal. It’s crazy all the places LR3’s develop leaks. I’m uploading some more pics, maybe they will help someone later on with similar issues. If I ever have to replace the glass I’ll install new right pillar (replacing left on this job), and upper glass molding. Notice all the debris collected at the front of the roof molding.
Thanks for all responses!

 

I'm gonna take a guess that your LR3 does not live in a garage, huh?

 

I would say around 70% outside, 30% under cover. One owner, not dogged, fairly well maintained. Looks really good until you look under stuff.

 

No luck fixing leak on first try. Plugged a couple of places with silicone that looked suspicious. Also laid a thin bead of caulk before reinstalling the top windshield weather stripping. The weather stripping does not won't to snap in place with extra sealant installed. Not sure on what next step to take? Any suggestions anyone? I did double check where the leak location and it is in the top corner of windshield.

 

I've also got a leak on the passenger side.

The drain tube nipple is intact and I can blow air through it and feel it at the sunroof.

My cowl has gap. Not as bad as Coldwater's.

My question is, Can you unattached then front electrical connections and the 2 10mm bolts from the interior fuze box and manipulate it enough to visualize the drain tube? Seems un-connecting and re-connecting the back electrical connections is the hardest part of removing the fuze box and I wanted to see if that could be avoided.

Thanks,

 

Wish I could answer your question. I decided to have the dealership do the repair and did not have an opportunity to discuss procedure with the LR tech. From information I found on the web the fuse box has to come out. The possibility of having electrical gremlins scared me away from the job. IMO the design of the early LR3's pillars, sunroof drains and cowl trim and windshield sealing are lacking a bit. Presents issues as the vehicle ages. My front sunroof drains are working as they should so that job done! Still working on my windshield leak.

 

Still have the leak. Tracked it down to the left top corner. Had Safelight do a sealant back fill. Still leaked and I tried twice to plug specific leak area with silicone and leaks just moves over a little. Anyway right now I'm working on the issue of right side defroster not entirely working in all areas. Left side good. I have checked the fuses -OK-. Also checked for continuity on both sides which checked good. Most of the right side is out but I think a few wires are working. How would I use a testing meter to check for power at the hot wire lead behind the pillar. Voltage test? I assume the solid black wire is the ground. I'm not experienced on testing wiring other than testing batteries/continuity etc. What's the next step on tracking down the problem? I suspect it may be a windshield problem.