I didn’t take any pics dang it. I ran everything under the left side carpet strips to the radio, backup camera and satélite antenna. I think the right side would have been a better choice since that Is where the fuse box side is behind the glove box.
I used the Metra 95-9404B Double DIN Radio Dash Install Kit For Select Land Rover 2005-2012. It mounts the Kenwood EXCELON DDX6906S very securely. I spliced the LR3 harness into the Kenwood harness fairly easily. The only mod needed was some plastic removed from the back of where the new stereo rests. The Kenwood with the RCA cables coming off the back for the under seat sub were bunching up not letting it lock in place. The XM module rests below the ac vent just to the right of the stereo. It all fits in there behind the dash molding.

 

Driving from RI to Vegas in a week and finished my "stranded" kit. Did I miss anything?

parts:
Coolant bleeder
Brake switch
Brake lights
Jug of oil
Jug of coolant
Fuses
Splicer and electrical tape
Metric sockets
Screwdrivers

 

GAP tool if you have one.

 

Yup that's always in the truck, got it the day after I bought the truck

 

I found some time to do a little work and sorted out mounting for the new Hella FF500 LEDS. Did a test fire using a Milwaukee m12 cordless tool battery. The harnesses will get installed in the new LR3 so it will be a quick swap over with the rack.

 

Today I swore a lot, not so much at the LR3 but at Alto, the numnuts that made my metal trans pan. I worked this AM so I already was well into my "day" by the time I got to working the truck. While she cooled down in the workshop I put a new "gutter" rubber seal on the passenger side. its the seal along the top on the body that goes front all the way to the back of the rear door. It pulled away in a corner allowing water to get to the sills between the door gaskets. Open the door, splash! So that went well, just lots of cleaning off the residue and placement of one $115 gasket.

So now lets to this metal pan conversion, only been sitting on it for almost a year. 150,000k miles. First I make sure I can get to all the factory pan bolts before I drain. Atlantic British has an amazing video on the entire procedure. I custom make two T40 sockets to get the job done. One a couple mm shorter at the tip, the other punched out of the socked and ground WAY down and put back in. 3mm of tip is all that was exposed then, super short socket. Lifting the transfer case is a requirement really and really easy to do. So just do it, pull the bolt. Nothing will lower or fall, then jack it up an inch or so.

Drained the fluid, it looked better than expected for 150k, just like new conventional oil. A dark amber but not black. Smelled like regular ATF. Cutting the fill tube was pretty easy the way AB showed. Took just 30 seconds to cut through with an 18 tooth hacksaw blade. Turn the pan, drop it out. Magnets were practically spotless. Starting to wonder if this trans was actually serviced at some point? Should have taken a pic of the pan to check its date code (if it has one). I think it was ArmyRover that suggest the Felpro gasket? Its a metal one with a really nice rubber edge that follows the same contour at the factory gasket. This is a plus because while you do clean the interface on the transmission, you dont have to be paranoid. Since the FelPro gasket seats on the same area its pretty clean. I used no sealants. Light torque on the new 10mm bolts that came with the pan, spec is something like 6 inch/lb I think? So at this point all it well, time to fill it up with the cheap Harbor Freight transfer pump. For $7 is a steal and works well. Only got three quarts in then fired it up, shifting gear, etc. After running a bit it happily took more. I ended up burning up 8 quarts but 1 was probably spillage and waste. I did not know it had to be left running to install the drain plug. So when I turned it off, DUMP! Oops. Added more and did it right. A swivel with a LONG extension helps prevent burning the skin.

So all good, right? I even got a new valve body sleeve installed, that was not fun! Clean things up and let it really warm up, etc. Checking for leaks I keep seeing one at the large drain plug. I think its just splashing that is dripping down. Clean things again, drop comes back, very slowly. Getting a bit concerned. Finally get my face up to it and sure ****, tiny indent along the weld and that's were its leaking from..... So for now I have some JB weld holding it back. Let it tack up pretty good and pushed some in there. Once plugged I coated again with JB. But I idle a lot and this is not the high-temp stuff, so I will probably either grind it off and do it again with high-temp JB or just order more fluid/gasket/pan. Will go faster the second time and the sleeve is done. Also it would be nice to get more of the old fluid out. But I tell ya, nothing like getting a project done just to find out there is a defective product causing a huge pain....

 

DakotaTraveler, I am with you, but on a smaller and less traumatic level.

Mine was a small problem but I had the same big response.. I swore a lot.

I Finally got around to swapping the door lock actuator on the right front. So far, so good. It came apart just like the manual said it would. The special tool for the glass ALWAYS comes in handy and a small flashlight that will fit inside the door is a plus. It went back in smoothly too. I should have been suspicious.

I tested the window movement and door lock before putting the door panel back on. I was proud of myself for thinking like that but the dog (who always wants to sit in the back seat when I am working on the rover just yawned and showed no interest in my genius) The door panel went back on with no issues.
As I stepped back to pat myself on the back I noticed a small Torx head screw laying in the bin where I put the fasteners during the project. (My first thought was the classic "extra parts left over" situation). But I knew this had to be wrong. I took my time, followed the manual, where did I forget to put in a Torx head screw?

I re-read the manual noting where the Torx head screws were. I pulled the door panel back off and went looking for the Torx head screws. I took a break for an adult beverage as I pondered my ignorance. I found them! One was for the outside of the door handle and on the outside of the door, so it was easy to check, the other was for the outside door handle but inside of the door. This one required a small mirror and flashlight to find and it was in place. SO......... where did this little silver colored screw belong?

It was then that I realized that I had removed a plastic shield from the old actuator so I could get the cable released and had accidentally placed it in the fastener bin with all the others thus creating all the extra work. On the up side, Danny (the dog) got to enjoy some extra "Rover Time" with me while I was on this misadventure.

Dakota Traveler, as for the pan I have done both ways, OEM replacement and BMW metal pan. in the end, they both sucked. The sleeve replacement really sucked. I have one due on my 2006, but seem to find "other things" to do. If I were smart, I would figure out a way to pour the fluid in from one of the hoses connecting to the radiator as adding the fluid around the hot exhaust is never any fun.

But alas, I am not smart.

Jeff

 

Put the Aux Battery on the charger as I was planning on keeping the fridge plugged in for this weekends grocery trip.
Well the Aux battery showed 11.4 volts after an all night charge and the fridge was off. I did not look at the main battery, just disconnected the battery charger in a plan to drive it up to Reilly's and swap out the AUX battery there saving me some time.

NO..... Main battery showed 10.9. Starter would barely click, much less turn over.

So, both batteries out, into the back of the Mini Cooper and off to the auto parts store. Only good thing is they were both in warranty, so only batteries changed hands, no money this time.

I should just make a service schedule to replace the batteries every 23 months 4 days (seems to be the average in these things down here).

In the end I got some emotional therapeutic rover time in the driveway and it got two new batteries.

Jeff

 

Not much, but I replaced a side view mirror because the housing had been cracked for a long time and it just kept getting worse. Previous owner had hit something with it, apparently.

Then did the driver side sunroof drain because it was leaking. Taking it out to my local garage guys tomorrow so they can do the CV joint and hopefully getting to the passenger side drain when they’re done.

 

Picked up the refurbished headliner and sunvisors