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What size tires do you have? What would you start looking at if your MPG was lower than 14mpg? Maybe a stock rover would get above 14mpg. What’s your secret to a good mpg rover... if it’s a 4.4ltr V8. I can only dream of a TDV6.
To get more than 14 mpg in a V8 you need to use premium fuel (92 octane), not install any body modifications that can increase air resistance (like a roof rack, or swinging rear tire rack), use skid plates on the underside of the car to decrease wind resistance on the underside of the car (also never drive with the windows down or the sunroof open since that increases wind resistance), not use any lift kits like Johnson rods because increased lift increases air resistance, run dedicated street tires (not all season tires), not have any extra weight in the car (no heavy interior mods like a fridge or extra batteries), have the car properly aligned, make sure none of the bush bearings are worn, don't run any AC/heat. You also have to only use freeways with as little city driving as possible, and live in a place that gets no rain or snow. You can also do crazy things like reduce the weight of the car by removing the 3rd row seating, and getting rid of the spare tire.
So all of these might not be possible to most people, and city/highway driving makes such a huge difference anyway that you're never going to get 14+mpg in the city no matter what you do unless you go to extremes like completely gut the interior and remove all the seats and replace the driver seat with a folding chair.
Ah yes, the 4.0L V6, the one with the timing chain problems. Your chain probably skipped time and resulted in that lovely experience. Is the engine totaled at that point? I can't imagine a scenario where you could salvage anything besides the housing and other pistons. That piston bore is probably out of spec as well.
Ah yes, the 4.0L V6, the one with the timing chain problems. Your chain probably skipped time and resulted in that lovely experience. Is the engine totaled at that point? I can't imagine a scenario where you could salvage anything besides the housing and other pistons. That piston bore is probably out of spec as well.
Skipped time like Doc and Marty. I knew this teardown would be interesting in the way of destruction. I have so many pictures of things that boggle my mind with this engine. ALL of the plastic guides were broken. One of the hydraulic tensioners was completely broken. The metal rails were rubbed raw when I dropped the pan the oil had more glitter than a disco ball. I also believe the block is cracked. So to answer your question, this potential rebuild project is gonna be a boat anchor. sad day.
Replaced my front suspension valve block with an extra one I rebuilt ahead of time. Also found you do not have to take the whole liner out, 3 screws and one push pin is plenty. The flat rate tech in me is always looking for tricks to get these jobs done quicker. I'll take apart the original one when I have some spare time and see how bad it is. You can see in the second photo the 3 lines had quite a bit of white powder on them so I have a feeling it isn't going to be great inside the original valve. I do know that on first start up the front end came up quicker than it ever has. Sitting overnight will tell me if it's better/fixed as that is about how long it took to get it to sag.
Great tip Alex! I just replaced mine this week too. 3rd time and usually do the same trick The last one valve block I got was from Amazon was a 1/3 the price (~$50), but only lasted 14 months.
I was getting C1A31 which typically mean broken wire. I took out the entire wheel liner looking for any wire damage. WOW there are alot of clips holing them in and after 14 years they do not want to budge. I did remove 5 pounds of 14 year old dirt!
BTW - you can tell the difference between Genuine OEM and knockoffs by the top side which many ebay and amazon listings omit photos of the top. Genuine have torx screws and engraving. The knockoffs have phillips screws and not engraving:
Replaced with genuine OEM from Lucky8 this time - not worth the hours of effort for cheaper non-oem part. If the price is too good to be true, it probably is.
To get more than 14 mpg in a V8 you need to use premium fuel (92 octane), not install any body modifications that can increase air resistance (like a roof rack, or swinging rear tire rack), use skid plates on the underside of the car to decrease wind resistance on the underside of the car (also never drive with the windows down or the sunroof open since that increases wind resistance), not use any lift kits like Johnson rods because increased lift increases air resistance, run dedicated street tires (not all season tires), not have any extra weight in the car (no heavy interior mods like a fridge or extra batteries), have the car properly aligned, make sure none of the bush bearings are worn, don't run any AC/heat. You also have to only use freeways with as little city driving as possible, and live in a place that gets no rain or snow. You can also do crazy things like reduce the weight of the car by removing the 3rd row seating, and getting rid of the spare tire.
So all of these might not be possible to most people, and city/highway driving makes such a huge difference anyway that you're never going to get 14+mpg in the city no matter what you do unless you go to extremes like completely gut the interior and remove all the seats and replace the driver seat with a folding chair.
My stock 07 LR3 V8 gets 15+ around town. And 19+ on the highway. My polar opposite of all the things you listed lifted on 33" MTs with a loaded roof rack bumper skids etc gets 13 around town and 15-16 on the highway..
What size tires do you have? What would you start looking at if your MPG was lower than 14mpg? Maybe a stock rover would get above 14mpg. What’s your secret to a good mpg rover... if it’s a 4.4ltr V8. I can only dream of a TDV6.
255/55/19 - so stock for me. If milage started to go down I would check the air filter, clean the MAF, clean the TB and ask myself when the O2s were last replaced. I do a lot of regular maintenance, all quick easy stuff but things to keep on top of. Also I run Seafoam a few times a year to keep the injectors clean.
FYI I have a roof rack and those numbers I gave are with it installed. Also I am lifted above stock height by 1.5 inches.
Hit 163K and replaced both front wheel bearing hubs. Only took a few hours, left side was worse than the right, but neither as bad as the YouTube videos front Atlantic British on the subject. Cured some noise I didn’t realize I had. Semi convinced I should upgrade to Brembo brakes because I think the caliber design is better overall from the RR SC Sport, however I haven’t figured out if the early RRS four piston requires 20”, or just the later 6 piston RRS does. Beyond that, it’s simple. Wheels are cheap if I need to go from 19 to 20. No longer off roads for mine, keeping it pristine instead.
06 V6 LR3 teardown
