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I was skeptical, but it was sold by Hitachi and fulfilled by Amazon, so the risk was low. It’s definitely a genuine compressor. I was less confident in the Bosch relay I bought than the air compressor! But both checked out.
I’ve seen some Bosch parts I’ve purchased recently (fuel injectors) coming with SN you can report on their website to verify the parts are genuine. The SN are unique and get logged so if there is a duplicate or it doesn’t exist you know it’s a fake. Sucks that this is the state of things.
Installed a manual release for the upper tailgate as well as a new actuator today - all preventive for peace of mind. Also recently replaced my front diff - then pinion bearing was getting quite noisy, no doubt due to the inside paint fiasco. I plan to open it up and give it a good clean, and if the gears look OK will rebuild it for a spare. I purchased my refurbished diff from Winchester Gears in the UK.
Loving the quiet ride!
Surprisingly got the LR3 armored up fairly quickly! Unlike my old D2, didn't need as much fixing up, although I don't think I can keep my hands off that for too long. Will likely run into issues and make more modifications
Got to enjoy the view of it from my dorm before the campus police could spot me parked there. So far liking the look of the truck (minus the missing trim I didn't have time to install), but not loving the boxy back end compared to the more rounded body.
I went with an ARB front bumper, which I like the looks off, but installing it and dealing with installing a winch was a huge hassle. Used a smittybilt 12k winch, as I didn't have coin to buy a warn that would fit perfectly. Tactical Rover rear bumper used from a donor car, and stuck with the rock sliders that came with the truck (can't remember the brand). I like being able to get the rear tire (275 65 R18) out of the bottom and kept aired up on the back .Did look at the Tactical Rover sliders, but with the amount of snow wheeling I do, I don't like the added extra weight and the flat surface that can aid suction to the ground in mud. Still got to keep this as my daily as 1 parking spot alone is $200 a semester.
Took the front valve block apart this morning, cleaned it and reassembled. There was quite a bit of buildup on every o-ring I found. The front suspension was dropping over the course of a couple days and I'm hoping this helps.
I had a leak on the transmission wiring harness, figured was a good time to change the fluid anyway. I've owned my 2006 LR3 for a couple of years, and with 169K on the clock, was not sure if it was ever changed.
tedious to do, but did it myself... drove it 300 miles and everything was great, no leaks, smooth shifts. happy days.
Went out this morning a saw drip marks on the concrete.... ugh... look like the wiring harness is leaking again. after all that work.
I guess I should just cough up the money and go to a dealer to get it fixed, I just don't have the time to mess with it again. almost tempted to sell it. so frustrating.
Wow, that is expensive for aftermarket. I get OEM ones for less than that. With that said, I would not think an aftermarket sleeve would really be an issue. Is it leaking from the exact same spot? I could only think an o-ring was torn upon install? I lubricate mine with silicon plumbers grease when installing.
Well I got under it today, and it doesn't look like the sleeve was leaking, instead it might be the pan rubber gasket. I went around and re-torqued all the pan bolts, some were a little loose. I'm hoping that was it... wiped everything clean and will keep an eye on it
OK, I did the two bucket, hose and pump flush I mean transfusion on my 2008.
I picked up a couple of semi transparent paint buckets that had marks on the side and a few feet of clear hose and a drill powered pump, a 20 Liter jug of Liquid Moly Tech 1800 fluid and set about replacing the fluid.
I replaced 18 liters through the hose and saved a few liters for setting the level right using the "burn your hand" method, then reset transmission adaptations.
