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My son and I bought his LR3 back in May and we finally took some time this weekend to address the "reduced engine performance" w/ multiple misfire codes and one ignition coil code. Here's what we did:
Pulled the MAF sensor and cleaned it up nice
Cleaned out the throttle body / butterfly valve
Pulled the fuel injectors and fuel rail - cleaned everything up and rebuilt the injectors w/ a kit from The Injector Shop
Pulled ignition coils and plugs
The rubber boot on 3 of the ignition coils was deteriorated beyond usable -- bought
Unfortunately i didn't check that all the bits of one of these deteriorated boots was out of the plug well before i removed the plug and 3 tiny bits of rubber fell into the cylinder! We had to rotate the cylinder so its valves were open and blow compressed air in through the fuel injector port while vacuuming through the spark plug hole -- that did the trick quite well
3 of the 8 plugs were burnt out so we replaced all 8 w/
Cleaned out the cylinders a bit -- did a B12 chemtool piston soak twice. First was a quick one: ~3oz in each cylinder then rotate the engine a few times then vacuum it all out. Pretty satisfying to see the black stuff coming out. Second time we let it sit overnight, rotating the engine a few times before bed and a few times in the morning, then vacuumed it all out again
Reassembled everything and crossed our fingers - it took a bit of cranking before it finally fired up, but she purrs like a kitten now!
Finally, we did an oil change - put in castrol gtx HM synth blend (because it was on sale at local parts store + free cheap filter) -- we're planning to run this oil/filter for a couple hundred miles and then put in some good stuff -- probably castrol edge HM full synth and a wix or M1 filter...
Did an oil change. But this is the first time I ever did one without removing the massive skid plate. I had to remove my passenger wheel to do some other work, but normally I can just turn the wheels to full driver. This allows two things. Lets me reach up behind the passenger wheel to get the hose out, remove the valve safety clip and open the valve. And on the driver side with the wheel kicked out I can pull the splash cover and reach in to remove the oil filter. I just have to put some towels down to catch the oil from removing the filter. makes for MUCH faster oil changes. Also since I had the wheel off I replaced the oil filter housing adapter gasket - that figure 8 one that likes to leak. Had that dang gasket on hand for like two years. Again, did that with the skid plate still installed and it was not difficult at all. Once I do my valve covers, the oil leaks will finally be done... for now...
I pulled out the two engine bay relays for the blower motors K10 and K16, removed their covers and burnished their contacts because the rear quit a while ago and the front started acting up (intermittent failure of blower motor), plus ordered new relays. I'll replace them both when the new ones come in. Burnishing will clean the contacts temporarily but they will return to their previous state and likely be even less conductive, therefore it is necessary to replace them with brand new ones, in my case the YWB500060 (or equivalent) type.
Last edited by enb54; Oct 27, 2023 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: clarify
Just bought a 270 awning last week, 23Zero Falcon, and had a quite day at work so opened it up in the carpark, clears the tailgate nicely and doesnt add much height to the rack.
Well I was premature in calling out the front blower relay, looks like it was the Front blower motor speed controller, ordered one from Arizona Autohaus, Luckily it's not too cold here yet and I don't need the defroster so the rear auxiliary unit which is now working, can keep the machine warm for now. Hopefully I'll have that motor speed controller within a week or so!
Last edited by enb54; Nov 4, 2023 at 01:13 PM.
Reason: clarify
Took mine hu ting again from Atlanta to Colorado (1633 miles) one way. Drove all around the mountains on some sketchy roads with snow, ice, mud. Never let me down other than when the temp in the morning was -5 degrees the compressor gave me a warning light and disabled the special programs and would let me go to Offroad height. Once she warmed up and I restarted the LR it worked fine. No other warning lights the whole trip. Right around 4000 miles this trip. I’m sitting at 258,500 miles and still rolling strong. Picked up somebody’s wheel weight going up a snowy trail. Luckily I was about 4ft from the top, so I was able to pull off and get the spare out on (in negative 4 degree’s). That was not a fun task.
Does everyone know about the interior light toggle switch? You can temporarily turn off the interior lights when you open or close any door. This is super useful while accessing gear when camping! What other tricks like this exist?
I attempted to clone a key for my LR3 using this Amazon special that claimed to have key programming, and similar capabilities of the GAP tool.... Meh.. Not going great.
