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Finished the following projects on the 2008 LR3 - Front Lower Control Arms, Front Wheel Bearings, New Driveshaft Carrier, Rear Brakes, Land Rover OEM Front and Reservoir Suspension Air Valves, and Oil Change
Last edited by edstephan; May 3, 2026 at 08:15 AM.
My son's 2007 had a wobble at 60 mph. Thought maybe the brake caliper pins were stuck or even the cheap front wheel bearing finally gave out. Once we got it off the ground...........we discovered the right rear wheel was loose, so we replaced the knuckle with one from the parts bin. (now I need to put in new bushings and bearing it THAT for the next time). We will find time to get the left one done in a week or so. At least it is back on the road letting my son move the grand kids to and from their day time jobs ( day care)
When doing the rear knuckles, if you take off the dust shields take extra care to put them back on the right way.... unlike me..... who had to then cut out another notch for the caliper..... lol
Put a new crank seal in today on my 2006 with 235k miles. Annoyingly it was not needed. I bought the seal, new crank bolt, tool kit, etc... But it was way too clean behind the crank pulley for it to have been leaking. First time doing this job and it was oddly easy! I started it today (Friday) after work to get a jump start on it. Was to be the main weekend project. But I got it done in less than three hours. Will post a thread with more details, but here is how the old one looked. No oil leaking and the back of the crank pulley was clean too. And incase anyone asks, I had already replaced my oil housing seal. In fact to be certain it was not leaking I replaced it again a couple weeks ago. Seems I have a timing cover leak.
Replaced the driveline carrier with an aftermarket solution. Had purchased this for my truck, but when installing a new diff in his, we noticed how worn out it was and so I gave it to him. Pretty easy, the 2 minute manufacturer's video is all you need to know, but we had fun making a full process video!
I like the idea of that driveline support, but by the time the carrier goes sometimes the CV and u-joint are also worn out. This annoyed me greatly as I had a new carier bearing on hand!
It would be handy for on the road, because that banging around underneath gets pretty ridiculous.
I like the idea of that driveline support, but by the time the carrier goes sometimes the CV and u-joint are also worn out. This annoyed me greatly as I had a new carier bearing on hand!
It would be handy for on the road, because that banging around underneath gets pretty ridiculous.
Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
^ Exactly. For the price of those, which does not replace the bearing in the center support, you are much better off with a new driveshaft.
Good feedback! I got it as a gift for a friend, we'll report back on how long the rest of the driveshaft lasts. How would we go about judging the ujoint and bearing quality, do we have to pull the driveshaft to do so? When replacing that carrier, there wasn't any rotational slop in the drivenline (ujoints still good?) and the movement at the bearing between the 2 pieces seemed smooth (would the joint show wear somehow?).
I'm not sure you can really tell the condition of the bearings with the drive shaft connected, unless the wear is severe enough to show play in the joints.
I found that my rear U-Joint was notchy when I removed it, if I hadn't I wouldn't have known it. I do know that when I made a fast start from a full stop it made a lot of noise underneath, almost like a stripping sort of noise, as well as the slapping around the center bearing.
A few projects completed
