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Hello from Alaska! Got mine on the 9th last month. 2008 Java Black LR3 HSE with 114k miles. Not exactly just a "what I did to mine today" kinda post, but what I've done in the past month, and what's to come this month.
I began with some light paint correction - scratch x, polish, and wax. The paint was pretty dull looking when I first got it.
Next, I ordered the OEM trailer hitch and trailer wiring kit, OEM ipod kit (so I can use either my ipod or one of those bluetooth adapters), and changed out all the outside halogen bulbs (parking/turn bulbs) for LED. Changed out the side markers that were cracked for clear LED ones.
I've got some other OEM accessories I ordered that it was missing - roof rack, rubber floor mats, etc.
Today though, I'm changing out the front lower control arms. The left side has been clunking slightly since I got it.
Still winter in Hatcher Pass I see. But then again, I escaped te 907 14 years ago and it snowed here in northern Michigan yesterday.
If I was still there with an LR3 I'd be going up to Monument up by Eureka, Jim Creek, Purinton Creek, just in case you needed some bad ideas
I could never get my mirror buttons to work with the newer openers either. I used a remote I got off ebay for like $10 and tied it to my opener, nor glorious but it works.
If you have a newer garage door opener, I discovered the LR3 mirror wouldn't work with my opener from 2020. It's a security 2.0 and no matter what I did the mirror wouldn't learn the code from the remote. You need to get the "compatability bridge" which is about $30.00 I think it was. After I got it, I can use the mirror buttons with my garage door opener.
Thank you. That’s the issue. 18 years of Homelink progress I guess. They are now $50 on Amazon or $40+shipping elsewhere. I’m good for now but may someday pick one up.
confirmed hardwired Bluetooth works but having trouble stuffing all the wires back there and reinstalling the aux port/power port panel. I’ll mess with some more but I may need to pull the center console and fridge out to rearrange the wires.
Still winter in Hatcher Pass I see. But then again, I escaped te 907 14 years ago and it snowed here in northern Michigan yesterday.
If I was still there with an LR3 I'd be going up to Monument up by Eureka, Jim Creek, Purinton Creek, just in case you needed some bad ideas
I've been wanting to go to Jim Creek, but the control arm issue has kinda put a damper on that. Ended up having to cut the back bolt on the LCA. Of all the years I used to work as a mechanic, I don't think I ever had issues with suspension bolts... def had to torch some exhaust bolts to get them out though. I'm at the point where I'm just gonna pay a shop to do the other side , then get the alignment done.
I'm waiting on the summer tires to come in (ordered some terraincontact a/t). I kinda wanted something a bit more aggressive, but I travel a lot for work.
Originally Posted by jdivitto
Thank you. That’s the issue. 18 years of Homelink progress I guess. They are now $50 on Amazon or $40+shipping elsewhere. I’m good for now but may someday pick one up.
I just follow the extra step for rolling codes and had no issue with setting things up even with a new garage head unit. With that said, I also have HomeKit so generally I am just telling Siri to open and close the garage way more than using the button on my mirror.
The rolling code step won't work if your garage opener is security 2.0 , I definitely tried this over and over again, just would not learn the code from the remote. From the research I've done, Land Rovers from 2014-2015 and under won't work with the newer security 2.0 since the mirrors are using an older homelink version that came out before the use of security 2.0 openers.
I've had a blocked front RH sunroof drain for a while and figured i fit it over summer, that didn't happen so now that its autumn and getting a bit of rain i thought i better do it before winter comes.
I put it off because the options for accessing the drain weren't great , space under the dash where i can feel the elbow is very tight and with a snorkel it a pita to remove it and the guard liner to get to it behind the air intake grille area.
Looking at the head lining i thought i might be able to pull just the corner down if i remove the sun visor and the roof grab handle, turns out this is the easiest way to access the hose to unblock it once you also remove the A pillar trim.
I pushed some 4mm flexible plastic rod down and was able to push the blockage out then a quick blow thru and its draining again, another maintenance job off the list.
I knew my hoses and elbows were good otherwise this would be more time consuming especially if you need to remove the CJB which i had already done to the LH side to check the elbow.
I would try a pick and pull, I bet you can get the battery hold down bracket for cheap. A new set will cost about $90 USD.
Today I swapped in yet another OEM lower steering shaft. I seem to burn through these on a two year cycle. It may be the off-roading I do, not sure. When it comes to driving I learned long, long ago to never turn the steering wheel unless the vehicle is moving if even a little. That way there is very little stress on the steering parts like the tie-rods. So I have engrained that into my behavior so I know it is not from cranking hard on things. Plus the joint is before the rack so there is no hydraulic pressure on that joint...... Anyway, takes me about a half hour to do them now. So there is that. lol
, then get the alignment done. 
