What did you do to your LR3 today?
#51
#54
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tedro27 (01-09-2015)
#56
melted and warped aluminum bits
Bleeding the air out of the system takes longer than changing the thermostat. I would say it takes perhaps a couple of hours until you get to know the tricks.
During the refill process and after engine start, you have to have the heater, (both heaters if you have the rear system as well), running full blast to assist in water circulation thru the hoses. The air bleed valve tee, (jpg below), on the top of the engine hoses is where the air is to bleed from as you keep the overflow tank topped up.
It could take two hours but that is less time than it takes to replace various melted and warped aluminum bits within the engine.
During the refill process and after engine start, you have to have the heater, (both heaters if you have the rear system as well), running full blast to assist in water circulation thru the hoses. The air bleed valve tee, (jpg below), on the top of the engine hoses is where the air is to bleed from as you keep the overflow tank topped up.
It could take two hours but that is less time than it takes to replace various melted and warped aluminum bits within the engine.
The following users liked this post:
tedro27 (01-09-2015)
#58
The following users liked this post:
tedro27 (01-09-2015)
#59
#60
New Aux Port & Brass T-bleeder
I installed a new aux port in the front. I tapped into the rear aux port by splicing into the rear aux wires. I had to remove the whole center console to route the wires from the front to back. I also sourced out a new t-bleeder made of brass. It cost me under $30. There was a company online that was selling them for $50, what a ripoff. My t bleeder also has a better bleed screw on top. Just press and air releases. No need to unscrew. Sourced the parts on ebay. Thought I'd share in case anyone wanted to replace their brittle plastic t-bleeder before it crumbles.