What fluids to do first?
#1
What fluids to do first?
I just purchased my 08 LR3 115K on the odomotor. I don't really have great records on fluids so I am planning on changing out all of them over the next few months.
Engine Oil (Im a Mobil 1 synthetic believer, do LR3s like this oil)
Transmission Fluid
Front Diff
Rear Diff
T case?
Coolant (was done I believe at 75k)
Also Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid?
Power Steering Fluid?
I would like to do this work my self but am happy to pay an Indy shop if I am getting to far over my head or have more money than time (not really more money but you know what I mean)
Thanks for the info
Engine Oil (Im a Mobil 1 synthetic believer, do LR3s like this oil)
Transmission Fluid
Front Diff
Rear Diff
T case?
Coolant (was done I believe at 75k)
Also Spark Plugs
Brake Fluid?
Power Steering Fluid?
I would like to do this work my self but am happy to pay an Indy shop if I am getting to far over my head or have more money than time (not really more money but you know what I mean)
Thanks for the info
#2
#3
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206dawgfan (03-08-2018)
#4
If it was me I'd:
Have the gearbox treated to a mega-flush by your nearest LR independant shop. A full flush of the gearbox should be the first big fluid change to do. If the gearbox has not been looked after in the past you can get problems starting when the Torque Converter (TC) starts to go. Worst case senario then would be a new TC and gearbox (mega bucks).
Next in order;
-the engine oil (any good quality 5w30oil),
-transfer case (but ensure you use the recommended oil, Shell TF 0753 or other specified by Land Rover, it's not just any old gear oil) and
-both diffs but here again if you have the electronic rear locking diff be sure to use a recommended oil not a standard diff oil.
I'm sure others here will be able to give further guidance on the oils available to you (some of which differ from those here in the UK)
If you do the PAS fluid, go for the cold climate fluid recommended. You'll know if it needs doing as it’s meant to be a clear green colour, but usually by the time it reaches 100,000mls it’s so dirty that you'd be forgive for not being able to tell.
Brake fluid I'd also do, but to do it properly you need one of the diagnostic tools to operate the ABS valves or a full change can't be completed at home. You’ll be able to remove about 90% without activating the valves and for many that’s good enough.
Coolant is an easy one and not as vital as the oils so could be done any time.
And lastly on your list, the plugs, certainly check their condition and gaps but if they are performing OK I'd leave them for the time being.
I'd also check the auxillary belts.
Have the gearbox treated to a mega-flush by your nearest LR independant shop. A full flush of the gearbox should be the first big fluid change to do. If the gearbox has not been looked after in the past you can get problems starting when the Torque Converter (TC) starts to go. Worst case senario then would be a new TC and gearbox (mega bucks).
Next in order;
-the engine oil (any good quality 5w30oil),
-transfer case (but ensure you use the recommended oil, Shell TF 0753 or other specified by Land Rover, it's not just any old gear oil) and
-both diffs but here again if you have the electronic rear locking diff be sure to use a recommended oil not a standard diff oil.
I'm sure others here will be able to give further guidance on the oils available to you (some of which differ from those here in the UK)
If you do the PAS fluid, go for the cold climate fluid recommended. You'll know if it needs doing as it’s meant to be a clear green colour, but usually by the time it reaches 100,000mls it’s so dirty that you'd be forgive for not being able to tell.
Brake fluid I'd also do, but to do it properly you need one of the diagnostic tools to operate the ABS valves or a full change can't be completed at home. You’ll be able to remove about 90% without activating the valves and for many that’s good enough.
Coolant is an easy one and not as vital as the oils so could be done any time.
And lastly on your list, the plugs, certainly check their condition and gaps but if they are performing OK I'd leave them for the time being.
I'd also check the auxillary belts.
Last edited by Alphamale; 03-08-2018 at 03:39 PM.
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206dawgfan (03-08-2018)
#6
Mobile 1 is a good oil, or Castrol Edge Syn.
Royal purple is fine for the open diff, the elocker the opinions seem to stay with LR fluid
Opinions vary greatly on trans fluid. Redline, Royal Purple and Land Rover only
#7
#8
#9
REAR; open diff. 1.1 litres (1.9 pints) (1.15 US quarts) or electronic torque managed (ETM) diff 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts)
FRONT; 0.61 litres (1.07 pints) (0.64 US quarts)
Though having said that there is some debate about the wisdom of holding to LR's specifications here and some owners fill to the fill plug. Personally I see their point, but keep to the levels a per secifications.
Last edited by Alphamale; 03-11-2018 at 05:49 PM.
#10
My research has found Mercon SP XT-6-QSP is the same as the LR/ZF spec fluid except for the color. BMW uses the same fluid in certain trannys. I found a Bimmer forum that had a member who sent the ZF spec fluid and the Mercon fluid in for analysis. According to Blackstone Labs the two samples had VERY minor differences, but were close enough to be considered the same fluid from different production runs.
I used Royal Purple Syncromax for the transfer case which has the same spec as the LR/Shell fluid.
I used Royal Purple Syncromax for the transfer case which has the same spec as the LR/Shell fluid.
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