Windshield cowl change
#21
not quite right
Many thanks! So looking over the PDF it looks like the new (more pointed) clip will pierce the adhesive tape maintaining the seal. Does that sound right?
Yesterday I looked my cowl and sure enough it's starting to bow out on the passenger side.
Very excited to be driving it again as my daily. I have so much to research here. I have the 19" rims and in about a month will need tires (Pirelli Scorpion Zeros last time and were fine), I have to address the delaminated A-Pillar trim, search E-Bay for a replacement Nav computer (no nav fitted error), and will soon lube the door handles (squeak is awful). Other than that, I'd like to bring it back to it's former glory. The dull radio ***** bug me and as awesome as the leather is I think it can use some cleaning and treatment (it has never had it done). Otherwise running great.
Yesterday I looked my cowl and sure enough it's starting to bow out on the passenger side.
Very excited to be driving it again as my daily. I have so much to research here. I have the 19" rims and in about a month will need tires (Pirelli Scorpion Zeros last time and were fine), I have to address the delaminated A-Pillar trim, search E-Bay for a replacement Nav computer (no nav fitted error), and will soon lube the door handles (squeak is awful). Other than that, I'd like to bring it back to it's former glory. The dull radio ***** bug me and as awesome as the leather is I think it can use some cleaning and treatment (it has never had it done). Otherwise running great.
Re the A pillars, I think the revision calls for one to tape over a lower hole with a duct tape like sealing tape and also cut off the pointy guide bit of plastic tit on the A pillar - I think that is what it is really saying. Others may correct me on that. I think that hole you tape over is the one guys use to feed a antenna or power wire thru from inside to outside and then up onto a roof rack. Water follows in the opposite direction.
The quick fix re the cowl plastic bowing is black 3M electrical tape covering the top of the plastic and the glass. The 3M tape properly applied looks near stock, seals perfectly, removes easily, (use far East source tape and suffer accordingly), and reduces wind noise. You can also use it on the A pillar verticals where the glass meets the plastic.
If you are purchasing new tyres, you might consider trying to find official 18" LR3 rims - they are almost hens teeth to find as they are both rare and popular. Tyre selection is better and more vertical rubber is always better for rough road conditions. Stick with official LR stock rims as the LR3 rims are heavier rated, (940 kg), than any other LR rim including the Sport. You should see the 940 kg marking on the back side of your 19" rims as well.
#22
Got all the parts in and decided to tackle this, this morning.
I'll have picturers up later this afternoon. Since the wife was driving the car all this time I only thought to remind her of service appointments. This was the first time in 6+ years I looked under the hood (and feel guilty enough already). I couldn't believe all the dirt. The engine bay looks like a car that has sat in a field for 20 years. I also found the battery box not installed correctly.
I'm heading back to the garage to fab up some sort of cover for the HVAC hole under the cowl or maybe just lay a couple strips of duct tape (not sure yet).
Since the cowl trim was our second replacement I chose to paint it this time with Rustoleum black trim/bumper paint. It's been drying for 1.5hrs now and a little more while I clean up under the hood. I have pics of that also and I'll post them after I get it all back together.
After hearing about 3M electrical tape I decided to grab some 3M trim tape. I'm going to apply this only to the warping area and that should hold it down nicely. Tricky part will be to figure out how close to the rubber wipe on the cowl I can get before the thickness of the tape causes it to not sit tight to the glass.
Stay tuned...
I'll have picturers up later this afternoon. Since the wife was driving the car all this time I only thought to remind her of service appointments. This was the first time in 6+ years I looked under the hood (and feel guilty enough already). I couldn't believe all the dirt. The engine bay looks like a car that has sat in a field for 20 years. I also found the battery box not installed correctly.
I'm heading back to the garage to fab up some sort of cover for the HVAC hole under the cowl or maybe just lay a couple strips of duct tape (not sure yet).
Since the cowl trim was our second replacement I chose to paint it this time with Rustoleum black trim/bumper paint. It's been drying for 1.5hrs now and a little more while I clean up under the hood. I have pics of that also and I'll post them after I get it all back together.
After hearing about 3M electrical tape I decided to grab some 3M trim tape. I'm going to apply this only to the warping area and that should hold it down nicely. Tricky part will be to figure out how close to the rubber wipe on the cowl I can get before the thickness of the tape causes it to not sit tight to the glass.
Stay tuned...
#23
#24
Do no pry on the glass!
Yes, but ....
That is the correct tool, but do not rotate on the windscreen glass or you will be replacing the windscreen as well.
Pry and lift from the mirror side, not the windscreen side.
Cowl removal link
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Upcoming project
A pillar LR pdf
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...water_leak.pdf
That is the correct tool, but do not rotate on the windscreen glass or you will be replacing the windscreen as well.
Pry and lift from the mirror side, not the windscreen side.
Cowl removal link
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Upcoming project
A pillar LR pdf
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...water_leak.pdf
#25
#27
A-Pillar trim with my hands. Way too easy. grabbed it near the top from the windshield side and pulled a little at first and after seeing it flex easy enough I pulled a little harder and it came right off. I broke a couple of clips but the new one has them preinstalled. I also bought the clip upgrade kit. I used the tape that came with it to cover the lower elongated hole then applied a little RTV sealant to each clip just in case.
The cowl removal is super easy. Much easier than I would have thought. Removing the wiper arms was the hardest part but I simply just pulled them off without issue. Because of the cone shape, of the shaft the wiper arm mounts to, you need to just pull it off straight. The thing is that the spring on the wiper arm fights against you. What I did was to press down (against the spring) which relieved the side tension on the shaft then pulled up and they came right off.
No trim removal or pulley removal tool was used.
The cowl comes off easier than the a-pillars. After removing the weather strip on the engine side just grab it at the windshield and pull. It won't matter where on the cowl or how if you are replacing with a new one. It pops right off with ease.
I made a fairly clever cover I think for the HVAC air inlet on the firewall just below the windshield and I owe you all pictures and I'll try to get them up tonight after work. This was real easy to do but requires a little patience.
Anyway, good luck.
Drew
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Greg9504 (04-01-2015)
#28
#29
speaking of warping....are the new cowls PERFECTLY straight? The one I have (yeah the ten year old one) is almost un-warped. There is one small bit of warppage....so I am not compelled to replace the cowl unless I know the new one is perfect.
I have had a cowling of sorts made where water ingress is possible, so changing it would be purely for cosmetic purposes.
I have had a cowling of sorts made where water ingress is possible, so changing it would be purely for cosmetic purposes.
#30