Windshield cowl change
#51
#52
So... a word of caution on the windscreen replacement. I had mine done last year and I called around to all of the highly rated glass places in the DC area. Nobody seemed to really have any experience with Land Rover and it seems that each glass shop only deals with certain brands of glass. I finally settled on one place that told me they use Pilkington. Don't know if the LR3 is a very difficult removal/installation or whether the company I chose just wasn't as good as their ratings implied, but they managed to add two cracks to my dashboard while removing the old windshield and installing the new. Luckily, they are in a spot where you can only seem them from the outside, but realize that this is a possibility.
#53
#54
no heat rejection glass available
I did enquire as I really wanted heat resisting Infra Red rejecting glass similar to what GM and Ford have available on their higher end vehicles.
It seems the EU manufacturers are still reacting to their negative experience a few years back when they put IR rejecting stuff in the glass and at that time, the technology also rejected those autobahn radio pass readers and cell phone signals. Also since the sun rarely shines in the EU, (cloudy most of the time), there is no great push to reintroduce the improved IR rejection glass that allows radio signals to now pass thru.
As such, for my side windows, I installed a clear IR rejection film but film on the windscreen is not the best idea.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Power Window and Door Lock Circuits/LLumar AIR80 Air Blue 78 windscreen film IR reduction metal oxide
#56
see post #24
I am presuming you are asking "How do you replace the plastic cowling on your LR3?"
If so, go back to post #24 in this thread and then check out the link within that post. The answer is all there along with lots of picture.
I note this is your first post here so welcome.
Sometimes it can be helpful if one reviews all the posts in a thread as often the knowledge is already within.
Over time, you will probably find it worthwhile to read all the posts on all the pages; it will take weeks but you can pick up a lot of info that will be useful for future problems - some much that you can use now to eliminate future concern.
If so, go back to post #24 in this thread and then check out the link within that post. The answer is all there along with lots of picture.
I note this is your first post here so welcome.
Sometimes it can be helpful if one reviews all the posts in a thread as often the knowledge is already within.
Over time, you will probably find it worthwhile to read all the posts on all the pages; it will take weeks but you can pick up a lot of info that will be useful for future problems - some much that you can use now to eliminate future concern.
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unseenone (09-06-2015)
#57
In a very general sense, it involves removing your wiper arms and pulling the cowl off, after removing the rubber hood seal, and sneaking the whole cowl under the A pillar plastic trim on either side. It's not a hard job at all, just make sure you snap in the new one completely. I got away without breaking anything.
Update to anyone who was interested, a few months on and I have warping in the same place, just not as bad. My cowl never sealed perfectly so I would follow the advice of others and hit it with some marine silicone upon fresh install. That plus the HVAC intake shield mod.
I did finally add some reference photos to the original post.
Last edited by DavC; 09-09-2015 at 12:43 PM.
#58
There is a "how to" with pictures I posted some time ago, I think it was linked in this thread. Here it is again.. You can consider adding a bead of RTV II Clear to the inside top edge at install time, it may buy you some extra time. Bear in mind, you could break or crack the A pillar covers when you take them apart. If they're original, you may want to consider changing them all at once.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Upcoming project
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Upcoming project
#59
My custom deflector using a piece of aluminum I had. The washers I used had a bonded rubber gasket. I chose to use allen head bolts thinking a curved allen wrench would be easier to squeeze through a small opening. It worked out just fine. What you don't see here is a string I tied to the opposite end of the allen wrench just in case I dropped it on top of the air filter. This way I could just easily pull it back up. The pic of the bolts shows a piece of rubber sheet and a larger washer. I decided to go this route because the outer most hole is elongated. I also put locktight on the threads and double nutted it with a lock washer in between. All of that plus the rubber gaskets means it should never come loose on it's own.
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