Regarding the dull radio *****, do a Google for LR3 radio *****. I think you will find a couple of aftermarket either solid metal or metal caps that can look pretty good. The stock "rubber" ***** just pull off and there are apparently two different shaft designs so you have to pull a **** off first, determine what shaft design you have and order accordingly.

Re the A pillars, I think the revision calls for one to tape over a lower hole with a duct tape like sealing tape and also cut off the pointy guide bit of plastic tit on the A pillar - I think that is what it is really saying. Others may correct me on that. I think that hole you tape over is the one guys use to feed a antenna or power wire thru from inside to outside and then up onto a roof rack. Water follows in the opposite direction.

The quick fix re the cowl plastic bowing is black 3M electrical tape covering the top of the plastic and the glass. The 3M tape properly applied looks near stock, seals perfectly, removes easily, (use far East source tape and suffer accordingly), and reduces wind noise. You can also use it on the A pillar verticals where the glass meets the plastic.

If you are purchasing new tyres, you might consider trying to find official 18" LR3 rims - they are almost hens teeth to find as they are both rare and popular. Tyre selection is better and more vertical rubber is always better for rough road conditions. Stick with official LR stock rims as the LR3 rims are heavier rated, (940 kg), than any other LR rim including the Sport. You should see the 940 kg marking on the back side of your 19" rims as well.

 

Got all the parts in and decided to tackle this, this morning.


I'll have picturers up later this afternoon. Since the wife was driving the car all this time I only thought to remind her of service appointments. This was the first time in 6+ years I looked under the hood (and feel guilty enough already). I couldn't believe all the dirt. The engine bay looks like a car that has sat in a field for 20 years. I also found the battery box not installed correctly.


I'm heading back to the garage to fab up some sort of cover for the HVAC hole under the cowl or maybe just lay a couple strips of duct tape (not sure yet).


Since the cowl trim was our second replacement I chose to paint it this time with Rustoleum black trim/bumper paint. It's been drying for 1.5hrs now and a little more while I clean up under the hood. I have pics of that also and I'll post them after I get it all back together.


After hearing about 3M electrical tape I decided to grab some 3M trim tape. I'm going to apply this only to the warping area and that should hold it down nicely. Tricky part will be to figure out how close to the rubber wipe on the cowl I can get before the thickness of the tape causes it to not sit tight to the glass.


Stay tuned...

 

I have a new cowl waiting to be installed... one question:
To get the A pillar trim off - did you guys just pull up on the trim with your hands or work a trim puller tool in there?

Thanks

 

Yes, but ....

That is the correct tool, but do not rotate on the windscreen glass or you will be replacing the windscreen as well.

Pry and lift from the mirror side, not the windscreen side.

Cowl removal link

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Upcoming project


A pillar LR pdf

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...water_leak.pdf

 

I resemble that remark.... Thanks bbyer.

Also -- it should take very very little pressure do not break your wiper motor... the main thing is to take the pressure off the spring load by hand, that will help it come off easier.

 

When I am removing the wiper blade arms or to change the blade rubbers, I set a thick coat under the wiper blade area so it the blade arm snaps back, the glass is protected.

Thanks for the reply back and good luck.

 

A-Pillar trim with my hands. Way too easy. grabbed it near the top from the windshield side and pulled a little at first and after seeing it flex easy enough I pulled a little harder and it came right off. I broke a couple of clips but the new one has them preinstalled. I also bought the clip upgrade kit. I used the tape that came with it to cover the lower elongated hole then applied a little RTV sealant to each clip just in case.


The cowl removal is super easy. Much easier than I would have thought. Removing the wiper arms was the hardest part but I simply just pulled them off without issue. Because of the cone shape, of the shaft the wiper arm mounts to, you need to just pull it off straight. The thing is that the spring on the wiper arm fights against you. What I did was to press down (against the spring) which relieved the side tension on the shaft then pulled up and they came right off.


No trim removal or pulley removal tool was used.


The cowl comes off easier than the a-pillars. After removing the weather strip on the engine side just grab it at the windshield and pull. It won't matter where on the cowl or how if you are replacing with a new one. It pops right off with ease.


I made a fairly clever cover I think for the HVAC air inlet on the firewall just below the windshield and I owe you all pictures and I'll try to get them up tonight after work. This was real easy to do but requires a little patience.


Anyway, good luck.


Drew

 

I do suggest a bead of Marine clear RTV sealant, across the area where the cabin air inlet is, you know, where it warps.... This may help it from warping and keep water out for longer.

You should be able to get it under the rubber flap, so it's not visible

 

speaking of warping....are the new cowls PERFECTLY straight? The one I have (yeah the ten year old one) is almost un-warped. There is one small bit of warppage....so I am not compelled to replace the cowl unless I know the new one is perfect.

I have had a cowling of sorts made where water ingress is possible, so changing it would be purely for cosmetic purposes.

 

They typically come unwarped. It did not take long for it to warp again in the same place. If it came warped, you could refuse it.