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Windshield cowl change

Old Apr 4, 2015 | 08:07 PM
  #41  
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The middle pics shows it lifted by design. I wanted to not slow the flow of air too much and still deflect any water. The last picture is showing that I changed my mind on the 3M adhesive tape and chose to just use the silicone. I put it on then lifted it off to see just where the silicone touched the glass and it was right on the very edge. I would suggest taking a good look at this pic then move the bead of silicone closer to the edge by maybe 1/8" and it should then seal perfectly on the glass.
 
Attached Thumbnails Windshield cowl change-017.jpg   Windshield cowl change-018.jpg   Windshield cowl change-020.jpg  

Last edited by drew888; Apr 4, 2015 at 08:18 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2015 | 09:02 PM
  #42  
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Default Water deflector looks good.

I am wondering why LR did not do something like that instead of designing a water scoop?

When I come to think of it, what to other manufacturers do?

How do they design their air inlets ducting?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 07:47 PM
  #43  
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I want to know what the 2 holes are for like they made it to have a deflector and did not instal it
 
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Old Apr 5, 2015 | 08:54 PM
  #44  
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Default Easier for the water to get out or in?

I just assumed the holes were for the factory lift equipment but I suppose they could be for letting creek water in sooner?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2015 | 09:14 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by houm_wa
@DavC: I've already addressed the water ingress issue with jerry-rigged baffling to guide the water away from the heater.
Ahh gotcha. You've got me thinking about it now, I like the solutions I'm seeing on this thread. Will try to address in the future.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2015 | 09:20 AM
  #46  
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Guess I should pull the cabin filters to see if we are still getting water, I may need to make a deflector
 
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #47  
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The cowl part number has been replaced with:
LR055193
 
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 03:23 PM
  #48  
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Same crummy part, different number? Or has it been improved?
 
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 10:25 PM
  #49  
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Same part. No idea about longevity with the warping, I'll keep an eye on it.

It's amusing... Land Rover actually thought a bit about the issue of water ingress at the air vent under the cowl as there’s the water shedder (diffuser?) component on the underside of the cowl that blocks direct ingress if water was to enter the vent holes on the cowl. Now, the warping allowing water directly in is another story. Ugh.

Also, when I replaced mine today I found numerous previous repair removals of the a-pillars as most of the clips and mounts are broken. I had enough new clips to get me by for now, but it's obvious I need at least one new pillar. Somebody before me did one hell of a $4itty job. If the pillars don't sit right, there's a good chance of ingress at the top where they meet the windshield.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 11:11 PM
  #50  
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Default new A pillars have rubber strips to glass

When I installed a new windscreen, I also installed new cowl plastic and both A pillar plastic covers.

The new covers included rubber filler strips to close the gap between the inside edge of the plastic and the glass - now no wind noise when at speed.

Well I had eliminated the wind noise by applying 3M black electrical tape vertically to the gap but with the new A pillar covers, the tape was not needed any longer.
 
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