Just picked up a 2008 LR3 4.4 200k

yes I should have checked it better, yes I’m an idiot.
got that out of the way.

the compressor ran fine (sounded ‘rough’ but ran) on the test drive, went up to off road mode, down to access mode, drove fine (30min test drive)
noticed the compressor box was held shut with wire, clips were broken so I made a (wrong) assumption that the wire was holding the box shut.

2 days and about 150 miles later and I start it up, front end is low. suspension fault light comes on
bouncing down the drive like a pogo stick.

back is up fine- front is low.

order GAP tool.

shows code- C1A20-64(68) pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - algorithm based failure, signal plausibility failure.

Ok. , clear code and try again a few days later.
fills up. Front goes up, drives ok. Compressor still kicking in way more than I think it should.

2 hours after turning off and pulling fuses for EAS and it’s low front high rear. (The front always lowers when switched off- evenly- not off centre- did soap test on bags- no bubbles)

decide to pull the box open so I can check the compressor and see if it has correct firmware etc.

not good. My assumption and laziness has bit me in the wallet.

mount bracket is cracked open, compressor is being supported by the plastic box. Not the bracket.

i jerry rig it back onto the top of the mount at least so I can function test it.

now on start up the compressor runs for about 3 seconds. Stops and throws code-
C1A27-14(AF) compressor circuit- general electrical failure- circuit short to ground or open.

double checked all the plugs (inc the 60A fuse link), fuses and exposed cables to check I didn’t trap, pull or expose a wire. Nothing.

any thoughts on possible repair/ diagnosis routes?

 

Find a complete compressor with bracket at a wrecker or online, if the compressor is still working then service it and weld up a new steel bracket.
Get a spray bottle with soapy water and check for leaks around the valve blocks,strut air lines and compressor lines.

 

Did you tug on the connectors to see if maybe one was not "clipped" together all the way and maybe you working with it caused further separation of the connection? Although I am surprised it runs for even 3 seconds with that code. You could also try swapping the relay and see if anything changes. Also for giggles check the fuses? I think there is a square high amp one. I have twice seen them fail in a way that they seem okay until a load is put on then they heat up and fail. Once cool, they connect a little again.

 

New question- related.

for a new bracket in from Atlantic British.
the small hole at the front isn’t threaded?
the one I just removed had a screw (looks like a self tapper judging by the thread pitch)
but this new one is just a hole

Old

New

 

It should be threaded as that is one of the bolt holes for the lower cover.

 

This has a cast ‘pocket’ below it, so it’s a blind hole

i ‘threaded’ it with the screw that came out of the old bracket. Slowly and carefully lol

 

That looks like the bracket I removed from my LR3, in pieces! I found a new bracket on ebay for $26 that turned out to be a LR part which surprised me a bit, And yeah I had driven around with my compressor wired uo into the box.
That hole has no threads, as you did you use the old screw to tap the threads. It was a bit perplexing until I got the screw out of what was left of my bracket.
I woukd check to see if one of the lines to the valve block got kinked while the compressor was hanging, might also check the lines out of the rear side of the compressor.