I know I know many threads over this, but this is getting very frustrating. A/C systems should not be this difficult.
Synopsis:
I've replaced the compressor (twice), condenser with dryer, and forward TXV. I didn't realize this was a dual system with two TXV and 2 evaporators. Pressures are about 40-50 Low Side High side 200 0n the high side.
The Story:
Vehicle had a leak, tried to service it with freon and the compressor would never kick on and take freon. Everything checked out good up to the compressor so I replaced the compressor. I pulled an 8 hour vacuum with a 12 hour leak down check and everything is good. Tried charging the the system and the compressor kicked on like it should, but I never could get the vehicle to blow cold air, and I couldn't get the pressures right at this time. So I stopped everything and decided to replace the condenser/dryer thinking maybe there might be a clog in that system. Then I decided that if i'm doing that lets change the TXV. So I did and I tell you it's super fun pulling the dash apart to replace the front TXV. Again at this time I did not realize there were 2 TXV.
Now in removing the condenser/radiator I of course damaged the freaking radiator requiring that to be replaced.
With everything back together I did a vacuum on the system, split between two days approximately 10 hours total just to make sure we have no moisture. 12+ hours on a leak down test and it held perfectly.
Now at this point I start the vehicle, and I'm trying to do 2 task at once charge the a/c system and bleed all the air out engine coolant system. I stopped dealing with the a/c for the moment and tried getting the coolant system figured out. I followed a shop manual for bleeding the coolant system, but over a hours a day and about 3 days I thought I finally got the coolant system bled.
I tried for a few hours to get the a/c pressures right and I just couldn't seem to get there. Finally after about 2 days of doing this I contacted the company I bought the compressor from and they seemed to think the new compressor was faulty. So the sent me a new (reman) compressor and I swapped it again. Pulled another vacuum and did a leak down. This time when I charged the system I went super slow on charging the system. I'd charge and let everything settle, charge settle etc.... After about 400-500 grammes of 1234yf my pressures were where they should be, but now my vents are blowing 100F ( I started out at 80F). I played with, turn the a/c off and on a couple times and ran the aux system maybe thinking it needs to flow through there also. At this point i'm like wth do I do. I read up on this particular set up and realized that now at this point I have 2 TXV, 2 evaporators, because I was thinking maybe the evaporator is not doing it's job. No I'm think maybe the rear TXV needs replaced . After studying a little more I don't see that being the issue bc it splits at the A/C bay and both zones are doing the same thing.
Here is where it get interesting. My pressures are stabilized and I was messing with the climate controls. All the sudden I hear the engine surging and the pressures were going all over the place Like really high as if the compressor was kicking off and on. After a few seconds of WTH is going on I noticed the engine coolant gauge was rising so I then realized the compressor was kicking off due to the engine running hotter than normal operation temps. So I let the vehicle cool off for probably 15 mins. Sitting there not knowing what to do next and how much am I going to have to shell out to someone to miss diagnose this issue I was like well let's start it up again and see what it does. Pressures were about 40 L and 150-175 H (ambient about 80F). I was sitting in the car and all the sudden the thermometer went from 100F to 50F within probably less than 2 minutes. I was relieved, but just as fast as it went down, it literally went right back up. This is where I'm at.
Is this possibly a fan issue? My next plan is to drive it around a little bit and see what happens. I did hook up my scan tool and the left blend door had a weird reading compared to the right and rear. I'm not going to go into detail about this, bc the dash is apart and I visually checked to make sure those were working properly.
Since I concluded replacing the rear TXV i'm trying to narrow down what is common to both systems which would be
Compressor, Condenser/dryer, and the lines. Only other thing now is maybe the fan blowing across the condenser. My concern is I don't this was a problem before although I do remember sitting still for a while the air does not blow as cold.
Phew that was a little long winded. If anyone has any insight i'm all ears.

 

Are you using genuine parts or aftermarket? Main dealer replaced the front valve dash out and it never worked correctly. Replaced it myself without removing the dash and at my expense and it's worked correctly ever since.

 

I would second guess the expansion valve, but why is the rear blowing just as hot? Also how in the world did you replace that valve without removing the upper dash cover? I did not buy a genuine land rover part.

 

Standby:
I followed my gut and checked the fan and it's not coming on. Checked and I have P0528-00 fan speed sensor circuit no signal/P0850-00 P/N switch input circuit/P0483-36 Fan performance codes. Opening up to check the connector and start shooting wires. Checking relays and fuses also. Also just FYI when I started the vehicle today my pressure were at 10 L and 160 H so I shot it with a tad of freon and sat in the vehicle for a moment to see if the temps dropped. They didn't so I went out and then I was reading 50 L and like 350 H then that's when I noticed the fan wasn't turning. I'll advise what I find after I find some schematics.

 

which fan? main radiator/condenser fan or internal air circulation fan? Also with pressures like that, you should probably calculate the superheat fofr the system to ensure you do not give your new compressor a liquid slug...

 

The radiator/condenser fan. I did some quick voltage and ground checks and everything is good up to the fan. I decided to not pull the battery and check continuity between the ECM and the fan connector and or the engine control module cooling fan motor. I opted to use my scan tool. Reading live data I can see that the module is telling the fan to turn on, viscous control is also reading that it's trying to do something and 0 rpm on the fan which is obvious because it's not spinning. The fan is trying to move if you watch it it'll creep. I took a 15 sec video and it maybe moved an inch. And no obstruction causing the fan to have too much resistance.
Also when the vehicle is first started up and the A/C is on, the temp will drop a good 20 degrees, but I guess with no air coming across the condenser the air is not cooling back down. I could take it for a drive and it'll probably cool down, but then I worry about overheating the engine.
Fingers crossed this is what my issue is. Seems a little silly that the fan could cause this and why all the sudden is it not working, or has it's performance started degrading and coincidently it stopped now. Have noticed that recently at a stand still the a/c would start to warm up so maybe it is it.

 

Do you have pictures of replacing the expansion valve without removing the dash?

 

Yes, it's in one of my threads, I'll have to find it if you don't first. Also a faulty fan will have an impact on AC operation, they also all work together with the coolant circuit as well.

 

Installed the new fan and now we're blowing 42F in 95F+ so I'm good to go there, but during that I found the upper radiator hose connector had a crack the length of the fitting. So I replaced it and today went for a drive, stopped to get gas and smoke was pouring out from the hood. Pop the hood and the lower hose popped off from the fitting. I was able to re install it and I think what happened I didn't have the spring clamp quite in the correct place. Now it's at my in-laws since they were right around the corner. Spent about an hour trying to get the air out of the system. I had to leave it be to get to work, but does anyone have a trick to bleeding the coolant system quicker? I have a few ideas I may try tomorrow, but just throwing it out there while I was on here updating my A/C issue.