Got pictures of the leak location?

 

Kim, if there is fluid is pink/red coming off the transmission, that’s likely coolant. The way the valley is on those engines, coolant will pour off the back. Your back crossover could also be leaking (it’s an inlet pipe). The transmission fluid on these is clear. Careful on these engines to bleed the coolant lines so there’s no air lock. Also pressure test the coolant lines to make sure there’s no other leaks.

 

We had a coolant leak in our 2011 RRS. I believe it's the same platform as the LR4. I could not see the coolant leak but could smell it. After we had it towed home one day, I started doing some research and found that the front and rear crossover tubes should be replaced. When we tore it apart, I found that both tubes that attach to the block under the intake had broken off. I had to pry out the o-rings and remaining plastic to get it out from the block. Total hard failure!! I went ahead and replaced the rear as well. Too far down the rabbit hole not to replace all these plastic parts!! Replaced the water pump as well and the oil cooler tube. Replacing these were not that bad of a job.
Not to jump this thread, but is there a way to get the serpentine belt back on without removing the fan? Did your husband just set the belt to the side? I had to replace ours because I could see cracks in it and it has 99,000 miles on it. Again, too far down the rabbit hole not to replace all this stuff!

 

Buy a fan clutch tool.

 

You have to buy LR012636. It's a hose assembly (water pump hose kit) with the 90 degree piece. About $15.00. Replacing mine as well.

 

I have two comments:

1. Aftermarket parts are less expensive and lower quality. For many situations, they are the perfect solution. Not for LR4 water pumps. I replaced my water pump in December with a cheap aftermarket from eBay assuming it would last a couple of years. It lasted 6 months! This time I got the Pierburg OEM from JLR. It wasn't worth the $100 to do the job twice.

2. The first time I did the job, I took out the fan for easier access to the water pump. The second time I didn't remove the fan trying to save some time. I personally recommend removing the fan for easier access. I think it was actually faster and easier to remove the fan than to leave it in.

 

Correct on both points! Takes just a couple of minutes to remove the fan which provides loads of working room and it's best for proper refitting to be able to go straight in with the pump rather than at an angle. Also remove the pulley in front of the pump, takes less than a minute and makes pump screw access much easier.

 

So the little plastic elbow on the front of the water pump....How the heck does that go back together and seal? I have the replacement parts...elbow, little black plastic piece, and a brownish O-Ring.

The old one was leaking and basically fell out. Little black plastic piece crumbled but I don't see an O-ring anywhere. I've messed around with it, but can't seem to figure out a configuration that actually seals the connection. I'm sure I'm being an idiot here, but I need a little help.

 

Happy new Year everyone.. Any recommendations on good aftermarket water pumps for these LR4's, 2011 era? There's many available and I'm sure they are just fine compared to the OEM cost. Thank you.

 

@Sasky I just did this job last week on a 2012 LR4, and I used the Pro Flow unit from RM European along with the metal oil cooler pipe (URO brand). So far so good, although one of the gaskets was a little banged up in the box and gave me pause. You'll need to order an o-ring as well for the oil cooler pipe connection..

Had the shipping time worked for when I needed the parts, I would have gone with the Geba kit from FCP Euro after reading good reviews (which includes pump, gaskets, oil cooler pipe, and o-rings): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/lan...af-lr097165kt3

Good luck!