Hey All-- OK, I finally took the Land Rover plunge. Three weeks ago, bought a low mileage 2003 DII with a totally rebuilt (correctly) engine, wife loves it. But two days ago I stumbled across a V-8 2013 LR4 for $2700. 137k, Rust free southern car, very nice overall condition (yes, I rushed over to be the first one there). It's a disease, right?
Owner filled me in, and I fiddled with it today. Fortunately, I had read all of the overheating threads before going to buy it. I test drove it and it started right up and drove it around the block flawlessly. He had pulled right over when the alert went off, had it towed. Local rural mechanic not sure how to proceed. Had coolant in it. He didn't want to fool with it, nearest LR dealer 150 miles away, had put 67k on it since buying it 4 years ago with only routine MX.

First of all, what I plan to do: new front and rear cross over pipes, new water pump, new thermostat, flush system.
Now, what I did: Started it up. and drove it about 1 1/2 miles, coolant gauge was normal, cooling system was pressurized. Stopped for a few minutes, started up and drove some more. Watching the coolant temp religiously, a mile later, started up a small hill and the gauge started to rise quickly. Pulled over ASAP and shutdown. Whiffs of smoke and antifreeze smell on top of engine. But the system was still pressurized, which surprised me. Postulated some antifreeze pushed through some connections, but the overall system remained intact. Cooled it down for ten minutes, all fine, Scenario repeated about another mile back to my shop. At no time was there a loss of coolant in the system (although it pushed it out when I turned the cap).

So I ask all-- is there anything else to do besides what I listed? Engine starts and runs fine.

Also, what do you think is going on? My guess-- needs water pump, or stuck thermostat. Your ideas?

OK, where's the oil dipstick on this thing? I think I know-- there isn't one. Electric sensor for the rich folks. But it says that the sensor isn't working. So where is it located? Is this a common problem? I also plan to change oil and filter after cooling problem solved. Feel free to add any info. BTW, the DII was a lot more expensive and in excellent shape, and wifey running around town in it now.

Thanks folks!
PS Where should I buy the cross over pipes? Water pump and thermostat?

 

I would check the coolant for exhaust gasses to rule out head gaskets. How pressurized is it? Are the rubber coolant houses rock hard?

I have a D2 as well, and I know it didn't take much to blow a gasket on the 4.0. I know way more about the D2 then the LR3 or LR4. I just picked up a 2015 LR4 and just starting to learn about it.

If you don't have exhaust gasses in the coolant, I think what you plan to do is good. If the new water pump, hoses, thermostat doesn't fix it, I would look at the radiator next.

I tend to buy most of my parts from AB or Lucky 8. I think they are sponsors of this site

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the response. I'll start attacking from this direction. I doubt that it's exhaust gas.

 

OK, after thinking about it, it could be a head gasket. I'll end up doing the rest anyway, but I will check for a head gasket leak. Thanks!

 

OK, I think I got it figured out. The previous owner said that the heater stopped working right before it overheated. So I believe that it is/was a slow coolant leak (around the crossovers) that reduced the coolant and created air pockets. When it lost enough coolant, then the heater stopped getting coolant. Finally, enough coolant was lost to have it overheat, but still had coolant.to overfill the reservoir. So I don't expect head gasket problem and will proceed with crossovers and pump.

 

I would count on HG. After it’s gets hot, shut it down and wait till the next day to start it. If it runs rough at first, then smooths out, that’s probably the coolant that leaked into the cylinder burning off. These motors really can’t handle overheating issues.

 

Well, looked again, and it does look like head gaskets. Oh well.