If you're only getting 16k miles out of a set of rotors, my first suspicion would be that they are defective and if your dealer wasn't willing to replace them under warranty, I'd find a good indy mechanic at the least. I also would hesitate to use the same rotors twice if the first set only lasted 16k miles. IMO, you should get 40k minimum out of a front set of rotors, much more on a rear set. No dealer is going to be able to tell you with a straight face that 16k miles on a set of rotors is either normal or acceptable. Land Rover Albuquerque - How Long do Brakes Last?

Roverparts.com is a great place to start, and RockAuto usually has hard to beat prices, but you have to verify part numbers will fit on a less common vehicle like a late model Land Rover because their website cannot be entirely trusted and their returns are a PITA. I figure I'll buy a one day access to JLR Topix if I need something that I cannot otherwise find.

Six qts of oil and a filter change shouldn't cost much more than $100, even at a dealer. The JLR spec oil is nothing too terribly particular, C2 is even superseded by other OEM's specs, and can be had relatively inexpensively. I'm debating how soon before I dump the factory fill for some better spec Motul 8100 X-clean EFE that I can get online for about $43 per 5L jug; free shipping over $60 so just buy two at a time. Peak BlueDef goes for about $12.5 / 2.5g, a local popular truck stop here in Texas (Buc'ee's) has SuperS DEF for a $6.29 / a 2g jug.

The diesel fuel filters are perhaps another story; I'd hate to see how much a dealer would ask to replace that. Probably part of the 40k miler service, I wouldn't want to run any further than that and would probably change them sooner on my personal vehicle. Most folks should be able to swap engine and cabin air filters themselves, but from what I have gathered the diesel fuel filters are under the bonnet and it looked a little more precarious the two fuel filters I had on my 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel; they were readily accessible from underneath the vehicle.

 

Agreed the service prices are crazy, even ours. I have found in the past that servicing with the dealer while under warranty works out better for warranty fixes.

Not sure what I will do when it needs brakes, but the prices I read are nuts. This is not a race car with super special brakes and the crap about replacing rotors every time.

I have had an oil change done at 8k at the dealer and it was pricey. I prefer shorter changes as I think the 16K is s bit much. In the future may do an in between service myself and do a drain vs just sucking on the tube. Save money and hopefully buy more life on the engine.

 

I did read the Vehicle uses the rear brakes a lot to help with cornering, and I know that these traction control based all terrain systems use brakes heavily but that would only be relevant if you do a lot of off roading...

I also read somewhere that LR is recommending to change rotors whenever pads are changed which sounds like money making nonsense to me. In over 25 years of driving and countless vehicles I’ve never had rotors need changing whenever the pads wear out. Pads are softer than the rotors for a reason although I do accept that pads with metal in them like some “fast road” pads can cause increased rotor wear but I’m still not buying it.
Before service I’ll photograph and measure my rotor thickness and any lip and If my dealer tells me they need changing when they don’t they’ll never see me again...

 

I already told the dealer this is the only time I'll have them do brakes. I am only doing now as my life is crazy right now and I just dont have time. Add to that many indies around here wont touch a land rover and im between a rock and a hard place. Inspection is coming up and here in VA i think the county mounties just look for the expired sticker for grins.

 

There was nothing wrong with the rotors. LR refuses to do the pads without the rotors if the pads are below 4mm when you take it in. Of course the pad sensors don’t give you a warning before they are below the limit. Cool scam.

i race cars. I can tell if the rotors are ok. There was no chatter. No uneven braking. Visual inspection saw no cracks or veining. They would not respond to the logic.

oh BTW, the policy is the pad wear sensors also MUST be changed any time the pads are changed.

 

4mm is still plenty of pad left...
You can buy aftermarket sensor for about $20
Set of pads for an axle for $100
And about 30-40mins to change them
If you want to be certain on rotors a digital measure is cheap too.

So - buy the parts yourself, use an Indy or DIY

But for brakes don't use dealer...