Thanks for your reply, I asked because I am wondering what I would do with Blackstone analysis reports if I go that route.
The sample analysis on Blackstone's website can point to piston, rings, or bearing wear (maybe not specific bearings). So if the analysis points to wear then you'd reduce your oil change interval, correct?

Let's say a DIY oil change is about $140 for oil and filter. And you go 10K on a change interval. If you see no indication of wear you might then up that interval to 15K.
$140 per 10K is $14 per K. With the wear analysis but without the analysis of oil additives, you'd be at $28 plus $140 = $168 per 15K miles. But in order to determine if the oil additives are adequate you'd need to add the $10 TBN analysis so you'd be at $178 per 15K = $12 per K. A small savings in oil and filters (excluding any labor cost - my labor is free).

Alternatively, if the analysis shows wear, you'd reduce your oil change interval to reduce the amount of those elements in your oil. Does that mean the lead, copper, and/or aluminum in the oil is causing more wear or does it mean it's the byproduct of the wear? If it's the byproduct of wear, then changing the oil more frequently isn't going to fix the cause of the problem.

I'm not trying to argue with you, just trying to understand what I'd do with analysis results if they come back with abnormal wear. I wouldn't be rebuilding my engine if there's wear that only shows in the oil without other symptoms. Maybe I'd want to sell the vehicle. Or wait for a failure. Maybe I'd rather not know.

 

 

There are only a few oils with the LR spec for the SI6. And a genuine LR filter can't be found for under about $30 (there are some around $20 on eBay but how do we know if they are counterfeits?). If you use Mobil 1 from Costco or Walmart you'd get the oil price down to about $45 but it won't have the LR spec.

If you did get the oil change price down to $80 that's $8 per 1 K for a 10 K interval. Add a $38 analysis and increase to 15K interval and you'd be at $118 / 15K = $8 per K.
Maybe save a bit if you get the discount Blackstone package.

I think I'll ask Blackstone: does the wear cause the contaminants or the contaminants cause the wear

 

 

Can you tell us the exact brand/model/weight/spec for the BG Petrospec oil that has the LR spec? Maybe it's another one we can select from.

 

 

Thanks, Happy New Year

 

If changing your own oil here is what I have learned from my local dealership. I worked with my LR Tech for my first oil change to ensure I was doing everything properly on my Td6 - fortunately the cost of a dealer oil and filter change is only $109.95 here and a great learning experience for me too. The oil change interval is 8000 miles and is preprogrammed into your vehicle - unsure where folks are getting the 15,000 mile service interval. 8,000 miles is the standard, but go longer if you desire, and you can follow my previously posted instructions on resetting the service interval (every 8,000 miles) to avoid the annoying pop up at each engine start up. My dealership does not drop the skid plate as this requires removing a bunch of fasteners and takes a great deal of time. I'm pretty doubtful a full oil change, tire rotation and skid plate removal and reattachment can be accomplished in an hour without a lift and some extra helpful hands. And if LR wanted you to do that, why did they build in an oil extraction port? Start sucking oil through the oil extraction port - front left of the engine. This is not the dipstick tube and it is clearly visible. I purchased an oil extractor for roughly $65 via amazon that holds more that 6 liters, but has less capacity than what is needed for a gas engine. After the extraction is started, use a 32mm socket to loosen the oil filter housing. This will make the extraction easier and get you started on replacing the filter. The filter housing is located under the plastic cover on top of the engine (dead center). The cover pops off with a good pull. When replacing the filter, change the O ring included with the filter too. Pre lube it with a little oil for a good seal and tighten it down snuggly per specification. I purchased a half dozen filters online from a CA LR dealership for about $10 each plus shipping. I also bought a couple extra drain plugs, but won't be needing those after all. When done draining the oil and installing the new filter, carefully align all the plastic cover connection points before re-snapping it back in place (keeping the rubber connectors on the cover makes the reconnection process easier). As far as the oil is concerned, I'd strongly suggest using the JLR spec Castrol oil for our application - if another oil supplier cannot provide written documentation concerning their oil meeting the JLR spec, then it does not meet the spec. I personally had this conversation with Mobil regarding using a Mobil 1 product and they suggested not using their oil as nothing met the JLR specification. Not sure if the other suppliers are that honest or just trying to make a sale. My dealership sold the correct oil it to me directly (required by law) for $10.99 a liter via the parts department - I could not find the proper spec oil anywhere other that JLR. The dealership has had several problems with owners using other oils and fouling the Td6 engines. It is your investment, take care of it at your own long or short term expense. Lastly, even though it says 6.3 liters, only use 6 liters per my Technician. His experience is that the Td6 engine runs a little better with slightly less oil in the system has not been problematic on the Td6 vehicles he has serviced the past few years. Don't forget to reset the service interval (see other sticky post). For those of you changing your own oil in the past, how were you resetting the service interval?

 

Thanks for that info. The gas engine oil filter must be different and more expensive than the TD6.
Can you post the part number for the TD6 filter and the name of your LR dealer that sold you those filters?
I believe the 15K mile change interval is for the SI6 gas engine.