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My hood was starting to get stuck in cold weather and it's been pretty cold lately. $300 for the dealer to replace the cable. My third-party warranty covered $200 of that. Seems like a good outcome, especially after reading. One way to get it open is to bust the grille!
Are you somewhere cold?? I have the same issue. The hood release cable doesn't release properly when it gets very cold. The release handle doesn't pull far enough to pop it open. If you pull very hard on the hood release lever (without snapping it - it's plastic...) it will sometimes work. Really irritating
I mentioned at annual service and they couldn't find anything wrong (in august...) and lubricated it. But still does it on a cold morning
Apparently there is a fix to replace the cable (too long I heard?).
But as mentioned battery is in the boot on the right hand side behind the side panel (which is a pain to get off. You can connect and jump it or charge it from there
Not sure why you find it a pain to get off. It just unsnaps from tabs.
Hi all,
instead of replacing the whole bowden cable (costly and time consuming) I am wondering rather to fix the bowden cable. Means I was thinking to increase the length of the outer cable housing cause it is just a bowden cable, right? My idea was to take off the lower a-piller trim, where the bowden cable is mounted to and add a "spring washer" to increase length of the outer bowden cable. Sorry, for my bad English - Does this explanation make sense?
What do you think?
regards
Thomas
If you are going to lengthen the cable, I'd do it very slightly. Just a little added length could make it too long to release the latch. Maybe re-lubricate the pivot point.
If you are going to lengthen the cable, I'd do it very slightly. Just a little added length could make it too long to release the latch. Maybe re-lubricate the pivot point.
maybe we have a misunderstanding: Of course, I do not want to lengthen the inner cable but the outer cable (black housing) of the "bowden assembly".
Please keep us posted @tom_1 . This seems like a fairly common problem. Mine is getting a bit stubborn, so I'd be happy to know if your planned solution works.
Hi,
i have already the replacement (improved) cable at home. It's not as expensive as I thought-40€. Seems to be tricky to replace it through the firewall and routing behind the Engine-ECU into the engine bay.
what I did instead was the following:
-in the neighborhood of the coolant reservoir, there's a connector between cable to the latches and interior latch
-open this connector
-latch bowdencable ending now outside of the connector (to compensate the lengthening of the inner cable)
-make sure, you close this connector housing
I've now discovered that all 4 grille attachment points on the bumper that connect to the grille are broken. Can't help but think the dealer mechanic did this during the repair and they did not disclose it to me. If they had been broken (which they weren't) when I brought the vehicle in, they would have told me I would have to repair that as part of the work. No evidence of damage to the grille, no plastic fragments are in the grille area. So much for this just being a $300 repair job.
I've now discovered that all 4 grille attachment points on the bumper that connect to the grille are broken. Can't help but think the dealer mechanic did this during the repair and they did not disclose it to me. If they had been broken (which they weren't) when I brought the vehicle in, they would have told me I would have to repair that as part of the work. No evidence of damage to the grille, no plastic fragments are in the grille area. So much for this just being a $300 repair job.
