My front driver side window regulator recently went out. OEM is about $300, so I sourced one on amazon after reading favorable reviews. Also ordered replacement door clips in case any snapped.

Window Regulator: Door Clips:
Rundown of tools needed:
T20, T30 bit, bit driver, extensions.
Trim pry tools (I used a taped flathead & Harbor Freight trim tool)
Grease & spray lube
Headlamp
Suction Cup
Fishing line (might not need).

I followed the trim removal guide in the service manual (attached).








First, suction cup the window to prevent the glass from falling down.


Removing trim per service manual.




Easiest way to remove is to start in the upper left corner with your pry tool and pull off with your hands.


Screw Locations



Screw at the bottom of the door


Remove clip and screws.


Remove door cable, pull the white part out with your fingers and loop the cable head out.


I used the HF trim tool to remove panel clips stuck in the door


My bottom door screw retainer was broken, will replace it later.


Remove two connectors, connector on right has a lock, pull upward and you can disconnect.


For more working space, I removed the female locking connector from the door with the HF trim tool.


Panel out of the way to allow working room.


Window regulator screw locations.


Remove the white clip, cut the foam straight down and remove. My replacement regulator didn't have this and I had to remove the panel a few times to transfer it over.


To remove the clip from the window, pry on those two tabs away from the window and wiggle off.

 

Amazon window motor compared to OEM.





Foam is slightly lower density but not bad.


Remove old regulator, install new one. I lightly greased with Superlube these channels on both sides where the window clip slides on. I also used the Dupont Chain Saver to wax spray the cables and pullies before install. Hopefully it will provide some protection to the cables, as my last one appeared to be rusted out.


Reassembly tips - remove the top felt trim from the door panel and install it on the door BEFORE you clip the door panel in place. Remember to feed your door cable back through the inner panel.


Felt trim in place on door.



This is what I had to remove the door panel a few times for. Electrical tape the foam in place and use the clip to secure the two cables together.


So, upon initial reassembly, the T20 screw in the center of the inner door panel wouldn't reach the new motor .
This is a trick I used to pull the motor close enough to the inner door trim to be able to screw it in. Use fishing line, loop it around the cable above the screw hole, and feed the ends out the door panel. Pull the line as you twist the screw, and pull out the fishing line after it catches. Reeassemble everything back together. Reconnect all connectors, install inner door panel, making sure you pulled the door cable thru. Attach all screws.

Align the top of the door panel with the felt trim clips, push those in place, then you can push the rest of the door clips in place. Make sure all trim clips are on the panel and none are stuck in the door.




I kept forgetting to feed the door cable thru the inner panel, so I had to go back and re-do it a few times.
Overall install isn't hard at all. As stated above, I greased the clip slider channels, and sprayed chain saver / wax on the plastic pullies and cable. No where in the SM did it address the motor screw not reaching, so the fishing line trick worked like a charm.

So far so good on the new motor, rolls up and down a little faster than the passenger side now. It's a tad noisier, but i'll give it a week or so for everything to settle in.

 

Great write up!

 

awesome work and thank you for sharing OP

 

Great write up wish I knew that center bolt trick when doing my driver and passenger side it took me about 30 mins to get that bolt in on each side. Great post OP

 

Great details but this guy posted a video that made it look so easy - he did it in 28 minutes. Honestly, the $1200 quote from my dealer really pisses me off when it takes 30 minutes - $500 part from Land Rover and $700 in labor for 30 minutes? These dealers definitely give the brand a horrid reputation.

 

Good job!

Thank You!

 

Hey guys, tacking on here instead of making a new thread:

I had the regulator listed in the original post here installed about a year and a half ago. It was always a little different from the OE one (slower), but it was working fine. Then a couple months ago it started acting up where it will only go down about an inch each time you hit the switch. The window will go all the way up or down if you press the switch ~25 times, but it will never move more than an inch at a time. Hold the switch at the bottom and top to program it has not helped. It's as if there is a pinch sensor that is stopping it, but in the land rover part schematic I see no such sensor. I get "B1480-29 Window position sensor -signal invalid" in the Driver's door module when I check codes.

Anyone have any experience or ideas? I've taken the door panel off a milion times, and the track is aligned correctly, cleaned, and has even been lubed.

Was going to give up and take it to a shop - need to find one in the Nashville area since I just moved. However, the one I found that had excellent reviews doesn't work on the diesel engine, so I'd like to figure this out myself and then go back on the hunt for someone to outsource the timing chain and potential exhaust work.

 

My regulator was always faster than OEM. Other experiences looks like the regulator might be at fault.. try buying another one and replace. Seems like it worked for another person.

 

Went ahead and ordered another one.... Not excited, but I guess I could go through four of these before I get to the price of one (extremely failure prone) OE one.