Man how do you fit your disco in the garage with that rack? I love the look but my garage door is too low. The break job wasn't as hard is I thought it would be. Make sure you have some 12 point sockets.

 

Unfortunately, the Discovery does not come close to fitting in the garage. She has to sleep on the street while only the Shelby and some bikes get the garage.

Thanks for the pointer on the brake job.

 

Just a quick update if anyone is interested. I bought an ABS Amigo and fixed my lights by cleaning out and re-greasing the rear sensors that got dirt in them from off roading. Any way to keep this from happening every time I go off roading?

I also flushed out the coolant system and replaced my leaking throttle body heater gasket. I've still got a long list of things to do, but I feel much better about the truck being ready to see the trails again.

I also ordered a full-size spare (retread), and I flipped my bracket. I'm going to get the tire put on today and I'm excited.




Near future plans are to add an auxiliary port for iPod, I've got all the stuff to do the job, but haven't started yet. VERY soon, I will have the front drive shaft rebuilt, then replacing worn out leather shifter boot, and some lights for the roof rack!

 

Be sure you download a copy of the RAVE tech manuals, review the technical section in section of the forum that has all sorts of new-2-me and high miles service notes, etc. Any Rover within 50 miles of FM 1960 and I-45 is subject to Texas-sized overheat, keep a close eye on the temp guage. I have run the stock stat, and have switched to a 180, with good results. Would not go with a 160, the transmissions in some Rovers inhibit 4th gear below 150 degrees temp. Fan clutch needs to be up to snuff before off roading as you will be operating at higher rpm and lower speeds, cheap Chevy conversion for that item.

 

Thanks for the advice. I've downloaded the RAVE manual and done some reading on this website and landroversonly.

The first time I went off roading, the engine got hot and that's why I changed the coolant and replaced the throttle body heater gasket (it was leaking on the valve cover). I've considered changing the thermostat, but there seems to be (with all things Land Rover), some controversy on the subject. Being hot in Houston, I shouldn't run into any issues.

Thanks for the advice on the fan clutch, that's one thing I haven't heard yet.

 

When you are cruising out toward Katy, you don't really use the fan. I have taken mine off when stuck with a wobbling water pump and driven 30 miles home. Just don't stop too long. Fan should be stiff to turn by hand when cold, when warmed up fully may turn easier, but not spin all the way around. A free wheeling one has lost the some of the silicone fluid inside, and won't start coming back on line when very warm. The clutch face needs to be about 170 degrees before it starts re-coupling, variable transition, like an electric drill. If the space between the radiator and the AC condenser is full of trash it can keep warm air away from the clutch, and fool it to not re-engage. On my D1 there is a rubber strip you slide out to see down in that space. Then there is the belt route, you'll find that in the tech sticky section, my PO had belt on wrong plus had wired electric fans on AC to blow out, not in. If overheat persists, time to look at radiator being serviced, if it is the brass and copper style they can usually be rodded out for $65 by a small indy shop that also works on tractors and such. And water pump, if needed, usually, if you replace fan clutch it is a good idea to replace water pump, they tend to go pretty close to each other. Water wetter makes a difference as well (auto parts miracle mechanic in a jug aisle). Cowboy up!

 

Sorry for the crappy cell pics.
I got the new tire on and I think it looks much better, plus offers more functionality for the trails