When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dropped it off at firestone today to get the alignment squared away so I can put the good tires on it. Not the 12 year old rollers I keep around for this kind of stuff lol. It failed for the wheel side tie rod on the drag link. So that will arrive tomorrow and I’ll get that on and have an appointment for Thursday to try again.
Stayed dry inside yesterday so I think we have that sunroof leak licked without having to resort to sealing the roof. It’s running perfectly now. Rolls pretty smoothly down the road.
Had a rotational noise and while greasing the u-joints tonight I noticed a heat shield is falling apart and rubbing on the driveshaft
So far it’s a great $450 Range Rover
Last edited by ArmyRover; Apr 1, 2025 at 06:26 PM.
With driving it for the last couple days I have a few issues that I need to figure out.
1. Right front turn signal was missing the socket, grabbed a spare and popped a fresh bulb in it. The light stays on even after the truck is off lights are off and its been 5 minutes.
2. Can’t seem to get the trip odometer to displaySorted door open warning blocks it out have to check it before I start the truck😂
3. Right Blower motor is dead
4. AC inop, has the book and ! Displayed on the climate control unit. Only code I have is a 33. AC compressor will randomly cycle for 1-2 seconds Pressures look good.
5. Cruise Control
6. Radio, have what appears to be a good clarion unit but I haven’t been able to get a code for it. Have an Old School aftgermarket Alpine CD Player unit to install if I can get my hands on the wiring diagram for the factory harness.
7. Need to do a transmission service and replace the pan. Looks like it lost a front driveshaft and the pan got its butt beat like a red headed stepchild
8. Transfer case in neutral message appears but the truck drives fine and shifts between high and low range
Decided to pull codes again today on the HVAC to see what is coming up and here is were I am. I also did the system test on the HVAC Control unit and I am thinking it failed. I have one in the parts truck but I’m not 100% sure it’s any good to be honest. I think I will pull it and the blower motor though and give it a shot.
Also I am going to roll the dice and order the RSW setup for the P38, the Launch seems to be working but it glitches a lot when messing with the p38 so I want to be sure of what I am seeing.
This is what it pulled up. Montoring live values seems to be working great coolant temps look fine. Still have the transfer case fault of course and I think I didn’t get the evap line fully clicked into the quick disconnect on the tank.
I got the hvac unit and blower motor pulled out of the parts P38 it seems unlikely they will be better but it’s worth a shot. So I may mess with that tonight unless the tie rod end that was supposed to show up yesterday actually arrives today. So we shall see.
Alright so I tore into the center stack on the P38 and got the old control unit out. To be honest this was just a guess as I really had nothing pointing at the HEVAC unit being the problem. So I got it swapped in fired up the truck checked the codes and saw all the same data. Then it dawned on me I hadn’t cleared anything. So I cleared it and heard the compressor kick to life under the hood. So I hooked up the gauges and put some more Freon in the system and we have cold AC. I didn’t fully charge the system so I can check pressure this evening and see if it’s holding. If it is full charge and moving on. That just leaves the right hand blower motor I think to have what we need working!
Got after the blower motor swap really easy to do on the passenger side motor. Both Motors bench test good when 12v is applied directly to the power leads but not when plugged in. I confirmed 12v to connector that plugs into the motor. I am assuming that the resistor pack or whatever that is has gone bad.
So my thought is what if I bypass the resistor pack and just run 12v straight to the motor. It will always run full blast but at least it will be moving air. Only concern I have is will it be burning down some magic ecu somewhere in the truck doing that
I know that would work on most older vehicles. I also know the P38 has a lot of control wiring that uses something like 5v on the ground side of the circuit, so without following the diagram, I don’t know. Of course if you disconnect the control wiring and just provide power to the fan motor, that should work.
I know that would work on most older vehicles. I also know the P38 has a lot of control wiring that uses something like 5v on the ground side of the circuit, so without following the diagram, I don’t know. Of course if you disconnect the control wiring and just provide power to the fan motor, that should work.
The control wires would be left out of the loop just don’t want to accidentally set the HEVAC head unit on fire😂
