Can anyone provide a pic or diagram of the location of the engine block coolant drain plugs for an 08 RRS 4.4L?

I'm replacing the thermostat housing due to leaks. I drained the system using the lower radiator hose (no radiator petcock on 08 4.4L) however only about 1 gallon drained, just the contents of the radiator I think. Both the inlet and outlet are on the top of the engine so it didn't drain the block. The coolant level is still well above the water pump visually by looking into the existing thermostat housing. I don't want to remove the housing and spill a gallon or two of coolant all over the top of the engine with the the throttle body removed (which is required to remove the T housing).

Tough to find info or vids out there for 08-09 RRS 4.4L. They all just say drain the system by removing the lower radiator hose. Any help would be appreciated.
Thx!
Stew

Third time's a charm. Posted this on the LR3 and LR322 pages previously by mistake, doh!

 

I'm in the same boat what did you do?

 

I never did find block drain plugs, and as you can see, did not get any responses on this forum. If they exist they are behind interference that you can't remove unless you are going to pull the engine. There is also NO radiator drain **** on this model, first vehicle I've had that didn't have one. I drained what I could as described in my first post. I removed all the interference (you have to remove the fan, which I bought a tool on Amazon for which didn't work, and the throttle body. Once all the interference is out of the way, I removed some of the coolant hose connections that were accessible and did my best to drain the hose from the thermostat housing, then I think I just stuffed some paper towel in coolant neck to soak up as much as I could inside the hose. Then I stuffed rags or paper towel all around the thermostat housing area before I removed it, ended up not having much coolant left that drained onto the engine when I removed the housing, so wasn't bad at all. I remember some difficult to reach bolts on I think the Throttle body, but I did find a few videos that helped, but in the end they were knucklebusters, and just had to be patient and fiddle around with what extensions to use on a small socket wrench I think I used flexible extensions. The fan nut was a pain, and the fan tool wrench from Amazon didn't work, I ended up buying a huge combination wrench also from Amazon which did work, but I had to use a big steel rod or a breaker bar (I think) to hold the fan stationary while I worked the wrench. There were some videos on that also I found. I replaced a gasket in the throttle body, but the one I removed ended up in good shape so I think that was a waste, however I did clean the carbon deposits from all the areas I could reach in the the throttle body to get the butterfly to work more smoothly and that seemed to eliminate a very touchy accelerator pedal that would surge when you started to step on it, pedal response is much smoother now. Best of luck. I've tackled replacing the front A arm bushings which are a known problem that wear out and you get a clunking during breaking or going over speed bumps, I've also replaced a couple air shocks, which wear out, and cause pesky suspension faults or your car will lower itself if left parked for a few days. Neither job is too bad and will save you thousands vs. going to a mechanic, just takes time and patience, let me know if you want some advice on those. I also bought the Gap IIDtool diagnostic tool, which was expensive, but paid for itself immediately by pinpointing the air shock repair, and few other issues I've fixed myself, I recommend it, there are no other diagnostic tools that work with the 2008 RR sport. I did attempt to replace the heater core, which a common problem is that they partially clog and you have heat on the passenger side but not the drivers side which you would think to be a faulty solenoid but isn't. I tried flushing it, and tried to remove the console to get to it, but turns out you have to remove the entire dash which then requires resetting the air bags, I ended up paying something like $2,500 to get it replaced by my mechanic.