What did you get done this week?.....
Thread Starter
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TReK
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 5
From: Woodway, WA
Did you figure out why you got the oil pressure light?
Nah, haven't had time. Gonna pick up an oil pressure tester this weekend and work on it then. Its not moving until I figure it out. Not trying to toast my motor.
7th Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Changed oil in center diff, swivel *****, greased driveline u-joints, freed diff lock (had to remove the whole dang thing,) ran a jumper wire to get rear windows working, aired up tires, washed outside, vacuumed inside, ordered new seat covers (PO chose peacock theme. Seriously?!?! PEACOCK?) Ordered new exhaust pipe and rear silencer. To do: change tranny fluid, coolant change, order a rear wiper arm assembly.
i got a tranny oil temp sensor on the way home. think the water killed the sensor.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 30
From: Denver, CO
Some tasks I have been wanting to do for 4 months
Well I didn't do all this on the weekend, but did complete it over the last 4 days.
-extended and installed the drivers side tweeter that had to be moved up in my A pillar so my oil pressure guage bezel would fit.
-Set the low flashing number to 10psi on my digital oil pressure guage
-Fixed my right tail reverse/fog light as it would not light up. I though the plug was bad on the harness side. Then discovered the entire glass bulb fell out inside the light housign. That was easier than expected. Got a new bulb and back in business.
-installed a used wiring harness form Rover Guy on my rear PDC Park Distance Control. Now it work once again. I really missed that feature. Its really nice when parallel parking and not hitting trees when backing up off road. If your bumper gets pulled it will rip out the plugs from the sensors and then its hard to tell which sensor is malfunctioning. So two used sensors and harness and its back working again. One of the cooler features on the D2 HSE. Well worth my time and the $100 it cost me in used parts to get it back working.
-Moved my +/- winch electric cables to the rear posts on my Optima battery. Now a much cleaner look. And I did not have to use the ground on the frame by my negative battery terminal. This caused my lights to flash and radio to reset when triggering the winch.
My larger project that took about 12 hours to complete. I wired up using a Factory Land Rover Harness my Land Rover Driving lights. I bought a range rover wiring harness as I thought they would be very similar. After reading through the instruction. I mean looking through Ikea instructions for 6 different international languages several times. I opted to skip wiring through the fuse block or ECM way. I did a straight to the battery using the supplied Tyco/Bosch 30amp relay and 15amp fuses between the switch and positive wires. I had a factory LR switch and one blank left on my binical on the dash. Installing the switch was a breeze. As I was able to fish the wire through with out removing the instrument cluster. I used the same opening in the rubber boot that I ran my oil pressure guage wire through. I had to add about 4ft to the switch wire to get it to install right behind the battery box. Man wiring takes forever, when you test everything.... then run it. It was also 110 degrees heat index on Tuesday. The next afternoon I had the lights wired up and then installed H1 5000k HID bulbs to match my Fog and headlights. It was a trick to find a good place to mount the balists under the grill with double sided 3M auto tape. But it works. They are super bright and are not switched off by using high beams. Totally independent switch. Wow that was a novel. Here is the basic diagram I used to install the wiring. 2nd option down on the page. This is my most complex wire project to date. Now I'm ready to film a Outback commercial!
How To Wire Fog And Driving Lights Harness Wiring Diagram
Testing wiring harness on battery separate from car's ground points, using relay and factory switch provided with harness.
Bam lights turn on and off with switch. Time to run wires and secure them.
Relay nicely mounted to back side of battery box. Wires all tucked in and used provided ground points sprayed with non corrosive battery spary.
-extended and installed the drivers side tweeter that had to be moved up in my A pillar so my oil pressure guage bezel would fit.
-Set the low flashing number to 10psi on my digital oil pressure guage
-Fixed my right tail reverse/fog light as it would not light up. I though the plug was bad on the harness side. Then discovered the entire glass bulb fell out inside the light housign. That was easier than expected. Got a new bulb and back in business.
-installed a used wiring harness form Rover Guy on my rear PDC Park Distance Control. Now it work once again. I really missed that feature. Its really nice when parallel parking and not hitting trees when backing up off road. If your bumper gets pulled it will rip out the plugs from the sensors and then its hard to tell which sensor is malfunctioning. So two used sensors and harness and its back working again. One of the cooler features on the D2 HSE. Well worth my time and the $100 it cost me in used parts to get it back working.
-Moved my +/- winch electric cables to the rear posts on my Optima battery. Now a much cleaner look. And I did not have to use the ground on the frame by my negative battery terminal. This caused my lights to flash and radio to reset when triggering the winch.
My larger project that took about 12 hours to complete. I wired up using a Factory Land Rover Harness my Land Rover Driving lights. I bought a range rover wiring harness as I thought they would be very similar. After reading through the instruction. I mean looking through Ikea instructions for 6 different international languages several times. I opted to skip wiring through the fuse block or ECM way. I did a straight to the battery using the supplied Tyco/Bosch 30amp relay and 15amp fuses between the switch and positive wires. I had a factory LR switch and one blank left on my binical on the dash. Installing the switch was a breeze. As I was able to fish the wire through with out removing the instrument cluster. I used the same opening in the rubber boot that I ran my oil pressure guage wire through. I had to add about 4ft to the switch wire to get it to install right behind the battery box. Man wiring takes forever, when you test everything.... then run it. It was also 110 degrees heat index on Tuesday. The next afternoon I had the lights wired up and then installed H1 5000k HID bulbs to match my Fog and headlights. It was a trick to find a good place to mount the balists under the grill with double sided 3M auto tape. But it works. They are super bright and are not switched off by using high beams. Totally independent switch. Wow that was a novel. Here is the basic diagram I used to install the wiring. 2nd option down on the page. This is my most complex wire project to date. Now I'm ready to film a Outback commercial!
How To Wire Fog And Driving Lights Harness Wiring Diagram
Testing wiring harness on battery separate from car's ground points, using relay and factory switch provided with harness.
Bam lights turn on and off with switch. Time to run wires and secure them.
Relay nicely mounted to back side of battery box. Wires all tucked in and used provided ground points sprayed with non corrosive battery spary.
Last edited by bosshogt; Jul 14, 2011 at 12:19 AM.
Thread Starter
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TReK
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 5
From: Woodway, WA
Nice work Boss, you can really light up the night and now I am embarrased to post about the little dinky lights I installed, thanks a lot!
I mounted a pair of Hella 500's I had laying around onto my stock bumper, and popped up some of the cheapo Wal-Mart/Harbor freight lights onto my roof rack to see what it would look like. I didn't have a chance to wire either set up because it started RAINING
. I'll wire up the Hella's, but probably end up taking down the rack lights.
2011-07-13_21-37-37_842.jpg?t=1310662878
I mounted a pair of Hella 500's I had laying around onto my stock bumper, and popped up some of the cheapo Wal-Mart/Harbor freight lights onto my roof rack to see what it would look like. I didn't have a chance to wire either set up because it started RAINING
. I'll wire up the Hella's, but probably end up taking down the rack lights.2011-07-13_21-37-37_842.jpg?t=1310662878
Thread Starter
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TReK
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,433
Likes: 5
From: Woodway, WA
1. Finally got some help moving my roof rack back a couple inches so the mounting brackets line up with the A, B and C pillars so it's able to handle a little more weight.
2. Wired up my Hella's...just need to fix the ground wire for the switch so they'll work
3. Installed and wired up my CB radio. Went with a Midland 1001Z. Ran the antenna cable into the engine bay, and once I decide where to put it, I'll wire up my 3' Firestik.
4. Ordered/Received new thermostat, new HVAC control switch bulbs (installed), and gas door latch thingy so I can shut my gas door on the first try!
2. Wired up my Hella's...just need to fix the ground wire for the switch so they'll work
3. Installed and wired up my CB radio. Went with a Midland 1001Z. Ran the antenna cable into the engine bay, and once I decide where to put it, I'll wire up my 3' Firestik.
4. Ordered/Received new thermostat, new HVAC control switch bulbs (installed), and gas door latch thingy so I can shut my gas door on the first try!
