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we are all in the same boat. Im still figuring out no 6 misfire for a month now. Then i have to do my steering. Lol
The steering box came out pretty easily.
Only mine has a retard fastener at the top of the shaft.
The only tool that will get it out is a grinder.
So, I took the shaft out of the u-joint, and the u-joint off the box after.
Otherwise, it's 4 screws on a splashguard, 4 bolts holding box to frame, and a couple lines.
And a big hammer to smack the pitman arm end to get the ball joint out.
The box is really simple too, just a couple parts didn't want to let go without alot of persuading.
I thought it would've came apart easy...considering the amount of ps fluid everywhere, it was well lubed. lol
Last edited by Sixpack577; 09-07-2017 at 03:47 PM.
The steering box came out pretty easily.
Only mine has a retard fastener at the top of the shaft.
The only tool that will get it out is a grinder.
So, I took the shaft out of the u-joint, and the u-joint off the box after.
Otherwise, it's 4 screws on a splashguard, 4 bolts holding box to frame, and a couple lines.
And a big hammer to smack the pitman arm end to get the ball joint out.
The box is really simple too, just a couple parts didn't want to let go without alot of persuading.
I thought it would've came apart easy...considering the amount of ps fluid everywhere, it was well lubed. lol
ill be bugging you soon. I replaced my pump last november and somehow, lately the steering has play side to side and hard to recover on highway speeds. A bit scary and might loose control.
Installed ballistics film on the sunroofs to (hopefully) protect against any large hail since the Disco 2 sits outside full time. It's 12 mills and is supposed to protect against a variety of impacts (I'm thinking hurricane Irma heading inland might have some bad Wx).http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vvivid-12MIL...KBcaKOIjfzg_3g
Replaced both front O2 sensors. Went from a "Too rich" error code in bank 2 to "Too lean" error codes in Banks 1 and 2 on my first drive after disconnecting the battery for half an hour, reconnecting, and then starting her up and letting her idle for a while.
Turned off the motor. Restarted and went on a 2nd drive. No more "Too lean" error codes!
Hopefully that means the ECU "learned" the new components. That being said, it's a good thing that my SES light doesn't turn on for emission-related items because the ECU is kvetching about both of the new el-cheapo generic O2 sensors with error codes. Oy vey. F 'em. The ECU is obviously using the data correctly from the new O2 sensors so I don't care that it has detected non-Bosch parts!
I was getting a pathetic 9.6 miles per gallon on the old, failed O2 sensors with the "Too Rich" in bank 2 error code. Let's see what a full tank of premium does now that I've gotten rid of that too rich condition. Maybe 12 mpg?! One can dream...
Also, I've been running Bars Power Steering Fix (binary) fluid for the last full tank of fuel and just bled out the Bars while refilling with power steering fluid. https://barsleaks.com/product/power-steering-repair/
My steering went from sloppy to straight and firm now!
So, here's to that mess (and $12) hopefully saving me from a near-term steering box rebuild (again, one can dream). Maybe...maybe it will last several thousand more miles.
Yep.
It moved, maybe 3/8", and that was it.
Thought the puller was literally going to break.
I talked to my Dad, and he came and got the box this morning.
He heated the arm and got it off. I was using propane.
He used acetolyne. So it obviosly needed more heat to persuade it to come off.
Correction
He did not have to heat it.
Just used a different puller.
Walked out of work and got about 3 revolutions out of the starter and that was it. After an attempt at jumping it off with no joy, a tow home was inevitable.
Well, the Labor Day weekend was handy!
There is a thread by Casey McManus titled "Fu#@ing Starter!"...OK, so it's not very descriptive...that had all the info on this job. See the end of the thread with the page from the RAVE.
I think the Bosch starter was factory original as it has the Land Rover symbol stamped on it. Seems that the 800 lb (not the little 600 lb guy) gorilla put on the starter bolts. Let me tell ya! Cap screws torqued to a fare-the-well were fun to pull laying under the Disco on the ground (not fortunate enough to have a lift). Finally got the cap screws loose. Tested the starter and it wouldn't spin at all under power (solenoid tested good, turned by hand).
Got a Bosch rebuild, put it in and I'm back on the road. One of the repair threads I read mentioned constant battery drain from the bad starter...I can attest to that. First time I've seen that from a bad starter, though.
Any confirmation that this is a Land Rover original starter? Any special value to one of these? Should I rebuild it and keep it as a spare? Are rebuild kits available?
I'm going to the "fixit" thread next to thank Casey. I think the thread could be cleaned up and made a "sticky". Yeah, starters should be simple, but this takes the added guess work our and has a few shortcuts that are right on!
Today I received my Meyle front sway bar links from Miami British. The ones that are on Myrtle are a bit sloppy. I paid $60 for the pair which is a bit high but they ship fast to Georgia plus Meyle has a 4 year warranty on their Heavy Duty parts. http://www.meyle.com/fileadmin/user_...ndRover_en.pdf
The calm before the storm...
I also hit a milestone and made it to 14.06MPG with 326 miles on a tank of petrol on my 2001 Disco.
09-07-2017, 03:30 PM
