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A few options exist. As mentioned by @Shesh already - a trailer brake controller is virtually a legal requirement and that can be used independently of the vehicle brakes for minor braking adjustments on down hills. I find that method particularly useful Offroad downhill. Other options include shifting the Defender into sport mode and basically downshift for braking. I find that method very useful on our Colorado steep grade roadways. Another method is to adjust the electronic brake controller to apply more trailer brake on the downhills when the vehicle brakes are applied. Essentially I avoid having the trailer push the rig downhill and use all those methods interchangeably.
What about cruise control? I’ve read some forums, not defender specific, that indicates it uses engine braking as well. Would this be a damaging way of managing downhill at highway speeds?
What is your tongue weight? I am looking at a trailer that has a dry weight of about 5500 but the tongue weight is about 900. The 110 has a stated tongue max of 820 but I am wondering if that is a hard number or something to balance with the overall vehicle payload. Will the extra tongue weight compromise the air suspension?
Where did you get that 820 lb number? My book for the 110 says all vehicles 330 lb for a tongue weight. That's the certified weight.
Where did you get that 820 lb number? My book for the 110 says all vehicles 330 lb for a tongue weight. That's the certified weight.
Originally Posted by Shesh
What about cruise control? I’ve read some forums, not defender specific, that indicates it uses engine braking as well. Would this be a damaging way of managing downhill at highway speeds?
The manual has an excellent breakdown of certified weights as photos attached. There may be some nuances based on model year. With my 110x and air suspension I find a better tow condition with a heavier vs lighter tongue weight - my estimate is around the 400 lb mark or slightly less but I haven't had it formally measure in a certified scale.
I typically don't use cruise control in general and never when towing... just my personal preference. I haven't read anything specifically in that regard. By manually down shifting I'm essentially using engine braking as previously described. I just remain mindful of engine revs, road grade, engine temp, and vehicle speed and adjust my driving between manual shift and automatic accordingly. I miss my manual transmission vehicles in that regard.
The manual has an excellent breakdown of certified weights as photos attached. There may be some nuances based on model year. With my 110x and air suspension I find a better tow condition with a heavier vs lighter tongue weight - my estimate is around the 400 lb mark or slightly less but I haven't had it formally measure in a certified scale.
I typically don't use cruise control in general and never when towing... just my personal preference. I haven't read anything specifically in that regard. By manually down shifting I'm essentially using engine braking as previously described. I just remain mindful of engine revs, road grade, engine temp, and vehicle speed and adjust my driving between manual shift and automatic accordingly. I miss my manual transmission vehicles in that regard.
Yep, that's where I got the number from. In my line of work, the 771 lbs would be a safety margin that the hitch was designed to, but it is not meant to be used. There is a certified weight and a design weight. Do you know how LR uses those terms? I did run across a blurb on LR's side suggesting that 330lbs is the capacity without overrun brakes. So then it occurred to me that this figure is posted as "certified" because the Defender does not come with a brake controller from the factory. Thoughts?
I did run across a blurb on LR's side suggesting that 330lbs is the capacity without overrun brakes. So then it occurred to me that this figure is posted as "certified" because the Defender does not come with a brake controller from the factory. Thoughts?
Your logic seems reasonable and makes a lot of sense to me. I was surprised when ordering my 110x with all the trailer towing options that a brake controller, or choice of a controller, wasn't an option. Even more odd is the tow capacity of the LRD is high enough that some type of brake controller is a requirement (at least in North America). Not a surprise that JLR really missed an obvious opportunity here to provide a more comprehensive solution, albeit I'm glad I was able to specify my preferred brake controller that may well have not been a standard option.
Your logic seems reasonable and makes a lot of sense to me. I was surprised when ordering my 110x with all the trailer towing options that a brake controller, or choice of a controller, wasn't an option. Even more odd is the tow capacity of the LRD is high enough that some type of brake controller is a requirement (at least in North America). Not a surprise that JLR really missed an obvious opportunity here to provide a more comprehensive solution, albeit I'm glad I was able to specify my preferred brake controller that may well have not been a standard option.
I don't understand what you're saying in the bold part. Towing capacity is one thing, but you still need a brake controller or you have no trailer brakes.
On edit: Never mind...after reading it again I think you're saying it's even more odd that JLR doesn't offer one, not that it's odd that a controller is a requirement.
Last edited by jclaffee; Jul 14, 2024 at 05:49 PM.
I don't understand what you're saying in the bold part. Towing capacity is one thing, but you still need a brake controller or you have no trailer brakes.
Here's my non-expert understanding/description of how it works and requirements. I'm sure there others here with vastly more experience than I in this regard can provide a more complete explanation or correct me where I'm wrong.
The requirements for having brakes on a trailer vary by weight of trailer and by state (this website has a reasonable summary but I don't know if there are nuances or inaccuracies listed there). If you have a trailer with electric or electric-over-hydraulic disc brakes (the latter is my case), you need some method to apply and control the braking force of the trailer brakes, otherwise all the braking force is only coming from the tow vehicle as it's pushed by the towed mass/weight.
Generally, an electronic brake controller in the vehicle sends an electrical signal to electro magnets in the trailer brakes that applies the brakes on the trailer. The amount of braking force being applied at the trailer brakes being adjustable based on the brake controller settings in the vehicle controller. So yah, basically without a controller (wired or wireless) in the tow vehicle talking to the trailer, the trailer effectively has no brakes.
Note I'm presuming the trailer isn't equipped with 'surge' or 'inertia' brakes which are essentially controlled by the push/pull of the tow vehicle. I'm unaware of any general use travel trailers that are equipped with surge/inertia brakes but that's likely based on trailer weight and I don't own and have never towed one that light. Air brakes are another matter entirely and well beyond my understanding as to legal requirements.
I hope that helps. Again, to others with more experience and knowledge than myself - please correct the above as needed.
On edit: Never mind...after reading it again I think you're saying it's even more odd that JLR doesn't offer one, not that it's odd that a controller is a requirement.
Sorry our notes passed in the ether. Yes. It's odd that JLR doesn't offer a controller
Hills/Mountains
