OK, finally got the Triple-R A-pillar mounts and Rigid Ditch lights all mounted up and wired up.

The mounts look like they're 3D printed, but are very solid with lots of extra material in the higher stress areas as well as metal inserts where the screw mount points are:

 

Here they are on the Defender:




The way the Rigid Ditch lights and mounts sit, the lights aren't completely horizontal when pointed forwards. They slope down/outwards about 10 degrees. Not a big deal for me as these aren't meant to point straight forwards anyways and when angled outwards the down/outward slope isn't noticeable.

I'm glad I got the Black "Midnight Edition" version of these lights, the lights and their mounts match the gloss black trim of the Defender nicely. I didn't use the supplied stainless steel bolts to hold the lights on the mounts. Instead, I got some M6x20mm Torx Security/anti-theft bolts and used those instead. I also used the black security bolt to affix the Triple-R mount to the A-Pillar instead of using the bolt off the original long A-pillar trim piece.

Note: the mounts do sit really close to if not right on the paint/metal underneath them, would be worth putting down some PPF to protect the paint (my Defender is already fully PPF'ed so I wasn't concerned).

 

As for the wiring, I ended up using a nice but inexpensive wireless 4 way gang switch from Amazon. It was on sale for $44 and it made wiring things up pretty painless as all the wiring remains in under the hood and I didn't have to run a wire through a grommet into the cabin and risk compromising the waterproof barrier. The 4 button remote switch box that goes into the cabin is illuminated and depressing a button changes the color to indicate which circuit is on or off. When you turn power off the remote any accessories controlled by the system will also turn off as well.


I modified/cut up the nice wiring harness that came with the Rigid ditch lights so that the wires were a shorter run and wired them into the main control box for the 4 gang wireless switch control box that I attached under the passenger side front cowl:

I wired up the ditch lights so they can be turned on/off independently (used 2 of the 4 circuits) and put in 10 amp fuses to those circuits in the control box to match the wire gauge. The wire to the driver side ditch light is snaked through the driver side cowling area, the passenger side light's wiring is seen all wrapped up and tucked into this cowling area.

The control box came with really thick +12V and Ground cables (red and white) which I just ran out to the power take off point that LR provides, I did add a 50A mega fuse (the control box is rated for 60A total but the two ditch lights together draw ~22W total which works out to about 1.833A so I have plenty of margin) and secure the fuse and +12V red wire with a M6 lock nuts.

The blue arrow in the picture above points to a spot where I attached the Ground wire via a M6 screw to the car chassis (I did this so that the cable run was cleaner and so that I didn't have to mess with the factory Ground point nearby and whatever was attached to it). Close up of that alternate ground location that I used:

(note there is a second wire attached to ground going to a hardwired solar charger connector that I also hooked up when I installed all this stuff).

That's it, it was a pretty easy and fun project, greatly simplified by using this wireless gang switch system. It was cheap so if it dies, I can always pony up for a better system later. A switch over will be quick as all the wiring will already be in place. The part that took the longest was actually measuring and laying out all the wiring to be a nice tidy/clean install.

I took my time but if I were to do it again, it would probably take me under 90 min for all of it now that I've done it once.

OK, hope you all find this useful.