Back up lights O M G
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Mudding
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 174
Likes: 132
Back up lights O M G
I know that this has been stated in other threads but WOW---I cannot believe how bad the factory backup lights are.....they are at the 'why bother' level!
Can't believe that this passed government requirements.
www.powerfuluk.com here I come......
Can't believe that this passed government requirements.
www.powerfuluk.com here I come......
Popular Reply
Jan 16, 2023, 06:37 AM
4wd Low
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 12
Likes: 33
From: Slovenia
As Powerfull team did not export to EU I had to find different solution for reversing lights. And I did (redneck way)! Just for couple of $ and an afternoon of very slow labour.
This solution is not suitable for all rims.
Miran
This solution is not suitable for all rims.
Miran
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 252
Likes: 140
From: Boise, Idaho USA
I would be willing to bet that the design of our backup lights is a government requirement thing. We dont want to make people think that our backup lights are actual on coming head lights. Or something like that.
I know that my Red Brake lights are sure bright and noticeable.
I know that my Red Brake lights are sure bright and noticeable.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 458
From: USA
I agree that the back up lights are pathetic in the Defender. I got mine ordered from powerfuluk and they are late already. Supposed to have received them two days ago via DHL. Oh well...waiting a couple more days won't hurt.
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 109
Likes: 80
The Powerful UK lights are a huge improvement. Two tips I’d give if you’re going to follow his video:
1- Solder at the bench vs. at the vehicle. I mounted the light(s) to the plastic panel off the vehicle, then wired, soldered, heat shrinked, and taped before mounting on the vehicle. IMO, much easier that way.
2- I found that making all the connections to the vehicle and then tucking the wires + getting the one 2-pronged wire holder thing remounted was a PIA. Instead make the 2-prong holder connection first, mount it, and then connect the other adapter. I found it to be less fiddly because there’s less wires in the way if you do it one at a time.
3- One additional tip if you have PPF, is to use painters tape to protect the film, edges, and panel as you pull them off. Actually I think it’s a good idea even if you don’t have PPF. Those suckers were on there super tight and even a “non-marring” tool could damage the paint if you keep prying at the same spot. Be patient and careful but as someone here posted a while ago, you got to ultimately pull on them like it’s not your car😂
Took abt an hour and taking the panels off was the hardest part cause I didn’t want to dork up the panels on my less than 3wk old truck😜
1- Solder at the bench vs. at the vehicle. I mounted the light(s) to the plastic panel off the vehicle, then wired, soldered, heat shrinked, and taped before mounting on the vehicle. IMO, much easier that way.
2- I found that making all the connections to the vehicle and then tucking the wires + getting the one 2-pronged wire holder thing remounted was a PIA. Instead make the 2-prong holder connection first, mount it, and then connect the other adapter. I found it to be less fiddly because there’s less wires in the way if you do it one at a time.
3- One additional tip if you have PPF, is to use painters tape to protect the film, edges, and panel as you pull them off. Actually I think it’s a good idea even if you don’t have PPF. Those suckers were on there super tight and even a “non-marring” tool could damage the paint if you keep prying at the same spot. Be patient and careful but as someone here posted a while ago, you got to ultimately pull on them like it’s not your car😂
Took abt an hour and taking the panels off was the hardest part cause I didn’t want to dork up the panels on my less than 3wk old truck😜
Mudding
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 226
Likes: 169
From: DC
Mine came especially fast, but I heard something about intermittent postal strikes in the UK, so that might be what's holding things up for you. Hope they arrive soon! I need to find time to install mine.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,151
Likes: 458
From: USA
The Powerful UK lights are a huge improvement. Two tips I’d give if you’re going to follow his video:
1- Solder at the bench vs. at the vehicle. I mounted the light(s) to the plastic panel off the vehicle, then wired, soldered, heat shrinked, and taped before mounting on the vehicle. IMO, much easier that way.
2- I found that making all the connections to the vehicle and then tucking the wires + getting the one 2-pronged wire holder thing remounted was a PIA. Instead make the 2-prong holder connection first, mount it, and then connect the other adapter. I found it to be less fiddly because there’s less wires in the way if you do it one at a time.
3- One additional tip if you have PPF, is to use painters tape to protect the film, edges, and panel as you pull them off. Actually I think it’s a good idea even if you don’t have PPF. Those suckers were on there super tight and even a “non-marring” tool could damage the paint if you keep prying at the same spot. Be patient and careful but as someone here posted a while ago, you got to ultimately pull on them like it’s not your car😂
Took abt an hour and taking the panels off was the hardest part cause I didn’t want to dork up the panels on my less than 3wk old truck😜
1- Solder at the bench vs. at the vehicle. I mounted the light(s) to the plastic panel off the vehicle, then wired, soldered, heat shrinked, and taped before mounting on the vehicle. IMO, much easier that way.
2- I found that making all the connections to the vehicle and then tucking the wires + getting the one 2-pronged wire holder thing remounted was a PIA. Instead make the 2-prong holder connection first, mount it, and then connect the other adapter. I found it to be less fiddly because there’s less wires in the way if you do it one at a time.
3- One additional tip if you have PPF, is to use painters tape to protect the film, edges, and panel as you pull them off. Actually I think it’s a good idea even if you don’t have PPF. Those suckers were on there super tight and even a “non-marring” tool could damage the paint if you keep prying at the same spot. Be patient and careful but as someone here posted a while ago, you got to ultimately pull on them like it’s not your car😂
Took abt an hour and taking the panels off was the hardest part cause I didn’t want to dork up the panels on my less than 3wk old truck😜
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 257
Likes: 193
I installed my Powerful UK backup lights yesterday. I agree with Jiman01‘s tips.
Hearing the plastic clips crack was terrifying but in the end nothing major broke. I did lose three of the little plastic clips, but the PUK kit comes with four extras so I was all set.
One other wrinkle - my (US spec) 110S P300 has some kind of sensor attached via a short wire to the left/driver’s side panel that I didn’t want to remove. As a result I had to bring a step stool over to rest that panel on so it wasn’t dangling and in the way as I worked on the rest of the steps for that side. Nothing similar on the right - that one simply came off and I set it aside.
Good luck!
Hearing the plastic clips crack was terrifying but in the end nothing major broke. I did lose three of the little plastic clips, but the PUK kit comes with four extras so I was all set.
One other wrinkle - my (US spec) 110S P300 has some kind of sensor attached via a short wire to the left/driver’s side panel that I didn’t want to remove. As a result I had to bring a step stool over to rest that panel on so it wasn’t dangling and in the way as I worked on the rest of the steps for that side. Nothing similar on the right - that one simply came off and I set it aside.
Good luck!
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2022
Posts: 257
Likes: 193
I should have taken a picture, but I'm not about to wrestle the thing off again just for a photo.
It was odd - it kind of looked like a light - a thin, square thing on the back side of the plastic. But it wasn't over an open hole - it was stuck directly to the back side of the plastic panel itself. No opening to emit light or allow anything to enter. Makes me wonder if it's a radar/parking sensor thing?
I tried to find the part on line, but no luck. Closest I could come is this:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...de=33C010315AC
Part number: <024A36 on the illustration.
Except the highlighted one in the illustration is the passenger side (in the US), and the one that had the mystery wire is the driver's side.
It was odd - it kind of looked like a light - a thin, square thing on the back side of the plastic. But it wasn't over an open hole - it was stuck directly to the back side of the plastic panel itself. No opening to emit light or allow anything to enter. Makes me wonder if it's a radar/parking sensor thing?
I tried to find the part on line, but no luck. Closest I could come is this:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...de=33C010315AC
Part number: <024A36 on the illustration.
Except the highlighted one in the illustration is the passenger side (in the US), and the one that had the mystery wire is the driver's side.
