I recently finished installation of the Land Rover integrated air compressor (purchased from Powerful UK). I'd watched their videos on the installation, which are quite helpful, but the 90 is a bit different than the 110 (their subject car). Furthermore, the workshop manual PDF from Land Rover had no section for disassembly of the left loadspace trim for the 90 (only the 110). The two are different enough that I thought I'd document the process along the way, share any lessons learned, and preserve for posterity something I or anybody can refer back to in the hopes of not destroying any trim or other pieces along the way.

The steps involved are for disassembly of the left loadspace trim. Aside from the fuse box panel, however, both sides should be nearly identical. Let me know if you come across any difficulties in the right hand side.

I removed the rear seat cushion bench so my seats can pitch as far forward and flat as possible. That's helpful for removal of trim at a later step. If you're not familiar with how to do this, there's a thread in these forums with a post by Penquinn who made a video about how to do this simple procedure here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...d-flat-105471/ (at post #12).

So let's start.

Lift and remove your rear cargo space floor cover and remove the foam block holding all of your spare tire changing tools. Look at all that space! (Ok, not as much as a 110, I have space envy, but I digress...)



Remove the rear tread plate by removing the two T30 screws and lifting straight up. There are good, reusable clips holding it in so not much to worry about here. Keep track (or photograph) your screws and bolts or keep them together with the trim pieces they belong to so you don't get confused later on during reassembly.


Remove the pivoting coat hook by rotating the hook down and pulling straight up and out at about a 45 degree angle upwards.
Then remove the T30 torx bolt behind where the hook used to be.



Remove the plastic hook piece that'd be used to secure the load space top cover by removing the T30 torx screw and pulling straight out.



It should look like this now:



Remove the vertical trim piece that surrounds the seat back securing hooks by pulling it straight out toward you. Don't attempt to pull the piece that is above that off until this piece is first removed or you will break its clips.


Now you can safely remove the horizontal trim piece that was above the piece you removed in the previous step.
It looks like this now:



Before removing the large side panel, you'll have to remove a trim piece that's right above the aluminum cross bar where the seatbelt ends up naturally. In the picture below, the seatbelt is covering the trim piece you need to remove. Pull straight back on it and it will pop right out.



There's a screw behind this trim piece that you will need to remove (T30 again) before attempting to remove the large side panel. I learned this the hard way. Grrrr.



Remove the tailgate latch from the left side by removing the two T40 torx bolts.



Remove the silver pivoting hoop thing from the bottom of the left side of the load space. I'm sure it has a name. I call it silver pivoting hoop thing. I didn't take a close up of it before I took it out, but it was where the hole is now near the dead center of this picture that has a sort of D shape.



Now that you've got all the obstacles out of the way, you'll have to remove the two electrical connectors from the large side panel before muscling (finessing?) the panel out. Start slowly by separating it from the left side, by the tailgate seal, separating the panel from the top panel by pulling straight back. Always only use as much force as is necessary to remove this, and all, plastic trim because stressing it too much will cause it to discolor or break. If something isn't working, think about why, and try another angle or method.



Pull it out just a bit more to see the rear light connector and separate it from the panel.



This is the backside of the light connector after disconnection:



This is the backside of the 12v auxiliary power connector. Pull the panel a little more, straight out, until you can reach where the electrical connects into the 12v auxiliary power (cigarette lighter) and disconnect it.



With all screws gone, and all connectors disconnected, you just need to finesse the side panel out a bit at a time, taking as much time as you need in order to think about the things causing it to get stuck. You'll have most resistance on the right side of the panel nearest the front--the area that underlaps the front side panel that goes all the way to the door. If you have godlike patience, you might consider taking the back seat left side trim panel off all the way to the door. I do not, and I found that if you just lift up on that door-area panel to give a little more space, you can finesse out the left load space panel.

And here's your panel:


You're done! It'll look like this:


This is the prerequisite to installation of the integrated compressor, which I just installed. I might follow up with a thread about how to the compressor in the 90, reassemble the trim, lessons learned, etc if there is interest.

Cheers!

K

 

Funnily enough, I tackled mine today and confirm that is the exact way to do it. My install fell at the last hurdle sadly as when I went to connect the plugs to the module and fit the cover the module had a missing socket for the small plug. I had noticed that the box of goodies had been opened and resealed when I collected from my dealer so had already checked they were all present but would not have thought of check the integrity of the module. Now for the hassle of getting the dealer to swap the part.

Missing socket far left.

Missing socket far left.

 

Ohhhhh mannn Bill! That sucks! Was it the connector at the end of the wire it was it the pins that were messed up? I can only imagine the frustration.

The hardest part for me was getting the dang auxiliary connector to reach the back of the left panel while fumbling with it about 1.5 inches away from the bracket. They make such a big deal out of making sure you have enough slack at the top so you can connect the module but then you’ve gotta do a nutty amount of gymnastics to get the bottom connector to connect.

 

You are absolutely right, the cable to the power socket is really short and difficult to reach. It was the socket within the pump module that was missing, no sign of it, so I am sure it was not there when the box was sealed.

 

Yikes, sorry buddy. Must be super frustrating. Hopefully the swap out with the dealer goes without a hitch.