Question for the group. I swapped in premium LED headlights that I bought off eBay and programmed CCF using suggestions in the forum. However, the DRLs are a bit funky...

Driver: low/high beam work; DRL squares work; halo never work
Passenger: low/high beam work; DRL squares initially come on when unlocking car and starting car but then turn off; halo never work

Is this consistent with the DRL failures that you guys have been experiencing in this thread? I'm wondering whether the lights I purchased have busted DRLs or if something with CCF programming was slightly off. Thx!

 

I am sorry to report to you that this was the reason my 3 headlamps were replaced....the halo stopped illuminating. I watched a YouTube video from PowerfulUK where they disassembled a headlamp to illustrate that the halo is powered by 3 tiny LEDs that appear to be prone to over heating. At present there is no replacement available and the headlamp assembly was sealed in such a manner that heat guns and pry tools were needed to open it. In other words, engineered so that it cannot be serviced.

 

Yes, this is exactly what happens when they go bad. Usually they come on for a few seconds when you unlock it, then they turn off and stay off. You will need a new headlight. If you're out of warranty, a new headlight is about $3500 a piece, or you can buy a replacement LED circuit board from Powerful UK if you are willing to take apart the headlight. As stated above, they aren't designed to be taken apart, but they can be and as long as you seal everything up properly, you shouldn't have a problem.

https://www.powerfuluk.com/collectio...efender-l663-1

 

Have a bad RH halo cluster so purchased Gap IID to turn off the left side halo. Changed MultiCAN-679 HeadlightsVariant : 678. From Headlight_Variant_Mid_C to Low_C but it didn’t turn off the LH halo. Is there a different setting?

 

Well, hello!
My passenger DLR is out. My dealer wants $3,500 for the headlight assembly and $500 (give or take) to install and "program" it. So, I ordered the LRDL663-Module-V3 from Powerful IK Ltd for $50. It just arrived. I just got done spending $4,000 on appropriate maintenance at 59,000 miles, so I'm going to give it a shot. Today is the day I become an expert on disassembling a headlight assembly. When I was picking it up from the dealership, I thought I noticed the side marker part of the assembly was out too. I'll need to check that out first. But, either way, this thing is coming out today. Let's see how it goes! I'm going to get to the bottom of it or pick up a LKQ assembly on my way to family Thanksgiving 4 states away!

 

Only my main headlight worked on the passenger side. Okay, so, 4 hours later, I removed my grill for the first time, removed my headlight assembly for the first time, figured out how to take the damn thing apart, replaced the DRL LEDs, put it back together, tested it, and the side markers AND the DRL worked perfect. So, 45 minutes later of digging all the sealant out of the headlight, I caulked it with some FLEXIBLE window and trim caulk and put everything together. I made $1,000 an hour today tax free.

Cut the sealant out FYI. once you get enough of it sliced with a utility knife or another tool, you can pry it apart pretty easily. Just need to find all the corners. Good luck all! The next damn time this happens, I'm getting it done in 3 hours.

 

This is awesome! Would love to hear more about how you took it apart, tips/tricks, and what you did to clean up the sealant and button back up the headlight assembly.

 

Okay, upon request a little more description about how to do that successfully:
First, find a youtube video that shows you how to take off the grill. Do a better job than the video though . You only need a couple star screwdrivers, a couple sockets, and a 2 foot socket extension (or similar device) for this project. When taking off the grill, take off each of the 8 molded "clips" on the sides of the grill one at a time. From the inside, push the little nub thing and pull that part of the grill out. With help from the back, "unclip" the molded bump/clip and pull from the front. That includes way down in back (hence the 2 foot long prybar device).
Taking the headlight out is easy, again with the same "grill" youtube video.
Taking the headlight apart is a little more tricky. Heat doesn't help. The two halves are connected with a flexible adhesive like a butyl caulk. Using a sharp utility knife and perhaps a thin, sharp tool like a tiny, strong phillips screwdrivers, cut through this adhesive including the areas where you can't see it but you know it is down there. Don't worry about scratching up or damaging the plastic between the two headlight halves. When you get enough out, you can pry the headlight open - and see the adhesive you missed - and eventually it comes open easily. I broke a few pieces when I did it and it went back together just fine.
Then, take the headlight assembly apart (oh, after receiving the LED part of course - again, there is another video out there, but it is easy). Be gentle with the wires and the clips that connect them. They come off easy when you manipulate them the right way. Before replacing the LED, you need to use your utility knife, a razor blade and a regular size regular screwdriver to remove 90% of the old adhesive. Removing the adhesive took me about 30 minutes. Then, get everything clean (preferably with air - I used my leaf blower). Replace the LED only touching the side of the circuit board, and put the parts back together inside the light assembly. You may want to test it before putting the adhesive on. Just place the two halves together and put the headlight back in the car. Start, and put it in drive. Lights on?
Put some FLEXIBLE household exterior trim caulk where the old adhesive used to be. Don't put "too much" on, but you need to get enough. You may need to take this apart again. The caulk needs to seal at the bottom of the channel all the way around or the headlight will get foggy with moisture. Snap it back together. Then put your car back together.

 

so is the LED's overheating the reason behind lowering the wattage to them on the gap iid tool?

just curious as ill do it if it helps save me $$ on lights.

 

Yeah -- I don't think anyone has confirmed this is true or proven to extend the life. It's a theory though. I think it's simply luck of the draw, maybe related to ambient exterior temperature, or temperature differentials over the life of the unit. Quality of the circuit boards. No one really knows. I have a 2020 that has been in service since Jan 1 2021 and no burnouts on the headlamps LED's yet. Burning brightly.