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Headlight failure (led ring/DRL)

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Old Nov 28, 2025 | 10:28 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by exit1200
This thread along with the 2 PowerfulUK videos (grille removal and headlight disassembly) helped me greatly. It took almost no time to remove the front grille & trim and the entire headlight. Where it took time was separating the actual headlight from the lens. That took me about 2 hours. I was determined not to break anything or warp the lens by yanking on it, so I took my sweet time cutting the adhesive and eventually used pry tools to help me separate it. Also, cleaning out all the adhesive took time but a major cheatcode is to use linoleum tools like in the photo attached which worked very well.

Here are some thoughts:
- You don't have to remove the large heatsink on the back of the headlight. Functionally that does nothing for access. If you want to get it out of the way while you remove the lens it's easy to put back on.
- If you have the washer jets, you can easily detach the hose. Either clamp it or keep it pointed up or it will just continue to pour out washer fluid.
- Rubberized work gloves are good for when you're working on the lens separation.
- Separating the harness to the front grille is all about the grey notch on the back of the harness. You have to retract it, then push down to get the harness to separate.

My main observation after getting it all back together is the LED chip I got from PowerfulIK seems *slightly* dimmer than the one that comes in the Defender headlight. Nothing to worry about though and you'll eventually forget. I used the caulk strip in the photo below and will report back in a couple months if vapor appears or not.


Fantastic write up here. Attempted today. I hope I got my headlight properly sealed again afterwards. It took me 4 hours….

did a video for people who may want more end to end. Your photos were so helpful!

 
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Old Nov 29, 2025 | 03:16 PM
  #172  
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Saw you put glue (??) where the underside of the chip is mounted to the aluminium. I assume for a reason?
Excellent video!
 
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Old Nov 29, 2025 | 07:24 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Sir Lands-a-lot
Saw you put glue (??) where the underside of the chip is mounted to the aluminium. I assume for a reason?
Excellent video!
It’s Thermal Grease. While there was none in there previously it comes in the kit from PowefulUK. So seems like good thing to use between the chip and the heat sink it sits in. Help transfer heat and promote cooling.

So happy to get this done the other day nice seeing both lights back to normal!
 
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Old Nov 30, 2025 | 12:47 AM
  #174  
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Just FYI. My 2021 P400 in NZ just had the driver's side DRL fail. It was replaced free of charge under warranty (I purchased the extended Land Rover warranty)..

Great service from Archibald and Shorter Greenlane.

 
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Old Nov 30, 2025 | 01:46 PM
  #175  
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My 2022 P400 failed about 2 weeks ago. I just bought a used one off Ebay for $550. Fairly simple to replace. I'll probably try and fix the old one and have it as a backup.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2025 | 04:02 PM
  #176  
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Enjoyed your video Ponder! Thanks for posting. Made me wish I had made one. Today is 3 months from my repair, and no signs of condensation yet, and DRL is still fully functional so it appears to be a good fix. I hope the same for you.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2025 | 09:11 AM
  #177  
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'[QUOTE=ponder;940494]Fantastic write up here. Attempted today. I hope I got my headlight properly sealed again afterwards. It took me 4 hours….

did a video for people who may want more end to end. Your photos were so helpful!'




Any tools you wished you had to make the job easier?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2025 | 11:15 PM
  #178  
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[QUOTE=SpyHop;940598]'
Originally Posted by ponder
Fantastic write up here. Attempted today. I hope I got my headlight properly sealed again afterwards. It took me 4 hours….

did a video for people who may want more end to end. Your photos were so helpful!'
Originally Posted by ponder



Any tools you wished you had to make the job easier?

Nope. With the trim pieces I had, torx screws, long and short screw drivers; the big unlock was the clear items that @exit1200 mentioned. The linoleum cutter, heat gun, and I used a slightly different sealant - but all the same.

if I wasn’t rushed at the end; I probably would have used goo gone or something to really clean off all the old sealant. However hoping it’s all good with that deep clean.

and agree with other peoples comments above. Warrant coverage is best; however I’m out of warranty and didn’t buy extended warranty could have bought another light, still pricey. And it’s nice to know that in fixing it, for now saving parts from a land fill, especially since the whole light is still good, with just a chip to be fixed!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2026 | 12:23 PM
  #179  
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wanted to add to this -

I own a 2022 p300 with 42k miles that went out of warranty a little over a month ago.

noticed the halo on my driver's side headlight wasn't working this morning. called up the dealer that I have used for service and explained the situation. they reached out to corporate and I am currently getting the headlight replaced for 10% of cost ($220)
 
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Old Feb 6, 2026 | 01:50 PM
  #180  
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I would take that deal too.

Originally Posted by philca
wanted to add to this -

I own a 2022 p300 with 42k miles that went out of warranty a little over a month ago.

noticed the halo on my driver's side headlight wasn't working this morning. called up the dealer that I have used for service and explained the situation. they reached out to corporate and I am currently getting the headlight replaced for 10% of cost ($220)
 
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