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one other important note. if you are adding any subs and using the oem source running through the oem dsp you will have an amplified engine noise coming through. more powered subs will make that engine sound much more noticeable. all defenders have this programmed into the dsp and not something that you can disconnect.
my system has various sources and a digital input to my aftermarket dsp which bypasses the oem dsp. if i use carplay or sirius which is an oem source i hear the fake engine noise coming from my subs
only way to get rid of it is to code it out. Lots of guys are adding hidden features with coding. those that are providing that service have the tools and ability to code out.
i am planning to code mine out but closest installer is a couple hundred miles away.
not a huge deal as i have separate digital sources but will get it done eventually
If you ever make that trip to SoCal to code out! Hit me up! I have that other Defender that Bing did before yours. Id love to take a listen if possible.
you're the reason i pulled the trigger with the full system and Bing for the install. Saw his FB build log of your Defender and finally got some confidence in a shop to do the build. Every other shop said they could do it but no experience
coming down to Socal but furthest would be OC.
if ever using the oem source is usually kids in the car and the subs a bit loud on. If it was easier to code out i would be done but right now im dealing with it
Originally Posted by Tranv117
If you ever make that trip to SoCal to code out! Hit me up! I have that other Defender that Bing did before yours. Id love to take a listen if possible.
you're the reason i pulled the trigger with the full system and Bing for the install. Saw his FB build log of your Defender and finally got some confidence in a shop to do the build. Every other shop said they could do it but no experience
coming down to Socal but furthest would be OC.
if ever using the oem source is usually kids in the car and the subs a bit loud on. If it was easier to code out i would be done but right now im dealing with it
Huge difference once its done. If youre using Bluetooth for phone calls so that will switch over to the OEM system and the bass output gets super annoying.
one of my bigger issues is the difference in volume from oem and Amas. Oem being much lower and when a call comes in you have to crank up the volume. have to remember to turn down before switching to the digital source.
i had called Garretts referral in LA for just the coding and he wanted to charge 800 bucks just for that. i have a v8 and have majority of the features. Garrett said it would be significantly less if he did.
like to get it done but not paying 800 and non plans to drive down to SD.
Bing said he might just buy the tool. that would be ideal
Originally Posted by Tranv117
Huge difference once its done. If youre using Bluetooth for phone calls so that will switch over to the OEM system and the bass output gets super annoying.
Check the auto-hold setting. It can be set to always be on or only when you come to a hard stop. When auto-hold is engaged (it will indicate this in the instrument screen) auto start does not activate when you lift off the brakeyou have to tap the gas pedal to move forward again which is not good when driving in heavy traffic. try to avoid hitting the brakes. Go to the settings screen to see if it is set to auto-on
I cannot figure out how to adjust the auto-hold setting. Nor can I figure out how to disable it. Im assuming by Auto-Hold setting, this is when the green Hold lights up on top of instrument cluster when you come to a stop?
where specifically in the settings is this Auto-Hold setting adjustment?
I finally did just front speaker updates and want to share my experience.
My biggest issue for me is that basic Meridian sound in D90 was stuck all together in the middle: no clear high note or no bass. Just all stuck together in the middle with lots of rattle.
My goal isn't to make it super high end system. Just par with my 2014 Macan Bose would be enough to live with.
So I started searching all just for speaker upgrade.
As Helix's new plug & play speaker line, Compose which won fairly reputable award 'EISA Best Product 2023-2024 in In-Car Integration', I looked into this. https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h...akers/compose/
They have 3 level of speaker lines and great thing is they make vehicle specific speaker mounts for their speakers so it's true plug & play:
• i7 - higher end line made in Germany, various sizes, only in 3 ohm
• i5 - middle tier but only make tweeters and 8" mid-bass woofers, all in 3 ohm
• i3 - solid good quality speakers, various sizes and mostly in 3 ohm but 6.5" comes in 2 ohm which is important.
I went with i7 tweeters, 6.5" mid-bass woofer (3 ohm) and sound deadening and a local shop who did my 2 other cars (Mini Cooper and 911).
My fear was using 3 ohm speakers on 2 ohm amp and shop assure me it'll be fine with volume level I'm listening to.
First, overall sound quality improvement was much better than expected. I gain missing high and mid-bass.
I def. lost some volumes but it's not like using 4 ohm speakers (you lose pretty much half of volume level with 4 ohm). Maybe I had to turn 10% more volume to get the same level I was listening to.
• i7 silk dome tweeters helped to bring clear, natural warm tone.
• i7 mid-bass woofer helped to bring missing lower frequency and refined lower tone.
• Sound deadening eliminate rattle completely and made sound tighter.
Installation was complete plug&play with 3D printed JLR specific mount so easy to install stock back on.
For pricing, I paid $1820 for front install but if you use i3 (save about $600 from i7), DIY install with JLR specific mounts (save 240 in speaker installation and another $300 saving for sound deadening installation), it's pretty solid upgrade for about $800 budget.
I have next installation lined up and blow list is my next stage (early June):
• Front mid (as we have 3" mid range, Helix wasn't an option so I'm going with Blam Signature in 3 ohm)
• Rear i3 tweeters, i3 woofers (in 3 ohms to keep balance with front)
• Sound deadening on rear panels (Defender 90)
• Helix V Twelve amp (I really don't think I need it but just because I got great deal on the used one, I'm installing it)
Just wanted to share DIY option for under 1k budget (i3 tweeters, i3 6.5" 2 ohm mid-bass woofers, sound deadening) to transform our base Meridian sound system.
Even with rear speakers and sound deadening, total cost will be under 1.5k.
I finally did just front speaker updates and want to share my experience.
My biggest issue for me is that basic Meridian sound in D90 was stuck all together in the middle: no clear high note or no bass. Just all stuck together in the middle with lots of rattle.
My goal isn't to make it super high end system. Just par with my 2014 Macan Bose would be enough to live with.
So I started searching all just for speaker upgrade.
As Helix's new plug & play speaker line, Compose which won fairly reputable award 'EISA Best Product 2023-2024 in In-Car Integration', I looked into this. https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h...akers/compose/
They have 3 level of speaker lines and great thing is they make vehicle specific speaker mounts for their speakers so it's true plug & play:
i7 - higher end line made in Germany, various sizes, only in 3 ohm
i5 - middle tier but only make tweeters and 8" mid-bass woofers, all in 3 ohm
i3 - solid good quality speakers, various sizes and mostly in 3 ohm but 6.5" comes in 2 ohm which is important.
I went with i7 tweeters, 6.5" mid-bass woofer (3 ohm) and sound deadening and a local shop who did my 2 other cars (Mini Cooper and 911).
My fear was using 3 ohm speakers on 2 ohm amp and shop assure me it'll be fine with volume level I'm listening to.
First, overall sound quality improvement was much better than expected. I gain missing high and mid-bass.
I def. lost some volumes but it's not like using 4 ohm speakers (you lose pretty much half of volume level with 4 ohm). Maybe I had to turn 10% more volume to get the same level I was listening to.
i7 silk dome tweeters helped to bring clear, natural warm tone.
i7 mid-bass woofer helped to bring missing lower frequency and refined lower tone.
Sound deadening eliminate rattle completely and made sound tighter.
Installation was complete plug&play with 3D printed JLR specific mount so easy to install stock back on.
For pricing, I paid $1820 for front install but if you use i3 (save about $600 from i7), DIY install with JLR specific mounts (save 240 in speaker installation and another $300 saving for sound deadening installation), it's pretty solid upgrade for about $800 budget.
I have next installation lined up and blow list is my next stage (early June):
Front mid (as we have 3" mid range, Helix wasn't an option so I'm going with Blam Signature in 3 ohm)
Rear i3 tweeters, i3 woofers (in 3 ohms to keep balance with front)
Sound deadening on rear panels (Defender 90)
Helix V Twelve amp (I really don't think I need it but just because I got great deal on the used one, I'm installing it)
Just wanted to share DIY option for under 1k budget (i3 tweeters, i3 6.5" 2 ohm mid-bass woofers, sound deadening) to transform our base Meridian sound system.
Even with rear speakers and sound deadening, total cost will be under 1.5k.
You could've used 4 ohm tweeters, as all Meridian tweeters are 4 ohms. The mids and woofers are 2 ohms on Meridian and Meridian Surround systems. Meridian Signature systems exclusively use 4 ohm speakers. You can probably get away with using 4 ohm speakers with the stock amplifier, as they're all significantly more powerful than advertised. (400w Meridian has a 600w amp, 700w Meridian Surround has a 1,280w amp, and the 1700w Meridian Signature in Range Rovers actually has a 2500w amp).
I've attached below a spec sheet on the Meridian system from when the first-generation Evoque came out, which was the first JLR product to use Meridian sound systems. The speakers are the same today as they were back then.
You could've used 4 ohm tweeters, as all Meridian tweeters are 4 ohms. The mids and woofers are 2 ohms on Meridian and Meridian Surround systems. Meridian Signature systems exclusively use 4 ohm speakers. You can probably get away with using 4 ohm speakers with the stock amplifier, as they're all significantly more powerful than advertised. (400w Meridian has a 600w amp, 700w Meridian Surround has a 1,280w amp, and the 1700w Meridian Signature in Range Rovers actually has a 2500w amp).
I've attached below a spec sheet on the Meridian system from when the first-generation Evoque came out, which was the first JLR product to use Meridian sound systems. The speakers are the same today as they were back then.
Thanks for sharing the specs. Actually I forgot to mention all Helix Compose tweeters are 4 ohms. Rest of them are 3 ohms except i3 5.5 and 6.5" which have 2 ohm option.
As Helix was my speaker choice as so far, that's only one makes plug and play speaker adapters. After I got an used Helix V twelve amp, I could use any speakers but just like the idea of vehicle specific mount plates from Helix.