Need oil change advice
TReK
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 1,982
From: Whidbey Island, PNW
I’d use the pump unless for whatever reason you already have the under trays off the Defender. BTW on most LR’s, It’s been the JLR book process since 2010.
TBH, I think the mitivac / vacuum approach is probably better at removing any crap left in there than gravity. Drain plug isn’t always at the lowest part of the sump and oil remains in the sump when draining on most cars.
TBH, I think the mitivac / vacuum approach is probably better at removing any crap left in there than gravity. Drain plug isn’t always at the lowest part of the sump and oil remains in the sump when draining on most cars.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 928
Likes: 866
From: Southern Florida
To each his own, but…
Of course JLR will do it the quickest way for their techs to get the job done, with the least parts coming off. Less time = more profit. That’s business.
Conversely, I believe that when the head pressure, volume and weight of the oil being dumped all at once by removing the drain plug will forcefully push any sediment, debris or whatever is lying on the bottom of the oil pan out of the drain opening more forcefully. And I also elevate the rear a few degrees so that the drain plug opening is surely the lowest part of the sump. Where the end of the 1/4” tube from the MityVac rests after insertion, it is doubtful that it will suck up every square inch of the bottom of the oil pan. That’s physics. Additionally, we’ve all read instances of some owners using the vacuum method measuring the amount removed and not equaling the total volume put in, which can lead to overfilling. Not a good thing. Unless the oil sump is transparent, or someone has
X-ray vision, it’s a guess where the end of that tube sits after insertion. Did it curl up? Did it hit bottom? And after a few recent posts of vacuum method users in a panic because the tube got ‘stuck’, I’ll be the caveman and do it the tried and true way. MityVac users may disagree, but to each his own. I’m not a gambler, I like the sure thing. Vac away.
Of course JLR will do it the quickest way for their techs to get the job done, with the least parts coming off. Less time = more profit. That’s business.
Conversely, I believe that when the head pressure, volume and weight of the oil being dumped all at once by removing the drain plug will forcefully push any sediment, debris or whatever is lying on the bottom of the oil pan out of the drain opening more forcefully. And I also elevate the rear a few degrees so that the drain plug opening is surely the lowest part of the sump. Where the end of the 1/4” tube from the MityVac rests after insertion, it is doubtful that it will suck up every square inch of the bottom of the oil pan. That’s physics. Additionally, we’ve all read instances of some owners using the vacuum method measuring the amount removed and not equaling the total volume put in, which can lead to overfilling. Not a good thing. Unless the oil sump is transparent, or someone has
X-ray vision, it’s a guess where the end of that tube sits after insertion. Did it curl up? Did it hit bottom? And after a few recent posts of vacuum method users in a panic because the tube got ‘stuck’, I’ll be the caveman and do it the tried and true way. MityVac users may disagree, but to each his own. I’m not a gambler, I like the sure thing. Vac away.
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