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Removing tailgate studs

Old Aug 26, 2024 | 03:33 PM
  #1  
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Default Removing tailgate studs

At the ~20 minute mark in @PowerfulUK's

... Simon hammers out 2 screw studs in the tailgate. Has anyone else successfully done this?

I've tried a 2.5lb hammer, a 2x4 with a metal plate screwed into it, and a heat gun. Nothing seems to loosen it.

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Old Aug 27, 2024 | 07:08 AM
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I recently installed the hi-lift jack carrier. I used a dead blow hammer and a 2x4 (like you) and had to pound the living hell out of it to get the stud out...but it did come out. I think using the dead blow hammer made the difference...I started with a 3lb sledge hammer with the 2x4 with no luck. I was a little timid on hitting it at first but after a while I really started waling on it with the dead blow. I did loosen the nut and made it flush with the stud to have more surface area to strike and protect the threads just incase I put it back to factory.









 
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Old Aug 27, 2024 | 08:24 AM
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Why don't you just remove the whole tire mount and then you can hammer it out without damaging the tailgate.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2024 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bgh20DEF
Why don't you just remove the whole tire mount and then you can hammer it out without damaging the tailgate.
The stud holds the tire mount to the tailgate. I didn't experience any damage to the tailgate with my "careful" force application.
 

Last edited by GCSchmidt; Aug 27, 2024 at 08:46 AM.
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Old Sep 4, 2024 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by GCSchmidt
I recently installed the hi-lift jack carrier. I used a dead blow hammer and a 2x4 (like you) and had to pound the living hell out of it to get the stud out...but it did come out. I think using the dead blow hammer made the difference...I started with a 3lb sledge hammer with the 2x4 with no luck. I was a little timid on hitting it at first but after a while I really started waling on it with the dead blow. I did loosen the nut and made it flush with the stud to have more surface area to strike and protect the threads just incase I put it back to factory.
Love the hi-lift jack carrier. I ended up going with @Saltek Motorsports's tailgate molle rack instead.




I finally was able to knock the studs out:
  1. Screw the nuts to the end of the studs so they're flush with stud tip
  2. Use a 2-4lb hammer
  3. Wear ear protection (seriously)
  4. tap slightly hard for probably about 10 minutes straight each
Interestingly, the constant tapping at ~half strength worked WAY better than trying to smash the hell out of the studs.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 08:18 AM
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Well, I almost fell in love with it. In fact, I'll probably be a customer anyway because I love the wheel cradle. As a guy who's removed that rear tire WAY too many times alone, I could definitely go with it as an "aid". But at about 26:50 he had the great idea of turning it into a ladder. Then I had the thought: why don't I just find a way to put a base on the bottom of my Lucky8 Rhino ladder?? I think I'll explore that option first. And, it seems the Hi-lift bracket for a Yakima basket would fit the Lucky8/Rhino ladder just right! Bueno, now to order the cradle.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2024 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GrouseK9
Well, I almost fell in love with it. In fact, I'll probably be a customer anyway because I love the wheel cradle. As a guy who's removed that rear tire WAY too many times alone, I could definitely go with it as an "aid". But at about 26:50 he had the great idea of turning it into a ladder. Then I had the thought: why don't I just find a way to put a base on the bottom of my Lucky8 Rhino ladder?? I think I'll explore that option first. And, it seems the Hi-lift bracket for a Yakima basket would fit the Lucky8/Rhino ladder just right! Bueno, now to order the cradle.
There are extra mounting points on the base of the Saltek Tailgate Rack that @Saltek Motorsports has mentioned will be a hosting point for future accessories. I'm hoping one option will include a wheel cradle. Because you're right... when you're changing the wheel by yourself, holy smokes do you want that additional support!
 
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