Tracking Defender issues
#81
Sorry to hear of your problems @peacharies . This is a VERY unique period in my several decades of owning cars. You can absolutely get rid of one of these for more than you bought it for if it doesn't have too many miles or obvious damage. If you recently got it, I would suggest you off-load it ASAP. The warranty is only 2 years and after that, all problems are on you. And no one will be having engine & tranny problems for a while (a few might, but most of the issues are still to come). Get rid of it ASAP. I would actually not take it back to the Dealer as you should get MORE when you turn it in. Crazy world, I know. Or, find out the value and make the Dealer pay it which I think will be tough. Then, I hope, you have the patience to order another one. It would be tough for me, I will admit, to go thru the wait again. They are great vehicles, but some of them were made on the wrong days of the moon (or whatever). And if you don't want a Defender, take the money and get something else. Good luck!
After waiting for just at a month for an appointment to do the recall work on the emissions part, my truck has been sitting for 3 days without them even starting. The dealer didn't have any loaners.
I'm quite over this truck and over JLR.
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GrouseK9 (06-15-2022)
#83
Do they check the charge in the AC system? A batch of 2021's came overfilled from the factory (with the D110 volume I believe) and caused this exact issue for a lot of people. The dealer may need to removed the refrigerant and then put back in the proper spec amount for the D90.
#84
Had my 23 D90 for about a week. The front speakers went out the first day, and typical Land Rover electrical issue - if you turn the car off for a few hours and turn it back on they usually resolve themselves lol. The dealer decided to replace the amp even though it started working again, but they weren't working again today. We shall see what they decide to do. Side note - this Meridian system sounds much worse then the Meridian in my 2019 Disco (both base Meridian's)
#85
So I bought a 2022 Defender 110 and drove it for about 8 months and 17,000 miles with no issue. I get a notice about the N627 recall.
I have the work done, now my tachometer is all over the place. It use to idle at 500, it now idols at 750. When I come to a stop sign and
take my foot off the accelerator, it would drop to 500 rpms. Now it stays at 1500, bounces to 1700, then slowly comes back down to 750.
If I'm out on the highway and I punch it to overtake another car, the RPMS stay up around 3500-4000 .... AFTER I let up on the throttle?
So I bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it has to "relearn" from the adjustments they've made. Given that I sell software with AI in it,
and based on everything I know about engines, I highly doubt this is the case. Has anyone else run into this? Seems like a vacuum leak of
some kind..
I have the work done, now my tachometer is all over the place. It use to idle at 500, it now idols at 750. When I come to a stop sign and
take my foot off the accelerator, it would drop to 500 rpms. Now it stays at 1500, bounces to 1700, then slowly comes back down to 750.
If I'm out on the highway and I punch it to overtake another car, the RPMS stay up around 3500-4000 .... AFTER I let up on the throttle?
So I bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it has to "relearn" from the adjustments they've made. Given that I sell software with AI in it,
and based on everything I know about engines, I highly doubt this is the case. Has anyone else run into this? Seems like a vacuum leak of
some kind..
#86
Sounds to me like you may have the "degraded hose clamp" issue..../s Very likely they didn't correctly clamp one of the four hoses. To make the PCV repair, they replace the main PCV diaphram on the upper part of the engine and 2x other's. The other two involve taking off a couple hoses and MANY folks are reporting that they weren't re-secured properly. Typically the Service shop blames "degraded clamps" but that's a laugh. It must be a challenge to get in there because all require a reseat of the hoses.
In this Link, post #48 - in the second picture, the green circle is the primary diaphram. The green arrow shows the top of the hose on the left. There's another on the right that's hard to see with the Air Exhaust in place. I suspect the right one, down is a PITA. I haven't dug in there yet, but if I had to put chips on the bet - I suspect the hose on the right isn't fully seated. As stated, others report this as the problem when they retrieve their Defender and it has symptoms like yours.
In this Link, post #48 - in the second picture, the green circle is the primary diaphram. The green arrow shows the top of the hose on the left. There's another on the right that's hard to see with the Air Exhaust in place. I suspect the right one, down is a PITA. I haven't dug in there yet, but if I had to put chips on the bet - I suspect the hose on the right isn't fully seated. As stated, others report this as the problem when they retrieve their Defender and it has symptoms like yours.
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XCELLER8 (08-03-2022)
#87
Halo and signature DRL not working on the driver's side for about a month now, scheduled service for it and waited a couple of weeks for an opening. There's no damage to the light it's just random LR electronics stuff in play here. Today was the day, brought it in for repair this afternoon. Waited for approximately an hour at the dealership then they sent me home with a loaner saying it would likely take a while longer. Received a call back maybe another hour after I got home, the dealer needs to order the part and nobody in the US has it, so it has to come from from the UK and will take at least a month. I have to bring the loaner back tomorrow morning and pick up my one-eyed Defender for another month of fun. I mentioned the seats are still clicking enough to drive me batty again but said nevermind let's just focus on the light before I get ticketed. Smh. I will say my dealer is still good so far, no complaints with the service.
Last edited by Chief65; 07-27-2022 at 04:56 PM.
#88
#89
2020 Defender X here. Just over 4,500 miles and a slew of problems so far.
- Front passenger side door jamb is fried. The door takes an insane amount of force to close. Dealer has looked at it multiple times and claims its the weather stripping meanwhile no other door is anywhere close to as bad.
- The auto-start-stop is super jerky. It has even stalled on me at a stop light. The truck put itself in park and shut off after the auto-start failed to engage.
- Random CarPlay disconnects where multiple phones fail to pair. The infotainment spams me with "Failed to connect" alerts. It will eventually start working again after the truck has been shut completely off and turned back on.
- The wireless key fob entry for the rear tailgate works about 25% of the time.
- Sometimes the cluster will fail to turn on for about 30 seconds after pressing the START button. When this happens, the infotainment screen turns on and it sounds like the engine is struggling to turn over.
- The front light sprays leak like there's no tomorrow when I spray wiper fluid to clean the windshield. They leak A TON all down the front of the truck and will eventually run down across whatever surface I'm parked at.
- When talking to Siri connected via CarPlay, the turn signal makes no click noise when it's on. WTF!
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ficklma1 (05-17-2023)