Hey @GavinC surfacing photos of the original lines on the original poster’s car here. Do the new lines you got (that you’re returning) look exactly like this, or did the design change? Based on the pics (you texted to our group) it looks the same to me. ?

 

One is OEM (the longer one with the two metal tabs for wiring and a metal pipe to click on ) and has a red o-ring. One is OE (Rein Automotive) and looks like it has a black O-ring under a protective shipping plastic cap. Other than the o-ring colors, they are the same part. Identical.

I''m leaving them in their sealed packets till I try just the o-ring swap so my picture is a bit potato-quality.

I was trying to figure out where to clamp the hoses. Both are encased in metal heat shielding by the looks of it. I'm struggling to see where I can crimp them.

The bolt is on the side of the turbo, not the rear as was thinking. Hopefully I can do this 0-ring swap from the top only.

 

 

These


were the original and newest at the time when I did mine in April of 25. Yellow o rings were original, orangey red were new.

 

If you just doing the o rings there is no reason to crimp anything. I don't think I lost more than a dribble when I did mine. It certainly was not a lot. I would not bother w the entire line. The end at the turbo was just a part of 8mm I think it was. Very simple. The one you access from underneath does not even to jack up the car, just lift the suspension and put a jack stand under it. The one from the top is super easy. Having done this a couple times it probably 10 min each. Worst case an hour for both. Get some good lighting too.

 

I just completed this repair.

I replaced both o-rings

• Remove the bolt
• Disconnect the lower pipe from the turbo. It is easy to get to.
• Swivel this up and replace o-ring
• Unclip one wire and one narrow bore metal pipe from the other hose.
• Disconnect this upper pipe from the turbo and finagle it up.
• replace the o-ring
• Everything goes back in reverse.
• 11Nm or 97 inch pounds on the bolt.

Thasks for all the helpful posts. Much appreciated

i will assess coolant levels over the next few days.

 

How much coolant did you lose in the process? Did you use clamps to pinch off any coolant lines? Did you have to top off the coolant level afterwards after the system burped itself?

 

Very little coolant spilled out. Maybe 100ml

No need to clamp anything

I did not need to top off coolant. Levels were fine. I did add a little the next day after the system burped just to max it out for ease of monitoring going forward.

The system does seem to burp itself giving erroneous low coolant messages in the process.the same happens during a leak.

I’ve done 100 miles today following the repair yesterday.

• Coolant level remains stable . Added a little today after the system burped and coolant light has not reappeared.
• Coolant leak is gone (dry where once there was wet)
• The smell of coolant has all but vanished.

I’ll be keeping a gallon of the OEM coolant in the car for the next few weeks just in case. But early indications would seem to suggest all is right with my coolant system.

Replacing the o-rings rather than the metal pipes is definitely the way to go. The metal pipes look like they’d never leak.

 

Glad I read through the whole thread. Picked up the O-rings at the dealer for $11. Curious how much the installation would cost by the dealer. I started taking off the skid plates to confirm where it way leaking, but all the work done was accessed from the top. I imagine if you look close enough or feel you can tell where it's leaking without taking off the plates, but if you drop something down there game over. Only tricky part is not actually seeing the bolt. removing the tubes, and putting them back in by feel. I used a 10 mm deep socket on the bolt. I also used some putty to keep the bolt secured to the socket while screwing it back in.

 

I’ve been told two figures from folks on FB

$410 and $1100 with two weeks at the dealer.

Diagnostic on this is simple. Reach in and feel. It was obvious on mine. Identical to the pictures the OP shared.

you can see where the pipes enter the turbo from below without removing the armor. Ypull see the coolant dripping down onto the corrugated oil pipe below.

Adding some sticky stuff to the extended socket to hold the bolt is a really good idea.

If you drop the bolt you’ve got to get the armor off to find it. That would be a pain.

getting the bolt to find its thread on reassembly is the trickiest bit. Doing it blind by feel requires a little finesse.


A few days on and about 300 miles later coolant levels remain unchanged.

The system has burped its last erroneous low coolant warning and aux de coolant from the saturated padding on the armor continues to diminish.