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On the Amigos, it should be a total joke. I’ve probably mentioned it before, but if you don’t have one, it’s worth the investment to get a Nanocom. Either that or a D2 specific reader will tell you if it’s a WSS or the shuttle valve. If it’s the shuttle valve, new one and Option B, and the WSS is pretty straightforward as well. I just went ahead with all new front hubs as they weren’t horribly expensive.
She's been happy the last couple months, but it's been leaking like the Exxon Valdez since I bought it and I feel bad about slowly spreading a quart of oil on the ground every 3k miles. It looks like a front crank seal and maybe an oil pan gasket, so I think I'll jump into this over the next month or so.
She's been happy the last couple months, but it's been leaking like the Exxon Valdez since I bought it and I feel bad about slowly spreading a quart of oil on the ground every 3k miles. It looks like a front crank seal and maybe an oil pan gasket, so I think I'll jump into this over the next month or so.
What do you call a Land Rover that isn't leaking? ....empty
Oil pan gasket was pretty straight forward. Hardest part was getting all the oily dirty muck off everything. The internals looked really good though, no sludge, the cam lobes I could see looked great and the cylinders still had visible cross hatching. Bottom picture doesn't look that exciting, but if you saw the oil pan before I cleaned it up you would understand...
Still leaking, albeit slower. I thought the bigger issue was likely the front crank seal, so onto that next!
Have you ever worked on a car and you didn't lose anything, nothing was rusted, you didn't smash your knuckles, and you finished faster than planned? Me either, until this afternoon. The fan clutch nut was loose enough I got it with a large adjustable crescent wrench and a hammer, crank pulley came off no problem, and the old front main seal popped out without too much trouble. It was rock hard which I think (hope) was the cause of my oil leak (well, the largest oil leak). Got everything back together and on my 20 min test drive nothing was spitting oil so I'm cautiously optimistic...
Well, we still leak, but no longer deepwater horizon leaking. The crank pully had some wear which I think is preventing the new seal from seating properly. I've read on here you can sleeve it, but the leaking has slowed dramatically so she's gonna stay as she is for now. It also looks like the valve cover gasket seals are leaking, I tightened the bolts a while back and recently checked their tightness so I think we're just going to wait.
Not a ton to report, she's been happy all winter. Tried to drive the wife's car when it snowed to avoid road salt (definitely a bit too protective of this thing...). Did the disco I wiper arm swap and I honestly really don't like the way they look... I know they have better pressure and you can go to Walmart for blades, but at this point none of us are driving these because they're practical, right? Probably gonna change them back haha
After a trouble free summer the SES light came on last week with P0455, "Evaporative control system - large leak detected". I was getting ready for some unpleasant troubleshooting but discovered that I hadn't tightened the gas cap, oops. Problem solved.
Since pictures are fun, our camper van's rear brakes had been grinding for a while and I finally decided to dig into that. It turns out that FCA uses small plastic caps to protect the slide pins which I've never seen on any other car. One of them had popped off at some point and the pin seized. Stupid design. The rotor looked horrible. I tried beating the pin out for about 30 minutes but ended up giving up and just buying a new caliper.
