I bought new castle nuts for the Terrafirma track rod ends since one of them was cracked. The castle nut measurement is M12x1.5 pitch.


Looking on online they were averaging £5-£8 ($6-$10) a piece. I found them at my local DJ Evans hardware store for 59p ($0.76) a piece so I bought 4 of them.

 

Two weeks ago I bought a remanufactured 150A alternator from eBay seller synergy auto parts for £90 + free shipping and I finally installed it today. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114446489655
My original 120A alternator was dying a slow death. The bearing had a grinding noise like it had sand in it and the voltage output was about 12.9 VDC constant.



Now, the installed remanufactured 150A alternator is putting out 13.97 to 14.06VDC.



I added a 23”/58cm length of 0AWG grounding cable from the alternator housing to the negative side of my Battery negative disconnect switch as part of my Continuing ‘Big 7’ cable install.

 

It’s almost been a week now and all seems great with the reconditioned 150A alternator. I’ve been monitoring the alternator Voltage output on my iPad with the UltraGauge Blue app & OBD dongle and the voltage is still around 13.7 - 14.1VDC.

Today I finally installed the steering wheel RH horn spring that I lost 2 years ago out my window on the motorway. I did this mod per the YouTube video. It keeps the horn buttons from sitting too high on the steering wheel...

 

I installed my DRL resistor ($18) and all 6 headlight clips ($15) that I bought on eBay.
The DRL resistor was easy to install by following the technical info PDF attachment. Thankfully the seller included the 2 mount clips and both bolts to install it in the LH side headlight area. I removed the jumper wire from the 2-wire connector and inserted it into the DRL resistor, reprogrammed the BCU with the Nanocom to turn on the DRL when the engine is running.
Works as advertised! Now I have front DRL without the Illuminated rear brake lights.






Added the headlight clips. I used the new screws at first but decided to reuse the old screws since they were longer and tightened securely.

 

Yesterday during my semi-annual inspection/maintenance on Myrtle I finally washed her, sealed around the windscreen with Captain Tolley, started installing both outside A-pillar cowls, and started on extending the breather tubes.

I changed the oil at 4K miles (119243 miles) but I did it differently this time. I added a whole bottle of Liqui-Moly to the engine oil to loosen up any possible sludge inside the engine, ran at idle for 15 minutes, drained oil/replaced oil filter/replaced air filter, and filled with oil. I’ll run the engine for another 200 miles (119443) and do the same Liqui-Moly actions that I did previously to see how dirty the oil is.
After reviewing quite a few Liqui-Moly user YouTube videos and reading other forums I’m a member on (Land Rover, BMW, and VW), this was the proper 2 part steps to clean out a petrol engine’s internal parts. Could be snake oil but we’ll see.
While looking at the magnetic oil sump plug, it was dirty but no thick metal particles sticking to it.



Looked around the engine bay to see any loose or missing hardware, any corrosion, any rubbing or burnt wires and any fluid leaks. Looked good!

Crawled underneath and wiped down the underside, greased all the tie rod ends and both drive shafts, shook the drive shafts (no play!), and used a crow bar on the steering arms, drag link and watts linkage (also no play!).
While underneath I wiped down my TF shocks and then adjusted from a 1 to a 3. Honestly, I can’t tell a difference at all with normal day to day driving on these 4 stage adjustable TF shocks. No Tixover Quarry 4x4 visit for me this past year so I can't truly test them out. The only off-roading I’ve done is dodging and hitting large pot holes around my area.

 

That magnet looks pretty clean. Glad all is good

 

I finally drove Myrtle after a month of having her sit during our Tier 4 lockdown. I kept a CTEK trickle charge conditioner on the battery so she started up just fine and drove fine.
It's been a cold & wet winter so I have a pile of parts ready to install. I don't have a garage so I'll continue to tackle these tasks once it semi-warms up...
- outer A-pillar cowl both sides
- power steering pump
- brake master cylinder assembly
- oil catch can (yes... another one!)
- 0AWG cable for starter cable replacement
- Warn winch cover
- front brake caliper assemblies
- 6mm tubing/pneumatic fittings to extend upwards the diff and gearbox breather tubes for wading; position under RH A-pillar cowl
- 2 front hubs
- dash camera front & rear
- exhaust straight pipe (mid silencer delete)

 

Sounds like my list for this spring

 

Walked out this morning and found Myrtle with a flat on the left front tyre. The side wall was all cut up. How that happened I’ll never know.
Ordered a 265/75r16 BFG KO2 on eBay from Discount Tire for $190 + free shipping.

 

Charged the battery after a month of sitting during the UK COVID lockdown. Now waiting on the LF tyre to be mounted and balanced.



btw... happy b-day to me. 51 years young.