But even if the engine detonates, you can sell the lamp guards, roof rack and brush guard and be back to square (probably with some cash in your pocket).

And pick up an OBD2 scanner if you plan on keeping/repairing it. Sounds like a good deal.

 

Where should needle be? I'm curious.. Mine is smack in the middle and doesn't move, idle or traffic.

Chris

 

This is an important point. Rovers have instruments that just don't "measure up" to what Detroit offered for years. The Rover stays put or just in a very narrow range. On my D1 the pointer crosses the lower boundary of the "normal range" at 130F. At 180F - 190F it is just under mid point. BUT - each Rover can be different, depending on wiring corrosion, etc. That is where the OBDII port comes in, it uses the a different sensor (on a D1) than the gauge. That sensor is scanned by the ECU and used to control engine processes.

If you are driving by the gauge, you need a frame of reference for it. A quick scan by a parts store can tell you what the engine is doing.

 

My Local Advance Auto Parts' OBD reader is ancient... It only reads codes, and I dont feel like buying a new one at a couple hundred bucks for a $500 car in a 'just in case' scenareo. Does AutoZone loan scanners? I've never really used them lol

 

If you can't get a parts store to demo one of their fancy models, another way to confirm your temps is to use an infra red thermometer. Point it at the thermostat housing. Does not matter that it is a $500 truck, it can overheat and ruin your new toy. It is very common for new owners to believe that as long as they are not all the way to the end of the gauge they are OK. The Ultra Gauge will display codes and reset them, it is $70. You may not be overheating, but with the factory gauge it is more of a guess.

But you have plenty of other things to keep you busy on a D1. Grease and lube everything - wheel bearings, swivels (CV joints), drive shafts, differentials, transfer case. If you come out clean you missed a spot.

Old rads are usually half full of calcium, can be rodded out and hot flushed by small indy rad shop for like $70 near me.

If you notice tach starting to act up, that is the alternator dying.

As for tranny service, it is a closed oil system. If you had run the engine for 75,000 miles and not changed to the oil, you'ld still change it. Tranny will take several drain and fills, because you won't be draining out the quantity inside the torque converter. Change filter also. Read the RAVE before starting, parts to move.

 

Hope I can find that kind of deal. That would make a nice donor truck, if nothing else. Congrats on the deal.

 

This picture was taken after 20min of driving, a 5min idle with the heat off. Reading 186F in case you cannot see it. TOLD YOU IT WAS FINE haha jk, also checked under the rubber mats in the back and rugs, no floor rot or rust to speak of. Just the latest quirk, is the fast clicking "one of your turn signal lights are out" noise is on...but constantly and only when my lights are off lol

 

PS an AT take Dexron IID fluid which is superceeded by Dexron III so you can use that.
You can buy it by the gallon at WM for about $11. Just for all the naysayers out there, WM does not own a refinery and buys from the same distributors as the brand names. The fluids they sell meet whatever spec is on the bottle, just like the spendy big brands.

If the trans was failing it will do so with the old fluid or with new fluid. I would not be afraid to change it.