So bad or possibly a short in the ALT or charging system? I saw that but was hoping more was controlled by the 100 amp circuit.

Under normal circumstances you just move the lever to the left or right as needed to engage and disengage the diff lock? Moving that lever does not extinguish the 'H' light.

Also what about getting it onto low-range? Thanks Buzz!!

 

Also, still can't find any O2 sensors in the system. Does anyone have a 94 D1 that can check? The exhaust guy in town says there is probably just one on a pre-96 vehicle. It almost looks like replacement pipe has been welded in where the sensor should be. Is there some reason to bypass the O2 system other than cost? Would it even run?

 

Some one could have shorted battery leads. If alternator had a 100 amp plus load shorted on it, it may not put out and you might need to change that as well (have rebuilt for $100, don't waste money of a big box store mass market rebuilt - they don't last). You can leave 100 amp guy out, and meter on both sides to ground for voltage. One side will read truck battery (assumes you hooked up something. Other side will read alternator, crank truck and see if that comes up to 14 or more. Then you can replace fuse link and try again to see if it charges battery. Battery should run everything in the truck if it has a good charge on it. Old battery is probably toast. Truck would probably run but keep error codes on without O2. transfer case shifter could be rusted and difficult to release. I would say $400 or less, you have a truck that runs, moves, and is worth that at the salvage yard or part out.

Fill it up with gas and the value doubles!

 

I meant parts truck, darn autocorrect

 

We knew what you meant Tweak! Thanks for all the help and advice guys. I think I'm going to offer like $250 and hope he says 'no'...

This was going to be a winter-rig but without headlights, windows (at least they are up), heater, etc I'm not so sure. At least the Diff-Lock is permanently engaged! ;-)

Thanks again, I'll post back with the verdict tomorrow. Matt

 

If it were closer to me I would ****** it up and make a trail rig out of it. The heck with making it roadworthy. $400 is better than a seized, wrecked, and destroyed rig around my neck of the woods.

 

Well guess you guys are going to have to get used to me asking a lot of dumb questions cause she's all mine now. He was pretty firm at $500 I told him I was at $250. The wrecking yard offered him $300 to come take it away. I matched the $300 and soon she will be leaving her mark on my driveway! Pictures and more to come. Thanks guys...I think. ;-)

 

You suck! I cant find a set of wheels for mine for that price. You'll learn to love the headache that thing is going to give you. Luckily most of the things that tend to be wrong with these are cheap or free to fix.

 

Go ahead and download the RAVE tech manuals for free below, you'll be starting with the electrical troubleshooting manual. And look through the tech sticky listing in the D1 part of the forum, lots of common repair work arounds and new-2-you high miles maintenance.

From what you have said, we need to deal with electrical issues early, so battery can be charged and you can start the thing and have lights. If you have a battery charger and new battery (or good used battery, $25 at junk yard); you can keep battery charged up while repairs are underway.

 

Whitefish was a hippy commune back in the day especially when compared to cowboy town Kalispell...... I now live in an area that is not unlike the current day Whitefish sans mountains. Whitefish was where I first found out that woman have armpit hair, forever ruined from that point on......

Good luck and there is an endless supply of answers here, some of them quite hilarious.....Savannah.