Hello there!

I have a 1997 Land Rover Discovery I SE7 with the 4.0l V8. It has 163,000 miles on it and I've been having a big problem lately that I can't figure out... Here it is....

So, I was driving it one day after putting in a brand new battery and my SRS light came on while I was on the interstate. After a little while, my brake light came on and my radio cut out. It then start to feel like it was dying for split seconds, almost like a "clutch kick" (pushing in the clutch and taking it back out real fast - it's also an automatic) was occurring. I pulled over and shut everything off for a minute and then it wouldn't turn back over. This was after putting in a brand new battery! So, I had it tested and someone told me the alternator was bad, fine.
I put in a brand new alternator recently AND another new battery (replaced under warranty) and now the darn thing is dead. Why? Nothing was left on and the stupid SRS light and brake light came on again while I was driving it last time so I parked it and after it has sat for a day, it isn't starting again.... Anyone, please, have any idea what's happening and how I can fix it? I'm literally out of ideas now. I was thinking "voltage regulator" but where is that and how do I replace it?

I had the alternator tested again after I installed that and it appears that it's a good alternator. I also know for a fact it's a good battery.

Thank you for any help!

 

You will need to use a volt meter, or take to a shop.

The fuse box under the hood has several key parts. At the front of the box are two cables that need to be clean and firmly attached. The "bolt in" fuses or fuse links are high current, and the largest one is a 100 amp that links the alternator to the battery. Without the fuses working, then the alterator won't charge the battery.

If your tach is not working, that is a sign that the brushes in the alternator are bad.

It is common for "new" remanufactured alternators to fail in short order.

 

My tach doesn't work but it never really did even before these things started happening.

So.... You're saying that it's a fuse that has gone out? The bolt in fuses under the hood, huh? I'll check those. But, could a fuse and a failure to charge the battery really caused the weird "clutch kicking" sensation I was getting?

If so, then maybe I didn't need to change the alternator in the first place and should've just checked those fuses. Also, are they special fuses or can I just buy some from a hardware store or something?

 

Auto parts store. When the alternator is hooked up right, and fuses good, at idle it will produce between 13.8 - 14.4 voltage across the two big terminals on the battery. As you turn on more things the volts will drop, but even wth AC, headlights, and wipers on you'll have 13.2 or better.

If the big fuse is out, the battery does not get the charging volts.

The voltage regulator is built into the alternator along with the brush set.

Some parts stores will test all this for free, others even loan/rent equipment, maybe even a meter. You can buy a meter for $5 and up at places like Harbor Freight, WalMart, etc.

 

So.... I just tried to jump the piece of $#!T and all I got was a repetitive "ticking" noise when I tried to get it to turn over. What's wrong with it now?! I just wanted to jump it to move it while I wait for a fuse to arrive. Does this mean something else is wrong if it won't even take a jump? It's a brand new battery!

 

Find the negative battery terminal. Follow cable down along radiator to where it bolts on frame. Clean and tighten. Find positive wire on battery and follow it down to the starter. Clean up terminal on starter and the small one that runs the solenoid.

 

if the tach is not working or int. the alt is not working, do you have the belt routed correct? could be spinning the alt backwards don't know that makes a difference but worth a look

are all 3 wires hooked to the alternator?

the click click click while trying to jump is cause the alt is not charging and by running the engine you are sucking every bit of power the batt has till it is stone dead, you need to charge the battery fully so you can diagnose or have diagnosed the charging problem, repeated jumping may kill cells in the batt and make it trash

 

I only unlooped the belt from the Alternator when I installed the new one. It couldn't be routed incorrectly....
I found that the wire with the plastic clip on the back of the alternator wasn't seated really well as it feels pretty loose. It doesn't really stay on very well. Any fixes for that?

I'm going to pull my battery, charge it, and check all of my wires and make sure they're all clean. What do you guys think the best solution for cleaning them is? Also, my 100 AMP fuse doesn't appear to be blown but I'll replace it anyway. Is it 9/16th's or 13/16th's?

 

So I pulled my battery to charge it and to check all of my grounds and stuff and.... Agh! One of the three things that you attach to the alternator? The long rectangle one that 'clips' into place? I had it on backwards! I hope this is what was wrong!
My 100Amp fuse is good and everything is pretty clean and in okay shape. Wish me luck!

 

Okay. I cleaned all of my wires and cables and everything is tight and correctly installed. I just put my freshly charged battery back into the Rover and had the alternator tested. It's pushing out 11.25 Volts so....it's bad. I just requested an address I can send it back to so hopefully this will fix the damn thing.
Thank you for all of your help and I'll reply once I get the new one installed and tested.

P.S. - The tach wasn't working when I put my battery in and drove it today anyway....